Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2019 - 08:22pm PT
|
An established climb. Written up in a guide. If the guide was right then I did the 3rd ascent on Friday and the 4th ascent today.
And the guide is now wrong.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
You’re right Trad, I don’t hink about it much, but it’s always there in the photos.
Too funny mh2!
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
Yes, Jay, but also the plain truth.
From the guidebook:
ffa: P. Mede, S. Ellison, M. Levy [It] is rather dirty seeing it has only been climbed twice in its entirety. Be prepared for loose rock.
2004
It could be no coincidence that I met M. Levy 2 mornings previously. He was photographing birds. I was headed up to a different climb, improbably an fa of mine.
On the 29th I did the route but left behind a rope. On the 31st I went back to retrieve it.
The rope shown below is an 80 meter static and I didn't want to risk having it give me trouble on the climb back out on the 29th, since I did not know how hard it would be.
Very few people could identify this route. I was surprised to arrive at the almost-always-deserted summit to find a guy who knew the name of the route. Stefan helped me pull up my ropes. Thanks, Stefan!
|
|
Aeriq
Sport climber
100-year Visitor
|
|
Wrapped up my 44th new route in the Owens River Gorge yesterday.
"Business Time" is a 10-bolt 5.10d with a hard start and a cool techy shallow-dish feature mid-way.
Starting up the FA:
Transition to the dish feature:
|
|
7SacredPools
Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
|
|
Thanks for all the hard work Aeriq. Maybe I'll get to climb there one day.
|
|
yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
|
|
Not today. End of February/beginning of March. I've been climbing ropeless since then (but up to 4 times a week). This weekend the weather looks perfect to break out the harnesses and rope and head for La Vigilancia.
|
|
jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
|
flowers going off at the new craggy!
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Beautiful! I love the desert in spring!
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Felt the itch for some winter hikeing. A jaunt up Mt Willard seemed in order. late start. leave the parking lots 1:30ish Lower Hitchcock was all snow. Temps in the 40s. I occasionally fall through the bootpack and posthole... Start up Left Hand Monkey Wrench. Its huge. I only get about 10ft up when it feels funny.. all that post holeing and falling into tree wells must have done something to my crampon. I likely could have one hopped down climbed but it was easier to simply fire in a screw and fix the problem. Super casual fix. about 50ft up that crampon still feels funny? fired in another screw and fiddled with it some more. seems like the spacer bar must have jumped a hole? Feels good now. The top out is fun and interesting. Glad to have a functioning crampon. Another tromp through the woods with more post holeing brings me to the Cleft. A really cool 70m chasm filled with ice. its huge! no sign of the notorious chockstone. It is completely buried in ice th ice is surprisingly brittle. must be the ice temp is still very cold and it is having a reaction to the warm air and making a funky top layer. It is a good thing the crampons work. I feel better about having a rope in my pack. It occurs to me that if I completely lost a crampon mid route that I would have been in serious do do without the rappel option.. There were quite a few very tricky bulges that I doubt I would have been able to negotiate with only one crampon or 1 tool. The top out was casual followed by another post holeing session for several hundred meters to the trail and a short hike to the summit.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2019 - 06:17pm PT
|
|
|
steve s
Trad climber
eldo
|
|
MikeM, looks like the camera is tilted fort that shot of Calypso. Fun Eldo classic.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2019 - 11:52am PT
|
I am just glad Jack picked up the camera. If he made me leading a classic 5.6 look like I am climbing a 5.10 all the better. It was in the 70's in boulder today and yesterday. First day in shorts this year.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2019 - 09:14pm PT
|
__Trombones in the big parade, style ascent
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Apr 16, 2019 - 03:42am PT
|
Sunday. Drove way to far for 80m of 2+ ice.. usually I do this spring migration solo as Isa is often in Europe this time of year but this year she is along for the ride.. we get there and see two climbers up high we find a bit of easy rock climbing on the 1st pitch I quickly catch the two ladies. Jacki and Lovena. Both friends from the FB page Obnoxious alpinists. Isa boogies by them on the right I soon follow Some socializing and a quick butt slide down the decent gully we switch leads and do it again more butt sliding and we are back at the van just as the rain starts.. I think it might be time to hang up the tools... My skin the day before
|
|
yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
|
|
Several things like this
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
Really nice!
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
I went out to climb yesterday, down to the seaside traverse.
The wind was chilly, the waves were high, the sun was thin, and there was lot going on to keep the photographer busy.
Disney's Pinnochio and Spielberg's Jaws have made me frighten when shapes flash below me in the water.
Then I noticed a one-legged invisible person on the water.
Then I saw that they were wearing one of my shoes. That decided it. I had to do the north end of the traverse.
What the shoe saw.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!