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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 24, 2017 - 10:52am PT
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HaHaHa! You show 'em, Gunkie!
My bro's old boss was known by his slaves as 'Tini' - three for lunch sometimes!
Luckily, he knew how to delegate, especially after lunch.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2017 - 02:28pm PT
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Yup, Friday night starts earlier in the Eastern Time Zone.
Hey Gunkie,
Since you started the first Wings of Steel thread and all, you might be interested to know that Richard Jensen just sent me an original tale of the FA of Wings of Steel, which Fabio and I are going to include in the English translation of his Artificial Intelligence aid climbing text.
We're working on translating from Italian - much harder than it would appear - and I'll be tossing in all my Dr. Piton big wall tips.
Cheers and beers, eh?
P.S. If you guys haven't checked out Deucey's portaledge thread, have a look. Great stuff!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2017 - 05:52pm PT
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^^ Where y'at??
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 24, 2017 - 06:08pm PT
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Oops I left that here way to long !mthanx Moosewise!m
I'm always at your disposal,
the way that the similarities to your trajectory and my fathers, 30 years prior, is spooky.
but what the hey !
We are all Canadian when posting to this thread!,,
For those who were upended and lost in my babble I was trying to get my
Thoughts and words to coalesce.
But in stead the colon attend - shite lacking coherency about the slow drum beat of chaos that may lead to greater fascism than the republic can survive,
But that is to gloomy
The fake obnoxious poster going by drf! What is your problem with me? I'll take it you think that taking on Fry's persona is? What Some other cranky sz hole called me fatuous
Look that up it fits you far more than me,
What ever you're drinking it makes you seem lite
Weak sauce yeah I'm talking about earlier today what ever you think those foot-hills of NJ
Turned out the best hardest climbers for decades you should learn some history!
As an example I've left this:
After all the Bushes packed pallet full of millions of dollars and then claimed that the money was sent troops to pass out to the needy. .
Yeah sure!
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
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Feb 24, 2017 - 06:26pm PT
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A beer. Simple beer.
Susan
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 24, 2017 - 08:58pm PT
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Cooked up some Thai-style crispy fried fish tonight, and had the perfect accompaniment on hand.
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drF
Trad climber
usa
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Feb 24, 2017 - 09:07pm PT
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I love Sake!! My fave, Momokawa is brewed in Oregon. A refined sip no doubt.
On a different note...#Garblebase# is a deranged, angst-ridden persona. Entertain this persona at your risk. A Very troubled person.
Ghost...enjoy the evening
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Feb 24, 2017 - 09:30pm PT
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More Anita 514 pics!!!!!!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Feb 24, 2017 - 10:53pm PT
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2. At least one inflammatory comment More Anita 514 pics!!!!!! Chapeau
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2017 - 11:59am PT
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Hooking on the New Dawn traverse leading across to the Wall of Early Morning Light. Note the diorite of the North America Wall behind me - certainly you're familiar with the feature, having seen it from El Cap Meadow. But here is a cool profile view taken from halfway up the wall.
Here's a great shot of Anita cleaning the full-pitch traverse rightward from the Texas Flake area across to the New Dawn dihedral. El Cap Tower is barely visible right underneath her.
Just like in free climbing, cleaning an aid traverse can be almost as hard as leading it. This pitch involves hook moves, nailing pins and plenty of fixed mank, and it requires confidence and competence to clean, especially with fifteen hundred feet of air under her heels!
Anita after cleaning one of the pitches. I took this photo of her. No, really.... I did. ;)
Looking up the New Dawn dihedrals towards Wino Tower, with the gigantic New Dawn roof visible overhead. We never made it that far.... Warren Harding was disappointed to find little to nail in this shallow dihedral, and ended up drilling a lot of rivets.
Harding's rivets are more like aluminum dowels with slightly mushroomed heads, and the rivet hangers would barely stay attached. The rivets are also pretty far apart, and accordingly I didn't want to use the Y-shaped "cinching style" rivet hangers - which grip well, but are only half as strong as the "loop style" hangers. So I had to use loop style hangers, held against the rivet with duct tape.
Anita reminded me that as she jugged and cleaned the pitch, the rivet hangers would come whipping down the tensioned rope and whack her in the face!
Here's how Adam Ondra worked these pitches, before ultimately sending them.
Anita on the way up during the last of the good weather
Under the fly during the storm at Wino Tower
Cheers, eh? Saturday is the new Friday! We're looking at a bottle of Chilean Pinot Noir. Is it Changeover Time* yet?
*Coffee to wine!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2017 - 05:35pm PT
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Starting out with Napa Petite Sirah here in Montreal.
Good Friday evening!!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Posting while sober, but enjoying this...
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2017 - 06:32pm PT
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Whoah Lollie.... Now THAT is a proper Friday night post!!!!112
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Utility drinking this fine Friday evening.
Sierra Nevada Torpedo in a can.
In the new Casa de Flip Flop.
I now live in Reno Nevada.
And have a job.
In Reno Nevada.
Car seat furniture.
Bouldering pad table
Time to drink a few.
Tomorrow is a ski day.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Somebody go bang that drunk Swede and then hold her hair back while she pukes....
The glass is mostly empty....
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Beware the dangers of drinking and dreaming of traveling!
"Oh, that's a good price! Book it Danno!"
Two bloody beers and we're booked roundtrip Business to London on BA in June!
Them's two expensive beers!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Two bloody beers and we're booked roundtrip Business to London on BA in June!
Them's two expensive beers!
No sh#t. For the same price -- or probably less -- you could have booked a flight to somewhere worth going to.
London? Why?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2017 - 08:52pm PT
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The beer?
Geez....It's not even cold in London!
My last bottle of Petite Sirah with Andy KP after Real Nose and Sea of Dreams. I'm, um, faring rather better tonight than that night....
Ha. I'm wearing my NIAD shirt. Canada Day, eh? I don't think anyone even saw us. The place was deserted.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Ghost, with my pedigree I take that to be a rhetorical question.
Besides, haven't seen Uncle Stirling in yonks! Besides, can't pass up this exchange rate.
Oh, did I mention the Westminster Abbey Organ Festival?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2017 - 03:04pm PT
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Good Friday evening from Montreal where we are warming up with St. Ambroise Oatmeal Stout.
Qu'est-ce que tu le fuque? Vive le Queerbec libre!
Merde alors. Y fait frette!
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