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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 18, 2018 - 09:01pm PT
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Yeah, gonna' try again. Last year I was beset by an unexplained illness that limited my climbing to a single route. So over the winter I was haunted by dreams of climbs that are still on my bucket list.
I did some gym training--the usual weight machines, etc.--then lost motivation. So, I was in touch with RKM who informed me that the Uriostes were at City of Rocks, and that I should come over and do some climbing and hanging out for a few days. Did so, and actually did some climbing and returned to leading the Sunday before returning home. Monday while driving home began feeling not too well, and with a sore shoulder. Tuesday, June 12, was spent contemplating my navel and subsequently went to the ER, where I was informed I was having a heart attack. Early Wednesday, had a Cardiac catheterization procedure, angioplasty, and a medicated stent placed in my LAD artery. Released to go home from hospital same Thursday, and told to take my meds and not to go climbing for a minimum of 2 weeks, but probably a coupe months to see how recovery went. Turns out that I've been having reduced blood to everything and all the illness of the prior years were "warning signs."
Earlier in the year, I had purchased my airline ticket for this trip, and being the stubborn sort, am still planning a trip but with reduced goals. So, as a precaution, had a stress EKG on Monday for evaluation of what I should and should not do. But cleared to resume full activities.
This is how well I listened to the advice to take it easy for a few weeks:
My plans for the Dolomite trip include a full day at Cinque Torri near Cortina and a warm-up trial to see how things are working again. Then a day trip on Grosser Falzaregoturm, but just the via Normale. That goes well enough, then the First Sellatower via Steger Route with RKM. After that, I'll evaluate what's possible.
Will keep everyone here posted about my antics. I fly out from Denver the 29th of this month.
BDC, a.k.a. Super Topo Village Idiot.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jul 18, 2018 - 09:33pm PT
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Hey Buddy! I loved those pics on FB of you climbing with Victoria👍 Sorry I called you a dirtbagger. Lol. Sounds like you got in there in the nick of time! I hope that catheterization shite holds well for you and you send🙏
Btw, they didn't try to blame this on bacon did they😡
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2018 - 10:02pm PT
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I need to eat MORE bacon! My lipid panel was off scale LOW! They prescribed some Lipitor, and I told them to look at the lipid panel. Primary caregiver said forget the Lipitor, as my lipids and cholesterol are nearly zero. It was a small calcification that they reamed out. Hope to see you and go climbing at facelift. My everyday BP is on the clinically LOW side, so was told to NOT TAKE the standard BP meds the hospitalist prescribed. My normal BP with no meds is usually 117/68. When resting in the doc's office last visit (after heart attack) was 109/62.
We'll have a bacon eating contest at facelift!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Jul 18, 2018 - 11:56pm PT
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You two are incorrigible! Long may it be.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Jul 19, 2018 - 02:50am PT
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I really liked the climbing on the Vajolet Towers. Not only that, the women who run the hut at the base allowed us to put our packs on the cable car at the bottom of the approach! Sweeeet!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jul 19, 2018 - 07:21am PT
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It’s so beautiful there that no matter what you climb, you will have a wonderful time. Looking forward to hearing about your trip.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2018 - 07:30am PT
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Whatever I do, it will please me. The only thing(so far) bothering me would be long and arduous approaches/descents. Guess I'm spoiled by thinking City of Rocks, and Joshua Tree?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jul 19, 2018 - 07:40am PT
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Ahhh...there's a fair bit of stuff in the Dolomites that have very short approaches as well...
The hike to the base of the Piz Ciavazes is only 15 minutes. Plenty of other stuff has tram/ski lift approach possibilities too.
Good times! Don't let Kim get too crazy...!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2018 - 08:46am PT
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I'm keeping that in mind! So far, just the Steger on First Sella Tower and maybe the Kostner dihedral on the Second are what we've discussed. Maybe we'll do the thumb on Funffingerspitze, too? Don't know until I know how my body is handling the stresses.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jul 19, 2018 - 12:42pm PT
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BDC
It's great to follow your TRs. My best wishes for the journey...
