South Face C2 5.8

 
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Mt. Watkins


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
A Day in Heaven: IAD Winter Ascent of Mt. Watkins
Wednesday April 6, 2016 6:37pm
The last few months have been eventful, to say the least. A lot of hours spent at work, a lot of hours training for far too many objectives, a commitment to a bit of weight loss before the alpine rock climbing season and emotional stress after losing a friend. It would take forever to elaborate on every topic in detail, especially the premature departure of a friend. Aside from that, all the 'problems' are first world problems - the good kind! I am not complaining about being able to earn a bit of extra cash. Nor am I trying to whine about climbing, which for me is an exercise for coping with different kinds of stress; mental and physical. When an individual, in this case myself, has too many objectives on his mind, the riddle of prep is a good one to have. Being indifferent, not having the purpose or being held back by declining health would be a different story...

No matter if one is religious, following a cult or doesn't care at all, it is difficult to see a young, athletic and kind friend suddenly fall to an illness and perish. During the first hospital visit, the recovery seemed like a matter of time. A few days later, I got an email saying Edward will be taken off the life support and the best time to say good-bye is now. Shocking. The following day I was lucky to see him alive for the last time. We talked about the good times, with hopes that although in an induced coma, he will listen. As we discussed the days we shared hanging off different cliffs around the US, his oxygen saturation went up. Was it a coincidence or did he enjoy the conversation?

Although, I don't follow organized religion, I feel like there is much more to the words GOD, HELL, SOUL and HEAVEN. More than the common dictionary definition suggests. In my opinion, there is much more to the words MIND and CONSCIOUSNESS as well. I hope there is. A way to find some meaning in something sad, maybe? Self-deception? Possibly. I never believed that people die and their souls go to a perfect world where we mingle with the other dead relatives in perfect harmony. Of course only if the individual went to a man-made mass place of worship frequently, donated cash and asked another human, supposedly wiser and closer to the all-seeing being we call god, to pray for our forgiveness. I can't prove this is not the way things work, but yet to find a preacher of ANY religion with physical evidence to prove their fable has some merit. If the all seeing being is supposedly so kind, he wouldn't want the non-believers to burn in eternal hell, why would the god be so cruel? With an estimate of about 4300 religions worldwide, how can one be sure they are following the true path to heaven? Not sure if my way is any better, but to me the ability to have another day on earth is heaven, while wasting the limited time is as good as hell - meaning-less misery.

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Chris did a full on dyno to pass the aid crux...or maybe he is just po...
Chris did a full on dyno to pass the aid crux...or maybe he is just posing for the camera in the evening light :)
Credit: Vitaliy M.
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Half Dome from South Face of Watkins...is earth as nice as heaven? At times it is.


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Yup, it is a BIG wall


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Chris above Sheraton Watkins


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Cloud's Rest and some crazy clouds


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Spot Chris!


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Me ascending in a heavenly place (Photo by Brian Prince)


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I, Eddy and Adam in Indian Creek


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Ed sending the gnar in Yosemite


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Climb on Eddy!


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Brian, Cloud's Rest and Quarter Dome


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Moonrise over Cloud's Rest


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Tip of Half Dome during the magic hour :)


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Brian does what he does best...sendin the gnar through a waterfall. Things stopped being fun..a few pitches ago.


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The summit magic (Photo by a camera set up by Brian Prince) The real reward was snow covered hike to the valley which took forever in the conditions. Yes, it sucked.


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Way back from Yosemite had flowers all over the place. Couldn't resist stopping.

