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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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I think it was the right side of the Footstool, 5.4, with Rick Holmes in 1972.
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WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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The Nose.
I believe I am the first one to respond with the Nose. Surely many others climbed the Nose as their first Yosemite climb. My "Road to the Nose" was training on my home crags in Colorado.
Wally
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Daphne-
Could have been 'mojo tooth', then the routes you mentioned.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
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My favorite quote so far, captures some of my best climbing experiences well:
I thought we were in some serious sh$t, but I never felt so alive.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Nutcracker - of course.
It had to be a RR route. It was a little depressing that the formation has to be named the Manure Pile. We took an extra line for rapping, and it got hung up. We untied and left it intending to retrive it the next day. It wasn't there, and we were horrified. Some wonderful person turned it into the climbing shop, and we happened to go to the store the next day, bellyached about it, and viola - it appeared. The sun came out, brids sang, and we proceeded to do Little John, After Six, and the East Buttress.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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In the end of summer 2010 I had the urge to lead Snake Dike (5.7R climb on Half Dome). By than I climbed outside for about 4 month or so and in the gym for about 9 month. I never led anything before but followed a few things. Friend of mine I met on Shasta a while back was up for it. Somehow we ended up doing it without an epic, and he said my placements were fine even. But anchors that I set were as sad as it gets.
Than a month earlier I climbed in the actual Yosemite valley. It was something in Swan Slab area.
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HuecoRat
Trad climber
NJ
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Triple Direct on El Cap. May 1986. First time aiding or using ascenders. Quite an education! 4 and a half days of fear and fun. Totally worth it!
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Brandon-
climber
Done With Tobacco
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Highway Star.
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Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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After six with my mentor. seconded the whole way and had mad respect for his skills on that first pitch. My technique sucked and spent a lot of watching my feet not stick to anything. Needless to say it was a very eye opening experience......
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Mittens
climber
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I rolled into camp 4 at night (my first trip to the Valley), and saw someone putting a note up onto the board. I asked if they needed a partner, and spent the entire next day following Peter Croft up the Hall of Mirrors on the Apron.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Storer - 1961! Very cool - respect to you.
Ed: Mittens, so lucky.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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did you guys go to the top? (Hall of Mirrors)
EDIT: duh
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Pretty sure it was the Harry Daley route on the apron. Big time adventure!!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Central Pillar of Frenzy.
My BF at the time was too wall centric and didn't want to free climb. I walked over to the board at Camp 4 to try to find a partner and at that same time this guy walked over and was looking for a partner too. We talked about climbs and had the same one in mind. It was one of the best climbing experiences I've ever had. He was a great partner and it was a great day.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nutcracker, very pleasant as I recall.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Sunnyside Jam Crack pitches 1 & 2 & also did Lazy Bum & Bummer. That was in September 1981 with Mike "Guargoyle" Guardino & Philip Witmeyer.
We also did many others on that trip & went to the meadows too,but you always remember your first! :)
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Reed's direct, after I'd been climbing about 4 months.
Having never climbed anything requiring such pure crack technique, I had no idea what I was doing. Placed a cam as high up as I could off the little ledge down low and went for it. Barndoored out of the crack and attempted to keep going in lieback mode.
Got spit right off and fell back to the aforementioned piece, and my buttock smashed right onto the little ledge. I was totally freaked out and lowered back down. My even less experienced partner took a try and couldn't even get himself to commit to moving off the ledge.
I wasn't about to try again, so we ended up back cleaning and with tail tucked between swollen and non swollen buttock, we retreated.
Spirits were low as we realized we had GREATLY overestimated our ability. What was supposed to be a weekend full of radical sends, was starting to look like it would end up as a 48 hour beatdown.
But, we didn't pack it in. We adjusted our expectations and instead spent the rest of day 1 on 5.6 territory. The next day we made a successful ascent of nutcracker.
I returned a couple of years later and sent Reed's like it was my morning walk to get the mail. Then went around the corner and sent Lunatic Fringe. Redemption!
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tyrone
Trad climber
california
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Munginella with this pretty cool Irish guy I met at Swan Slab. I led pitches 1 & 3, and he led pitch 2. He got off route a bit and ended up climbing the face to the ledge.
The most memorable part though was driving into the valley for the first time and when you come through the tunnel where El Cap becomes visible for the first time. I nearly drove off the cliff!
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schwortz
Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
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nutcracker
we spent the whole day lounging in the meadow watching el cap tv, then in the late afternoon the crowds abandoned ship and with no one on the route we simul-climbed and linked stuff for a quick end-of-day warm-up/cool-down on nutcracker. it was fun.
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