Trip Report
Windfall to Windchill (IV/V 5.11)

by Vitaliy M.
Wednesday April 23, 2014 11:21am
It was a dark Saturday morning and we were the first car to pull into the Wawona Tunnel parking lot. The view towards Half Dome was as depressing as our mental state - we knew that today our lives would depend on the hard-earned rock climbing skills we polished to perfection at Planet Granite. Over the last two years we bouldered, ran laps on artificial cracks, took Yoga classes, saw children warm up on our projects and spent hours on treadmills. As a final test Gleb and I pinkpointed a yellow 5.11a in a lead cave. We knew that after the clock strikes midnight things might never be the same. I was wondering if the two of us would have a chance to climb as partners ever again. We were about to commit to a notorious Chapman-Worrall route, up a striking wall on the East end of Widow's Tears Amphitheater. Boldness of the First Ascentionists is hard to relate to. We heard they did not leave their quickdraws fixed on the route. In addition, there was a rumor they didn't even bolt the overhanging fist crack. Armed with triple set of Black Diamond X4s, Big Bros, Power Bars and Power Drills we were ready to conquer this giant Yosemite wall by linking up Windfall to Windchill for a total of 13 pitches of TRAD climbing. It was going to be a giant leap into unknown since all we had was a topo from the 1994 Reid Guide. This climb is SO EPICLY OBSCURE, THE SUPERTOPO DOESN'T EVEN HAVE A REFERENCE TO IT!


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#IMSCAREDBROHOLDMYHAND

JUST KIDDING!

We pulled into the parking lot sometime much later than we had planned and had a greeting with hundreds of tourists. After putting together a rack we were ready to depart, but after the tourists noticed our "shiny things" and a "climbing rope" they wanted to take pictures. Since both of us are nice guys *cough* ATTENTION WHORES! *cough*, we did not refuse and enjoyed every second of our hard earned fame.


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How it really was #NOTDATEPIC


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The climb goes up this buttress to the top of Stanford Point #SICKKK!


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Widows Tears Amphitheater #HARDMENICECLIMBHERE


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Me at the base of the route #RADVIEWDUDE

I told Gleb that I had the approach dialed since I have done it to attempt Widows Tears as an ice climb a few years ago. "About 40 easy minutes," I said, sandbagging us both. After some bushwhacking to the base of the wall it took us a while to traverse the base and find the proper ledge from which the climb begins.


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Gleb starting to lead the first pitch (5.10a with really fun climbing) #READY.SET.SEND!


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Gleb is super excited about the 5.11 roof #LOOKINSHARPBRO!


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View of El Cap and Ribbon Falls #ROCKSNTHANGS!


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Gleb leading pitch 2 - 5.11 roof! #SOFT!

Before we got on Windfall we played rock, paper, scissors to divide the leads. I lost, which meant Gleb got pitch one (5.10a lay-back) and two (5.11a-burly roof). On the other hand, I got to lead pitch three (5.8 traverse to the base of an overhang), four (5.11a - overhanging hands, fists and thin hands) and five (5.10c awesome thin hand crack which zigzags up a headwall).

Aside from a traverse on pitch three, the climbing on Windfall was fantastic. The lichen was present, but not enough to really be noticed. Aside from third we thought the other pitches deserved 4/4 stars. The giant roof and an overhanging crack in a corner took the prize for some of the wildest pitches either of us have done on granite. I did not think there were many pitches that overhang more than The Enema, but on this route I found two!


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Widows Tears Amphitheater


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Me happy about (barely) sendin the 4th pitch (5.11a). Look at my tag line to understand how overhanging it is.


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You can see part of the thin hands start of 5th pitch at the bottom. #WHEREPERMADRAWSAT


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Me on pitch 5 (5.10c) #CRANKIN!

We got to the the top of Windfall and Gleb took us to the top of the sixth pitch, an awkward 5.7 chimney. I started climbing up the seventh pitch but had some difficulties locating the 5.10c crack till I climbed up and traversed around a corner and to the left from our belay ledge. This turned out to be one of the best 5.10c pitches I have done in the Valley. Steep fingers and off-hand jamming up a beautiful left-leaning splitter. The crux for me was in the last section before the belay. I had to fight lichen, rope drag, pump but came out on top. Gleb and I thought this pitch wasn't easy.


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Me celebrating on top after leading an incredible 5.10c pitch


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Awesome place to hang out #IAMJOHNMUIRBRO


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This is the following 5.10a pitch - not bad eh? #SICKMOVES


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#ILEFTMYHEARTINSANFRANCISCO


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Looking down at wide climbing at the top of 10a pitch #GNAR

Next pitch was a 5.10a with some interesting climbing. The beginning was especially fun, with finger jamming through a chockstone/loose flake and pulling into a bunch of wide. You pass a tree mid way up and belay under a giant chockstone. Pitch after that was an enjoyable 5.8 squeeze chimney with no pro for a ways. Eventually I got a good piece in and followed the path of least resistance to the belay at the start of a manzanita field. Gleb led us through the 4th class bushwhacking. Personally, I would not even call it class 3. The bushes are so thick that it is hard to move. One would have to work real hard to fall off here.


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Me in the 5.8 chimney #MOREWIDEGNARNOPRO


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Gleb on 2nd to last pitch


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Looking down at the slab section on the last pitch. My last piece of pro is that sh#t tree at the start of the ledge #RETROBOLTTHATSH#TBRO!