When people like Edward touch lives with their positive spirit, they leave their mark, making the world a better place. Staying with us for eternity. They influence us to spread the positive message, by word or by action, they influence us to be a better person. It is unfortunate he has not had a chance to touch more lives, but concentrating on the negative does not do the world favors. Life won't always be perfect. Unexpected and undesired things will happen to the best of us, so will the things we can't fully understand. It is important to remember the number of days we and our family members have left here on earth are limited, therefore they are precious. Well known characters like Jesus Christ and Muḥammad are likely worshiped in the modern times because of the positive message they carried during the limited time they had on earth. I did not live back than, so can't confirm how positive their message really was, but if the point of religion is to guide humans to be kind and forgiving, I am all for it. Unfortunately humans are humans and over the years used religion as an excuse to gain power, possessions, go to war and yada yada. Nothing is perfect and neither am I. Over the years I have said and done stuff I wouldn't want to admit to a good friend. I hurt those around me and myself with my actions and with my words. Controlling own fears and aggression is a good start, and maybe this is why climbing and the work I do in a daycare center for seniors is important for me after all? Maybe this is why I try to surround myself with people who bring out the best in me, which is also the reason why losing them is so harsh? As usual, more questions than answers and that much more reason to value each day, as there is no guarantee there will be another.

During the winter I did my best to rest from climbing rock and focused on ice, training at the gym and skiing, the alternatives I actually find super fun. When Brian proposed to do the South Face of Watkins in mid March, at first I got excited but than realized it will involve a lot more work than cragging at the Cookie Cliff, which was something I would be more psyched on at the moment. Climbing in good company is worth something and the season of climbing long routes is near, so I decided to suck it up and join the party. It was a great way to prepare for a trip to the Arrigetch, which Brian and I are planning for August. Turned out it was even more like the Arrigetch than we would want it to be. Majority of the cracks were running with water and we were shut down on the hope to free climb the majority of the route. For what it is worth, it was still great, with incredible views of Half Dome to the west and Cloud's Rest to the Southeast. Along with being an impressive rock face, Mt. Watkins has some of the best views out of all the walls in Yosemite that I have climbed. Majority of the day was fun thanks to the awesome company and I was happy that my lead block was the first. In the end of the day, with the upper cracks resembling a waterfall, Brian had hell of a time overcoming the challenges. As Brian approached the last overhang, Chris and I slowed our breath and hoped it is possible to do the last section of the wall while it is running with water, bailing from here would blow. Brian made it possible and we were excited to join him on top. The moon was bright, illuminating the outline of Half Dome and the surrounding hills, which was a wonderful treat in the end of the long day. But our day was not over, we still had A LONG WAYS back to the car. Seven miles could have been no big deal under different circumstances, but hiking through the snow made things complicated. Although most of the snow was frozen firm and Chris found a snowshoe track to follow, punching through was common and so was slipping on our ass at times. Restricting calories for a few weeks prior to this climb was catching up and half way down I wished for a magic carpet, or at least a warm bed. 23 hours after leaving the car, we stumbled back to the trailhead. The descent took seven hours! Lack of a campsite forced us to drive out of the park and by 5 AM I finally had the pleasure to crash out in the back of my car.

The morning was rough. Less than five hours of sleep apparently was not enough rest and my body felt sore from the effort. It brought a sadistic smile to my face - 'another day well lived.' Time spent pushing and exploring is what I consider living, in heaven. On such days it is not uncommon for me to call out to the higher power. For wisdom, strength, luck, protection or in attempt to free my mind of anxiety, to escape from distractions, so I could focus. Is god a higher power, or a metaphor for something within every living being, maybe a part of our conscience? Whatever it is, I consider this power a force which unifies humans. The true higher power does not divide us based on the label or the symbol of their religion. It allows us extra strength to deal with daily stress, preventing us from unleashing our negative emotions onto those near by. It is something that should remind us to treat our family with respect now, rather than wait till you the fabled heaven to do so. I hope it is something that will allow me enough self control to create, rather than destroy, to be an honest person, make more friends than enemies and ideally add kindness to the lives of others, as Ed did to mine.

  Trip Report Views: 5,776
Vitaliy M.
About the Author
Vitaliy M. is an annoying gym climber from San Francisco.

Comments
Todd Eastman

Social climber
Putney, VT
  Apr 6, 2016 - 07:23pm PT
That's a journey...