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
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Jul 19, 2018 - 02:25pm PT
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Yay BrokeDown.
Have a wonderful trip and see ya at Facelift.
Susan
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2018 - 02:31pm PT
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Susan-
Yes, I'll be there again! See you and Michael then!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jul 19, 2018 - 02:41pm PT
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Have a blast just being out there and enjoying the views, listening to the wind, and coming back at a gentlemanly hour to enjoy merenda and a hearty cena :)
Take lots of pics! I fly into Milan just about every winter, and haven't made it to Dolomites yet. If we end up doing a spring trip instead of a winter trip, Dolomites will definitely be on the agenda.
For inspiration, here are some pics from the local hill Grignetta in the pre-Alps (you've already seen my pics):
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/My-Italian-Christmas-2013-Grignetta-Bellagio-Lecco-Monza/t12260n.html
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 19, 2018 - 04:50pm PT
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Have a great time Brokedown. Worst comes to worst, there is always Venice.
Photos of you climbing a COR look like you're back in the game.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jul 19, 2018 - 06:45pm PT
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BDC, enjoy your pilgrimage - I’m certain you’ve earned it. Looking forward seeing the many photos.....a hardy Berg Heil to you.
Charlie D.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 20, 2018 - 01:07am PT
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Have a great time, Broke! You’re an inspiration! Was hoping to go back this fall but my wife is having some probs, maybe late spring now.
FYI, Venice is a zoo but the cognoscenti know how to work around them. Jess sayin’...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 20, 2018 - 08:02am PT
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Roger...great seeing you and Jan at Neptunes last night...kick ass in the Dolomites!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 20, 2018 - 03:33pm PT
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SuperJealous! Really would love to go so I'm very much looking forward to a TR.
Safe travels!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 20, 2018 - 10:21pm PT
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Glad to hear you're on the mend, Roger. Hope to see you again at Facelift, and I look forward to your report on the Dolomites.
John
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2018 - 08:13am PT
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I've lined up Enrico Maioni (Super Topo drunkfox ) as a guide for 2 days. Planning the first day at Cinque Torri to do some easy conditioning climbs, really in order to see how well I'm doing in my recovery phase. The a second day after we assess what my capabilities are and whether we should keep to the easier stuff for this trip. Possibilities are either the Via Normale on Kleiner Falzaregoturm, or the Via del Buco on the Kleiner Lagazuoi. Then later will have a few days with RKM operating out of Wolkenstein or St. Cristina.
Note added in edit: Just had a visit with primary caregiver to review results from stress EKG. Now free to resume all normal activities, including strenuous hiking and rock climbing. Missed "the big one."
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 21, 2018 - 10:48am PT
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You gonna be back I time for Vedauwoo sushi fest I’m the 10th / 11?
And when are we going to build that climbing wall in your barn? It’ll be the pride of county 8(?)
And of course, have a blast in The Dolomites!!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 21, 2018 - 12:40pm PT
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Brokedown: Best wishes for your Dolomites trip. I hope we have better Sept. weather there, than you have previously not enjoyed.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2018 - 12:46pm PT
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Jaybro-
Nope, to your first question. Wont be back to USA until 26 August.
I sold the ranch this past March, and now living in Loveland, Colorado. Closer to the Voo, though.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2018 - 12:48pm PT
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Fritz-
As things are working out, I'll have at least 2 days with Enrico, and another several days with RKM. Depending on the evil weather goddess.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 21, 2018 - 04:42pm PT
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It was great to see you and Jan at Neptune’s.
Have a wonderful trip!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 21, 2018 - 05:34pm PT
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Loveland eh?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2018 - 10:02pm PT
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Jaybro-
Yup. Loveland.
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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Jul 28, 2018 - 10:21am PT
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Sorry to butt in, but I’ll be in the Dolomites for a bit in the next week or so. I’m not a real climber, and don’t even have rock shoes with me, but can the Taco suggest some routes up to 5.6 or so, and/or via ferratas, that I should check out? It seems like Sella Pass is a good place to start.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2018 - 09:03am PT
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Well, here's something of an update on the trip. Managed to get one training climb in at Cinque Torri: Torre Quarta Bassa, via Normale.
