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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 29, 2019 - 11:11am PT
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How much extra did you pay for flush inset vs overlay on the cabinets? Looks like nice rich environment to cook a meal!
I want to claim Monterey Pine on the tree with the ocean and bluffs but I've seen big live oaks in the hills above the Ranch with Point Conception in the distance.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Republic, WA
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Jan 29, 2019 - 11:17am PT
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This place doesn't have gas. I'm still trying to convince wife to get a propane tank. I used electric growing up but have usually had a gas stove as an adult. Electric is just o.k. it will do if you have to. The worst thing about electric is oven doors. They all get wonky after a while.
There is one self-imposed constraint I have for my kitchen and that is to use local sourced materials as much as practical. It is nice to be able to just choose some fancy wood and go down to the lumber guys and buy it but up here that is Spokane which is 3+ hours away and as I said before I am cheap. I have free trees but they need to be cut down and taken to a local small mill and then the rough wood needs to be planed and such. My choices are pine, fir, larch, and some cedar and the odd spruce. Hardwoods need to be brought in. A lot of work with planers and routers, saws and sanders. A winch really helps. Skills too, but that comes by and by.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 29, 2019 - 11:24am PT
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Ha! The panels ain’t no plyboard neither.
Love these Häfele blind corner pull-outs - got two ‘em.
Installed motion sensor lights inside ‘em!
A tad close with the sink sticking out. 🤡
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 29, 2019 - 12:01pm PT
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Amazing attention to detail there. It looks like a lot of pieces that can't just be bought and screwed in, I like to see that. I'm a fan of no glass myself, I like to hide everything behind a solid door in fact, my kitchen items are generally too ugly and disorganized to put on display.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Jan 29, 2019 - 01:53pm PT
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Nice looking kitchen. Like the inset vs an overlay. Clean and crisp look,
Cutting it close on clearance to that farm sink. We always joke “ it takes skill and timing....to wreck a car” . Enjoy your kitchen.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Jan 29, 2019 - 02:11pm PT
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Steve , I appreciate your rant.
When the electrician that works for me did his first job with me , I gave him a broom and dustpan.
He asked ,what is this for?
I told him,it will make sure you get paid.
Lol,true story.
Nice work Reilly and Just the Maid.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 30, 2019 - 11:11am PT
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Don’t get me started on electricians. 😡
Sitting out in the gazebo bbq-ing last night.
Crankloon building dept droids didn’t want to give me a permit for it cause they were too stoopid to know what they were looking at (I provided a full set of drawings). After I told them that ‘hammer beam trusses’ have been holding up steeples and sh!t in Europe for 6 centuries they went, “Well, OK.”
morons
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the goat
climber
Mazama, WA
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Jan 30, 2019 - 09:19pm PT
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[photoid=550985]
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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This was a 1950's 2 bedroom, one story. We're finally wrapping up a, strip to the bones remodel. Trade secret- Hansen "Rosemary" is the exact same color as 100 year old sidewalk concrete. Use the old 1/4 inch radius edger- no big pillow joints allowed!
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Surf music and pillow joint edgers...gack...
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Pillow joint edgers lead to the proliferation of Roundup.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Republic, WA
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Trade secret- Hansen "Rosemary" is the exact same color as 100 year old sidewalk concrete. Use the old 1/4 inch radius edger- no big pillow joints allowed!
For those not in the trades and familiar with the lingo, please explain. You do some nice looking work there Contractor.
On another note, I need to get a surface planer. What can you pros tell me to look for and what to avoid. I plan on using this a lot, not just the random small project.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Thanks Wayno.
100 year old concrete takes on a subtle ocher, tan color. If you have a historic sidewalk at the front of your house it's cool to play off that theme for the onsite hardscape.
Hansen is a cement company in Southern California and their Rosemary, colored cement is a dead ringer for old concrete. A light acid wash to slightly expose the sand tops it off. A small radius tool to finish the edges and joints adds to the historic look.
Thickness surfacer- I have the DeWalt 12.5". There's for sure better products out there but for my purposes, this surfacer is great. The best funtion for me is to mass, rough rip trim (up to 6" I believe) and stack a half dozen or so at a time on edge and run through to clean up the rip- no sanding required. My guys will waste a whole day sanding each edge individually which kills me.