... thanks!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 6, 2016 - 07:43pm PT
Really well thought out, and from the heart.
Good job describing your spirituality, and questions of religion.
You are a good man V.
Thank you!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Apr 6, 2016 - 08:01pm PT
Excellent photos and writing Vitaliy. Thanks for taking the time to share not only the climb, but your thoughts as well.

Man, that was a full value day, no doubt.
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Apr 6, 2016 - 08:26pm PT
sorry for the loss and damn what a wild and perfect celebration of your friend.
stunewberry

Trad climber
Spokane, WA
  Apr 6, 2016 - 08:27pm PT
One of the best trip reports, and soul-searching exposes (don't know how to get the accent with this keyboard) on the Taco. Thanks.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Apr 6, 2016 - 08:29pm PT
The Arrigetch Peaks look fking awesome Vitaliy -> https://www.nps.gov/gaar/learn/nature/upload/arrigetch%20final%20report%20compressed.pdf
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Apr 6, 2016 - 08:38pm PT
Awesome climb and photos! Sorry for your loss.
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Apr 6, 2016 - 08:46pm PT
If pushing hard, suffering and exploring is your heaven then this summer should be eternal bliss!

Great photos bump
rincon

climber
Coarsegold
  Apr 6, 2016 - 08:47pm PT
The summit shot is spectacular!
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
  Apr 6, 2016 - 10:24pm PT
Awesome!
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
  Apr 7, 2016 - 06:18am PT
Hey, Mr. V., sorry to hear about your friend. I'm sure he would be completely thrilled about your ascent and thoughts. I was. Fantastic photos. Hope to buy you a brew some time. Peace.

BAd
Stewart Johnson

Gym climber
top lake
  Apr 7, 2016 - 06:40am PT
Proper!
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Apr 7, 2016 - 08:07am PT
Sincere condolences for the loss of a friend.
Sheets

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Apr 7, 2016 - 09:49am PT

Good photos, what camera do you use?

Hope to get down Tenaya canyon this fall and hit both Watkins and Pegasus this year. Not winter!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Apr 7, 2016 - 10:34am PT
I never tire of your trip reports, and I never tire of photos of the South Face of Watkins. Thank you.

John
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
  Apr 7, 2016 - 10:44am PT
Thanks for the inspiration!

skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Apr 7, 2016 - 10:55am PT
Like Mark Force said, thanks for the inspiration. Only in my wildest dreams would I be doing the stuff you are.

Hopefully, the years will diminish the pain of your loss, but not the memory of your friend. The mountains have provided clarity and solace to various events that have had dramatic impact on my life since before I was a teen. I've never left them for long. This, we seem to have in common.
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
  Apr 7, 2016 - 12:07pm PT
Another nice report V. I did this last January IAD style and it was totally dry but still quite difficult with a midnight top-out. Would have probably been much easier if I didn't get wasted the night before but that route is still pretty wild.
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Apr 7, 2016 - 02:01pm PT
climb on
shylock

Social climber
mb
  Apr 7, 2016 - 06:21pm PT
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Apr 7, 2016 - 07:03pm PT
Man Vittles, sweet destination and season, awesome pics, and rock solid prose and reflections on life, death, and what it all means.
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Apr 7, 2016 - 08:58pm PT
Nice TR - really sorry to hear about the loss of your friend

Time spent pushing and exploring is what I consider living
bpope

climber
Mountain View, CA
  Apr 8, 2016 - 12:39am PT
thanks for posting up, both the great trip report and great tribute. awesome words and photos. they resonate.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Apr 8, 2016 - 05:41am PT
Wow. So very awesome!

That route was very memorable for many reasons. Excellent pictures! Thanks!
snakefoot

climber
Nor Cal
  Apr 8, 2016 - 08:32am PT
great line, thanks for posting. I saw the aurora borealis from this route over the west horizon back in 2000. place is magical for sure.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Apr 8, 2016 - 09:05am PT
Good photos, what camera do you use?

Thanks, part of the time I use a Panasonic Lumix point and shoot and at times I use the Sony A6000 mirrorless. That's what Brian has too and what he used to get that really cool summit shot.

