MX
Trad climber
Bellevue, WA
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https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4i00s2aur2copbo/AADbR10JoSWX80gpFMUW7BlWa?dl=0
Regular NW Face of Half Dome climbers. Please find this detailed route beta from a one-day ascent in 2012. Some info may be dated, but for the most part it should be very accurate. If you have trouble with this link, email markkroese@gmail.com and I'll send you the Word file.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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I remember using a talon for 1 move and a purple C3 was pretty crucial as well. The rest was easy.
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kevinh
Trad climber
Fall City
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Headed to hd next week for the first time. Was planning on hiking in water as it sounds like the spring will be dry but can anyone confirm or deny?
Are people bringing a beak for the new shenanigans?
I've read very different things about the bolt ladder pitch above thank god ledge. Hook move, no hook move, tape two nut tools together... We will have a grappling hook. I'm 5'6", should I bring something longer than 2 nut tools? How hard would it be to figure this pitch out by headlamp?
Cheers
Kh
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bricepollock
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Topped out on Sept 18 after two days. Hauling was audacious with the bag catching on a ledge / lip / roof every pitch, often multiple times and often requiring lower outs of the bag.
* Spring was in good condition and filing from it didn't seem to decrease the level.
* Death slabs fixed lines were all in good condition
* There was a 5mm accessory chord across the rope toss. The sheath is cut exposing the core (which was still in good condition) so its life is probably limited.
From my sample, on each weekend day (Sat, Sun) there were two parties on the wall. One doing it in a day and another doing it in two.
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mountain lover
Trad climber
camino, ca
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We did the route on July 28/29
Supposed to be in a day but bivied on big Sandy. Spring was running. Good bivy sites at base. I nailed the rope toss the first time that was easy for me. The new bolt ladder to pendulum to a ledge was pretty straight forward went pretty easy just a
few reach ones. The last bolt ladder was a lot harder I thought pitch 22 or so. The last bolt well out of reach from top step of aider I tossed a sling with biner on end through a loop cord someone left tied to the bolt clipped my aider to that. After clipping a real runner into bolt I realized the cord hanging I had just aided on was shoelace. I left the runner to facilitate others getting to that way too stinking high bolt. I thought the last exit pitch I would run on, but route finding was a bit tricky. Miserable as bivu on big Sandy was finishing in dark would have been worse.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Isn't it about time to delete the free rating to this climb?
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blairbear
Trad climber
Newton Abbot, Devon, UK.
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Just to let you know a group of four of us topped out on Sunday 21st May 2017, were we the first party this year? It took us three days to climb the Northwest Regular route. If you require any current information about the route please contact blairthomson@live.co.uk and I will try my best to answer your questions.
Here is an update as I keep getting the same questions:
The spring was running when we arrived I couldn't tell you if it still is now.
The rope toss has to be executed still.
I would recommend at least one 70m rope for the lower outs/linking pitches.
The ropes leading up the death slabs are not in the best condition to get four of us up we rigged our own rope to ascend once the leader had ascended.
Most of the route was aid climbed we didn't free much of it.
Apparently a size 4 cam was very useful.
Hope this helps!
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juan.brein
Trad climber
London
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So we did the route on Saturday in a day. I posted a video with the rope toss: [Click to View YouTube Video]
The new pitches are:
Pitch 11:
Climb a new bolt ladder (8 bolts). At the moment one of the hangers is missing so we clove hitch a sling to the washer. Easy pendulum to a 5.8 mantel on loose rock. Build a new anchor takes BD 1 - 0.50
Pitch 12:
5.11 with some fixed gear. Go up to the higher bolt and:
 Execute a rope toss
Use beaks and hooks and aid higher to pendulum to the chimneys
None of both add difficulty to the route.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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I'd be worried about chunks of that chimney falling off. It was previously supported by the big ledge system (that fell off). The chimney seems to be held on from above and behind, but no longer below.
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WBraun
climber
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Regular Northwest Face, Half Dome has not yet been inspected by OSHA.
Until they do it is deemed unsafe.
When will OSHA inspect Regular Northwest Face, Half Dome to deem it safe?
NEVER!
Thus it will remain unsafe forever .....
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keyan
climber
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Is it safe to climb NWF this season? Have there been parties on it yet?
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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New topo for missing section after July 2015 rock fall
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looks easy from here
climber
Santa Cruzish
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I can't take credit for any of the information in this thread about a rockfall that occurred around 7/4/15, but it probably ought to be here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2651396/Half-Dome-Rockfall
Just got a call from a buddy who is currently at the top of pitch 11 (pitch above the Robbins traverse) of the regular route on Half Dome and he says the ledge there is missing! Anyone heard of recent rock fall on HD? He's done the route before so I kinda trust what he's saying, as outlandish as it sounds.
