The Knobs

When I first bouldered in Tuolumne 20 years ago The Knobs were the main place. It was even featured in the ultra classic climbing movie of the time, Masters of Stone. One of the original Yosemite Stonemasters, Ron Kauk did a rare (rare back then) dyno and even a double dyno just for fun. It was one of the most radical stunts I’d ever seen! Dynos were almost totally unheard of back in the late 1980s/early 90s. The problem is easy to find in the list below, it’s called Double Dyno and is actually more commonly done with two single dynos (which is still technically a double dyno) but to do a true double (twohanded)dyno on the big second dyno to the top lip is the super bonus party trick and sort of a goofy Knobs tradition. Named after the common Tuolumne hold, the Diorite Knob, this is the place to get your fingers used to pinching, crimping, and standing on the tiny grips. A high concentration of classic problems from VB to V-hard take mostly plumb lines up several blocks scattered around the forest. Most of the problems are above flat stone slabs and all are right off the road. It’s no wonder that these are still some of the most popular boulders in Tuolumne. Here is a quote from one of the Yosemite Stonemasters, John Bachar, about the boulder problems at the Knobs:“I used to train on these things extensively to prepare for the Bachar Yerian and other Tuolumne first ascents. Especially the traverses. They are still difficult today.”

Creek Arete V0****, Knob Face V0***, #28 V3***, The Layback V2***, The Door Knob V3***, Kauk Problem V5**** or V6**** sit, Snake Eyes V2**** or V3**** sit, Double Dyno V2**** or V3**** sit, Eliminator Traverse V7***, The Cross V3***, The Scoop V3**** and The Scoop Arete V2***

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