Survival your old thread about climbing it put this one on my list a while back. :)

Thanks all!
crøtch

climber
  Apr 8, 2016 - 02:47pm PT
Spectacular photos, Vitaliy. Thanks for sharing them. Sorry about the passing of your friend.

I spent 7 weeks in the Arrigetch over two trips. Hit me up if you need any beta.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Apr 8, 2016 - 03:32pm PT
awesome photos.

I wonder if Watkins is steep enough to jump. We never did it back in the day. We did jump the snot out of Half Dome, though.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Apr 8, 2016 - 03:40pm PT
V.... thank you for sharing.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Apr 8, 2016 - 08:13pm PT
I wonder if Watkins is steep enough to jump.

HA! Great question. It sure feels steep enough. But I know nothing about jumping. Would be a great triple link up for a jumper. El Cap, HD and Watkins :) When did jumping become illegal in YNP?
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Apr 9, 2016 - 10:17am PT
You're a manly man.

I mean that, not being rude. Great TR.

Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
  Apr 12, 2016 - 06:51pm PT
Very Inspirational Vitaliy. I feel that a hard day like you had is heaven on earth too! Its a feeling that stays throughout our lives in the real world and makes you want to come back to get another dose. I am sorry for the loss of your friend. Its a tough thing, death. Lost my brother late last year and your right, call your family now and let them know you love them!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Apr 12, 2016 - 09:31pm PT
Condolences, to you and to Ed's friends and family.

The death of a young person for no reason is an apocalypse. -- Eggers
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Apr 13, 2016 - 06:48am PT
Another fantastic adventure. Kudos.
Dr. Crush

Trad climber
Berkeley CA
  Apr 27, 2017 - 03:08pm PT
Amazing writing and spectacular photos.

Question: Do you reckon the route will be gushing water in a few weeks (week of May 8th?) I know it's a bit later in the season than when you climbed but there's been plenty of late storms this year. The 'yosemite high sierra' webcam, which shows watkins shows a bit of snow up on the summit. We'd really like to free climb anything 10d and under and would hate to be stuck aiding otherwise great rock.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Apr 27, 2017 - 03:35pm PT
Congratulations on pulling off such a big Big Wall in March! Not many even bother to try.

Very sorry about Edward's slow shuffle off this coil.

Loved this great string of pix, the thoughts you penned, and your entire attitude.

Have a fulfilling summer, V.
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
  Apr 28, 2017 - 06:59am PT
I enjoyed this the first time around, and enjoyed it again this morning. Vitaliy, your TR's are great and your adventures totally rock. I hope your 2017 season is as spectacular as your 2016 season was. Be safe, and please post more TRs.
cheers
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Apr 28, 2017 - 11:57am PT
Thanks for the awesome trip report. I remember Ed from that Indian Creek trip that the photo was taken. Oh man. That is such a tragedy.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Apr 28, 2017 - 02:39pm PT
Not sure how I missed this last year but I am glad it came around again like most of your excellent TRs.
Fine writing and an inspired alpine style ascent of a golden age classic.
Thanks for sharing your reflections and experience here again.
Cheers
Tom Patterson

Trad climber
Seattle
  Apr 28, 2017 - 02:46pm PT
Yak te pozhevayesh, Vitaly? (That was an attempt to be phoenetic with my Ukrainian...)

So...I always find myself asking, "What the heck do you mean you're an 'annoying gym climber,' when in fact, you are an inspiring rock climber?"

I love your own personal back story you've told, and continue to be inspired by your stoke on the rock, and your great way of telling stories.

Keep at it!
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
  Apr 28, 2017 - 03:41pm PT
Had the pleasure of meeting Vitaliy, a legend to me, for the first time last night for dinner! We met at Professor Limpingcrab's house. Vitaliy provided a fine dinner and its pretty cool that he's living in town now ! Great and Mellow person! You'd never guess about all his climbing feats! Looking forward to some cool adventures!
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Mt. Watkins - South Face C2 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Nabeel Atique