Thread includes some photos of the changes, and ClimbingRanger posted:
Hey folks,
The Yosemite climbing management along with the park geologist is actively researching the recent rockfall event on pitch 11 (it's disappearance) of the Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome. We will be evaluating it this afternoon from the ground and will be up at the base and on the route tomorrow to get a closer look.
We know that getting over to the anchors at the end of the Robbins Traverse is unlikely due to the routes current state. We recommend holding off on climbing the route until we have more information. As we gather more details we will keep the community updated here and on the Yosemite Climbing Information website.
http://www.climbingyosemite.com
If you have information about the event or questions, you can reach our office at 209-372-0360 or contact us from the website.
Thanks and be safe,
Brandon Latham
Climbing Ranger
Yosemite National Park |
steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Every time I've been up there there has been rocks coming down. I'm amazed more climbers haven't been killed by falling rocks, as I've had a few really close calls while on this route. A few Summers ago, my son and I were bivying at the base, and rocks were coming down all night.
When I did the Direct NWF, back in 1972, there was an enormous rockfall, (many tons), below us. We had already gone across Thank God ledge, but I thought the whole face was coming down. I'll never forget it.
Be careful up there!
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mountain lover
Trad climber
camino, ca
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The rock fall was afternoon of 6/11 we climbed the route 6/12
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Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Years ago we had some rock fall when we were three of four pitches off the ground. A few watermelon sized rocks came tumbling down from above with a scary whoosh, whoosh, helicopter sound. It was too early in the morning for hikers to be on top. It was also spring time and only lasted a few minutes.
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heldt.ewa
Social climber
Fremont
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mountain lover - on which dates have you been climbing?
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mountain lover
Trad climber
camino, ca
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As of 6/10/ 15, Spring is running full bore, gave me 4 liters in less than 2 minutes. Fixed ropes are in.
While starting up to fix first pitch, there was rock fall from the summit. One of the parties said it came off the Visor and looked like someone rolled it off the Visor, but it also could have just peeled off the visor. There were 7 parties in cue to climb the next day, 4 bailed after the rock fall (3 separate events apx 5 minutes apart from each other, apx bowling ball sized boulders). They free fell and did not hit wall until about top of pitch 3 0r 4 or so and just right of the route. I hugged the wall and got sprayed by sand falling the larger chunks landed further away from the wall. We reported it to the rangers.
After no further rock fall through the evening and night, decided to go for it and did not have any the next day.
Be safe out there.
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Madskates
climber
SLC, UT
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The spring is running at full blast as of 3/3/15. All the lines are looking good on the death slabs as well.
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clie
climber
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Hi, does any one know if the spring is running now ? Planning to do the route first week of June and want to make sure we don't have to hike in with all of our water. Thanks!
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travis h
climber
CA
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Death slabs are free of snow and the fixed ropes are there. Spring is running at the base. The route was in great condition as of 3/21.
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drsmonkey
Trad climber
A hole
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Anybody been up the Death Slabs lately?
Given the weather this winter we are thinking about skipping the annual early April desert trip and heading to the Valley instead to have another go at RNW.
How wet are the slabs and are the ropes gtg? Any snow up top?
Thanks
DRS
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Matt's
climber
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nezbit
1)yes, if you so desire. Doesn't save that much time, and now you are bringing two ropes with you.
2)yes, you could pull on draws and stand on bolts.
3) There is pretty much always fixed gear present. If it is gone, no usual gear is needed-- just normal small cams and nuts.
4) Don't know.
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Nezbit
climber
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Hey all!
A few questions about RNWF:
1) Can pitches 1-3 be fixed with 2 60m ropes?
2) Can the Robbins Traverse bolt ladder be french freed (pulling on draws w/out etriers)?
3) If there is no fixed gear in the 1st and 3rd zig zag, what gear is needed to free those pitches?
4) Which is the best way to go free climbing the 3rd Zig Zag--out right or straight up?
Thanks!
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dindolino32
climber
san francisco
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check out the thread "Fixed Rope Status in Yosemite"
Spring is most likely dry.
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Judd
Trad climber
New York
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Planning on climbing around Sept 10th. Anyone have updates on the ropes/spring?
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lrod
Trad climber
Atlanta, Ga
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Any recent information on the spring?
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matty
Trad climber
Sad the forum is gone =(
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Just do your research. There are a ton great tips if you seek out trip reports from IAD sends of half dome. 80m would be overkill 70 works fine, you can get it down to 17p or so with a 70. Practice climbing with the same gear you plan on taking (including water, clothes, food...everything so you can get a true feel for how it will be). Practice some pendulums first so you guarantee things go smoothly, leader should clean the top 5 bolts on pendulum so follower won't have to lower out, just swing over.