You'd want a 3 carbide tooth head, self feeding, 2 speed and smooth adjustability.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Wayno, you talking a portable planer or a real shop model? Big difference, of course.
Don’t have a portable but I recall a Fine Homebuilding review some years ago you could look up. I recall that the Makita was their pick, not surprisingly. No flies on most DeWalt stuff tho.
Do like my Mini-Max, but it ain’t exactly ‘mini’ at 1000 lbs. 😉
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Republic, WA
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I have done a bit of reading about planers and for my needs the Dewalt 735 seems like the ticket. I even see them on craigslist. As much as I would like a big heavy shop model, cost is more an issue than weight. If I can find a used industrial one for the right price I would get it but I am not going to wait forever, I got stuff to do. There was actually a guy in town that had a nice old beast of a 15 incher but it ran on 440 volts. I'm not going there.
I have seen plenty of cheap portable planers about but I don't trust most of them. I heard that even the Dewalts have dropped in quality recently. Not the same machine as a couple years ago but the same model numbers. This movement of power tools to disposable, buy a warranty crap really bugs the hell out of me.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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I don't get much use out of my planer - for cabinetry - if you say you're looking at building a kitchen.
Buy S3S, common at wholesale for pennies over rough sawn, rip with a rather capable table saw and a very sharp blade, no need for a jointer, add a few bisquits to keep everything aligned, glue up, scrape, belt sander, finish sander, done -> flat.
Better yet, consider just buying your doors, fabricate the boxes. Doors are super high labor and tooling costs if you want nice 5 piece designs - from rough sawn to finish.
Or just buy the whole cabinet - not many build their own kitchen cabinets - focus your skills and time putting it all together. This, I think you may find, is the lowest cost path to the highest possible quality.
Table saw - and at that - the fence - most important tool in the shop - IMO.
I'm not a pro, though.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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^^^^ Only somebody who doesn’t value their time makes cabinet doors.* To do it at all
efficiently takes a huge investment. Yes, it can be done with a quality router table, just
not efficiently. With two router tables or the stick and cope bits set up in two routers fixed
to plates that can be dropped right into the router table one can begin to approach efficiency,
but if you really do the numbers outsourcing is the only way.
The same can be said for the boxes. Any number of outfits will make your boxes and ship
them to you flat for your assembly with all hardware holes CNC drilled and at a remarkably
cheap price. Going that route you can do flush inset pretty efficiently by just making the
face frames.
*or drawers
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Republic, WA
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The kitchen is not the only project I have. I am not building the cabinets in the kitchen, just refacing them. I really want to do this for the experience of taking a tree and getting finished products. I am into learning as much as building and cheap is always relative, not imperative. Same with efficiency. I am not getting paid and I have time. Besides, the look I'm going for can't just be bought somewhere. Thanks anyway for the advice, JLP.
I have some ideas that you builders might think is stupid or unnecessary but I really want the finished project a certain way and as far as I can tell nobody is doing it that way. I will probably learn the hard way.
I want to make this house my house. I will probably not ever move or sell it. I'm going to make my last stand here.
As an example I want to do a room with pine flooring. Not common but it is done now and then. It's not a high traffic area and I have whole bunch of 1" pine. 16 footers with lots of blue and some big-ass knots. So I will plane them and router some tongue and groove and put a nice finish on and get on the kneepads. Just one room, 200 square feet. My sitting room. Comfy chairs, books, no electronic media.
I have three unfinished bedrooms and four or five other "rooms" to play with. And another bathroom. That is just the inside. I have a lot to do outside as well.
My wife just gets overwhelmed, I love the challenge.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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I use the crap out of my Dewalt 3 knife cutter head bench planer. But I’m in the trades. Nothing like getting all the parts “exactly” the same size. No sanding,etc. I try to avoid sanding on stain grade trim . It can lead to imperfect and varying finishes. Long time ago this one architect insisted that all the CVG fir trim we were going to throw up all over his house had to be bench planed no sanding allowed. He claimed that sanding clogged the pores in the wood. Not sure if he was full of it...he was an architect after all.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Right - 735? For trim carpentry, I can see it. I have one myself. Super smooth on the finish speed - probably cleaner and clearer than any sanding will get you. Knives are somewhat reasonable priced with aftermarket options available - plus reversible - so probably not a bad unit to pick up used after testing.
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