After skipping a day, went back and tried Torre Lusy again; managed the first 2 pitches, including what may be the crux. Abseiled off after that. I hadn't counted on the one factor I was told to avoid after the 06/13/2018 Myocardial Infarction: altitude. I was totally wiped out by the slightly strenuous first pitch. Learned a lesson the hard way; one cannot by sheer desire, overcome the need for some recovery time after heart attacks. Big difference from doing a little climbing at City of Rocks and 6,000 feet, versus doing the same activity nearly 1300 feet higher in the mountains. Oh well, I made the trip and am having fun anyway.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Aug 19, 2018 - 09:32am PT
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Good to hear from you. Take care of that heart!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Aug 19, 2018 - 09:44am PT
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Awesome! Keep 'em coming!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2018 - 01:39pm PT
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Regardless of how the rest of this trip turns out, I still will be at Facelift. I simply needed more time to get fully recovered from the angioplasty/stent insertion. But cleared to hit the weight machines again, too.
Thx, Brian; RKM arrives here Tuesday; same hotel in St. Cristina.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Aug 19, 2018 - 02:00pm PT
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You got RKM away from his beloved Cortina? Fun!
Say hi to Sella pass for me!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2018 - 02:14pm PT
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Just a couple more pix from Dolomites.
These are from the first 2 pitches on Torre Lusy;
I was so wasted from the altitude issue, that I opted to bail after this pitch. The mind was willing, but I was totally unable to continue.
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John Duffield
Mountain climber
New York
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Aug 19, 2018 - 03:03pm PT
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I'm headed to the Dolomites for some skiing in February. Finding the flights significantly cheaper for nonstops out of Milan. But it is 2 1/2 hours further away than Venice.
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hb81
climber
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Aug 19, 2018 - 03:27pm PT
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Depends on where exactly you are headed... 2.5hrs maybe for Cortina. For other areas it's probably more like one hour difference.
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John Duffield
Mountain climber
New York
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Aug 19, 2018 - 04:19pm PT
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Interesting. Thanks
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Aug 19, 2018 - 05:20pm PT
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Go Roger! You still got some left.
Thanks for the reports.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2018 - 12:00am PT
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Point of information: due to extreme increase in traffic on Sella Pass, there are now restrictions to number of vehicles per day allowed on the drive. This is an environmental issue and the alpine tundra is suffering from vehicle emissions. Not to mention the hoofbeat of multitudes of climbers and hikers! Not certain about the numbers, but it seemed pretty low...something around 350 cars; couldn't read the Italian as to whether this was per hour or per day.
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John Duffield
Mountain climber
New York
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Aug 20, 2018 - 06:37am PT
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Seems there is a ski area in Passo Sella.
looks amazing
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hb81
climber
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Aug 20, 2018 - 10:46am PT
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Point of information: due to extreme increase in traffic on Sella Pass, there are now restrictions to number of vehicles per day allowed on the drive. This is an environmental issue and the alpine tundra is suffering from vehicle emissions. Not to mention the hoofbeat of multitudes of climbers and hikers! Not certain about the numbers, but it seemed pretty low...something around 350 cars; couldn't read the Italian as to whether this was per hour or per day.
thanks for that, heres some more info I found:
https://www.lonelyplanet.com/news/2018/07/27/traffic-restriction-measures-sella-pass-dolomites/
Have you seen if they were checking permits somewhere along the route? Wonder what they'll do if you come by in the evening and the limit has been reached? I can hardly imagine they'll have people turn around to make a huge detour...
edit: nevermind, its only between 9am and 4pm, so it shouldnt be too much of a hassle
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2018 - 03:15am PT
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There is excellent bus service from all points in val Gardena. I haven't used it yet. I wasn't bothered by the restrictions because I drove on Sunday.
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