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Jared Benik
Sport climber
Reno
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question, what are keys things that a two person party need to do in order to pull a one day accent on the route and is it possible to link pitchs with a 80 meter rope?
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virtja1
climber
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Hey guys, anyone can help with beta on Robbins traverse?
Is it easy for follower to do it without technical knowledge of pendulums?
Thx, Jan.
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kolbu
Trad climber
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Is the spring still running?
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Spring strong as of 7/24
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protour
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Is the spring still running
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Hows the spring holding up this year?
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alina
Trad climber
CA
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ropes held my weight. death slabs are dry.
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whitemeat
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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I would go ahead and say the conditions are perfect...
based on this pic taken like 4 mins ago!
the ropes IDK... but I remember that the slabs were pretty easy even without ropes... I would bet they are up though!
have fun!
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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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anyone head up the death slabs this season and know the conditions/fixed ropes?
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The_Butcher
Big Wall climber
Oklahoma City, OK
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Spring still has water in it. 09/26
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Badger8
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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We are going for RNWF starting 9/28ish. Spring still running?
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jedster
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Water in spring at base as of yesterday. (9/13).
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The_Butcher
Big Wall climber
Oklahoma City, OK
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Spring running?
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Neil Adams
climber
Glasgow, Scotland
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The spring was running on Saturday (7th Sept).
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Hobotron
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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A random message on the message board at camp 4 said the spring was running as of 8/29/13. How much credibility you give a random message is up to you, but that's the word on the street.
Good luck!
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Jason A Graves
Trad climber
Carlsbad, CA Anchoredman.com
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Anyone know if the spring is still flowing? Planning on climbing on Monday Sep 2.
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Wannabeclimber
Trad climber
North Shore, HI
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08-11-13. Spring is running strong! Saw a party dip their bottles in and drink straight from it. Fixed lines and rap station is solid. Lots of fixed gear. I think every penji and tension traverse had tat to make things a whole lot easier (if you want to use it). Lots of trash at base and some on route. We packed out some, but couldn't take it all. Have fun!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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As of Aug 10, 1 spring is dry, the other is still running and deep enough to easily fill water bottles.
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flycess210
Trad climber
Mechanicsburg, PA
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Just got off the route on Saturday 8/10/13! What an amazing climb. Spring is still running but low and all the fixed ropes are still there.
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Wannabeclimber
Trad climber
North Shore, HI
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Thanks for all the previous posts! Have to ask though, any update on the spring? Looking to give RNWF a go starting fri/sat. Thanks in advance.
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Jaysen
Big Wall climber
NYC
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As of Aug 3rd 2013, the spring under the base of the RNWF is running but low, and all fixed lines up the death slabs are in place. cheers
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jjj
Trad climber
squamish
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Any recent reports on spring? Fix lines in ok shape and or still there. read about snapped line.. Lucky.. Might go give it a try next week
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Thad Arnold
climber
Oregon
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Spring is running as of July 17th, 2013. It looked pretty much the same as a month ago.
Also, when you're starting the decent from the base back to the valley it's very easy to get suckered into schwacking through manzanita. To avoid this, take the cairned decent trail (the last good looking trail taking off from the base before you get cliffed out on a little bulge) and then look very carefully for a sneaky slightly uphill LEFT turn within the first couple hundred feet. This keeps the manzanita to a minimum.
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namascar
Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
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Spring at the base is running as of June the 30th,(2013). Temps are supper high in the wall in the afternoon.
We had some trouble with pitch 22, one before the last. The pengy between the two bolt ladders can be tricky at night, as the bolts are hard to see and you need to be in front of the bolts to see them. The first bolt ladder has 3 bolts, from the first of which there was a 3 feet decolored bluish sling hanging. Two bolts follow. Then there is a red sling hanging from a bolt way higher up. We didn't see any bolts in between. Go to this higher bolt from where the red sling hangs and pengy from there to a 1 foot roundish feature in the horizontal crack. Get a cam hook in the feature, then left to it, in the horizontal crack get a green alien (not great), then left to it, get a yellow alien (good). Stand on the yellow alien and when the bolt is in front of your nose, you will see it (at night).
Great route, enjoy.
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whitemeat
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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both the springs are running as of 6/21/13
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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My son and I were up there a few days ago. A young climber, up higher was real lucky when he pulled a flake off the size of a refrigerator, which is now wedged in the bottom of the chimney, after you traverse right. It shredded his rope.
There is a ton of stuff up there just waiting to be knocked/pulled off by a careless or unlucky climber. I was very cautious on the route, having had close calls in the past up there.
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Paul B
Big Wall climber
Sheffield, UK
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