South Face, Mt. Watkins C2 5.8

Yosemite Valley, California USA

Currently 5.0/5

Avg time to climb route: 2-3 days

Approach time: 3 hours

Descent time: 5 hours

Number of pitches: 19

Height of route: 2000'

Overview

Mount Watkins is an adventurous off-the-beaten track wall with relatively moderate climbing. The route is mostly 5.10 or easier with a few aid climbing cruxes. The climbing is surprisingly good and the line follows big striking corners linked by exposed traverses. Because the long approach and descent it is ideally done light and fast – in a day or with one or two bivis. This route is hidden deep in Tenaya Canyon; no cars, tourists, or busses here! The approach is long for a Yosemite big wall but short compared to other walls that feel this remote. Today the route is seeing more and more free climbing action both by people who want to free the whole route and those who want to free the 80 percent of the climb that is 5.10+ or easier. This climb is harder than the Regular Route on Half Dome but easier than The Nose. It get's a 5.9 mandatory free rating to underscore that you want to be in good free shape. Often a 5.9 move avoids a tricky aid placement. Great training for The Nose in a day.

Photos - View all 57 photos of South Face as: Thumbnails | Slideshow