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At least the views were still inspiring


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Slightly overhanging 5.8 fist crack to finish the climb. YES PLEASE!

Here is when we had a little flash-back from a year ago. When we climbed the Ho Chi Minh trail we looked at the topo of the last pitches and laughed. "Eh a few 5.8s. We will cruise to the top and get down to Pizza deck in an hour." Topo for Windchill mentions "one move 5.10a" and 5.8 climbing to the top of the route. Gleb led the 5.8 pitch prior to last, and I took the 10a pitch to the top of the formation. Even though I will not ruin an experience for those who want to do the route by spraying down the beta, I will mention that this pitch does pack some spice and a fall here would be ugly!


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Gleb on the last moves of the climb #SICKKK!!!


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Us on top #IAMBEAUTIFULNOMATTERWHATYOUSAY


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Stanford point is an awesome spot. Another great hike to add to your tick list if you are not into climbing Windchill.


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Awesome to see this as you are descending vs several pitches from the summit #NOWWEMAKEOUT

In any case, once you are past this section, very enjoyable section of nearly overhanging fists takes you to the top. Unlike the Ho Chi Minh trail, you do not have to get down the sketchy 4th class ledge system, but take a perfect trail all the way down to Wawona Tunnel parking lot. This climb has incredible views, wild climbing and one is NOT likely to be stuck in line behind other climbers. A great route to put on a tick-list for those who are into incredible climbing off the beaten path.

BETA: double rack from green alien to BD#4 cam. Three BD.75/1 cams would be nice to have since 5th pitch takes only that size for the anchor. We did not place nuts. Did not bring a #5 cam, and didn't think it was that important to have. #SACKUPBRO!

  Trip Report Views: 4,812
Vitaliy M. 		About the Author
Vitaliy M. is annoying gym climber from San Francisco.

Comments
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
  Apr 23, 2014 - 11:35am PT
Mike, DOOD, your trip reports, narrative and pictures never fail to just sweep me away. What a beautiful climb and vistas.
Thank you so much for taking the time to put together your reports.
Love it!

Susan
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Apr 23, 2014 - 11:48am PT
#SICKBRO!

I'm not sure what I liked more; the climb, the report, or your outfit.

All three were excellent
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
  Apr 23, 2014 - 11:47am PT
Thanks!
Mikemcee

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
  Apr 23, 2014 - 11:51am PT
#TOPF*#KINNOTCHBRO
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Apr 23, 2014 - 11:59am PT
I'm happy to see your mad TR skillz are keeping up with your progression through the ranks of climbing wizardry! This climb made a gleam in my eye for a long time, but I never committed enough time to reach the level where I wouldn't die if I tried it. At least for the next 10 years, this report is probably as close as I'll come. tiffypoo
RyanD

climber
  Apr 23, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
Good stuff! Looks like some quality esoterica, thanks to you it will probably be in the new select guide. What's with Glebs outfit?! Looks like the #worldskinniestlumberjack
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Apr 23, 2014 - 12:03pm PT
nice TR V.
right now you're pretty much carrying STForum on your back...
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Apr 23, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
Wow! You and your exploits never cease to amaze! I dig the hashtags, but mainly your stoke!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
  Apr 23, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
Ryan, I think that's Vitaly you're talking about in the plaid pajamas. Great TR.
mhay

climber
Bishop, CA
  Apr 23, 2014 - 12:26pm PT
#IMSCAREDBROHOLDMYHAND
#RETROBOLTTHATSH#TBRO!

Dude, you gotta quit taking yourself so seriously, and have some fun with your climbing and TR's.
WBraun

climber
  Apr 23, 2014 - 12:43pm PT
Good job.

Like Warbler says hardly anyone ever goes up there.

I've done this primo route many many times with various partners and twice with Merry.

When the Valley is crowded with climbers this is one of the many places where it will be free ......
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Apr 23, 2014 - 12:58pm PT
Awesome stuff!! No traffic is right. Your pics show rock alive with stuff growing on it. Great job guys! More insane (read requires skill) stuff I will never do.

On a more serious note, is climbing in your PJ's working for you? I'm looking for some climbing pants on the cheap.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Apr 23, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
Adventure + quality= nice work! Thanks for the fun read. Looks like you beat Sirius to it (emailed for beta a couple weeks back). Now it's a trade route and will probably receive two ascents/season for awhile.

That tree you clipped on the last pitch was our belay anchor. Sketchy! bet you could peel it up like a floor mat. Moved vewwy carefully there.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Apr 23, 2014 - 01:18pm PT
Must have been casual. Dude didn't even have to change out of his pajamas to climb it.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Apr 23, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
Vitya, when the man said "Get some!" he didn't mean all of them! ;-)
Weez

climber
East Bay, Ca
  Apr 23, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
very entertaining TR! Great job.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Apr 23, 2014 - 01:44pm PT
#offthebeatenpathbro!!!

Great TR. You guys are out there gettin' it done. Inspired to get of my #fatA**
Levy

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
  Apr 23, 2014 - 01:57pm PT
There have been references to this gem before on this site.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=73501&msg=74064#msg74064

Cool route, thanks for posting the photos.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Apr 23, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
That area around the Tears Amphitheater offers nearly limitless adventure potential

I bet Windfall gets an average of one or two ascents per year

It's maybe my favorite crack climb of its length in the Valley - the setting, line, rock quality, steepness, topout, independence, obscurity, challenge - it's got everything.

But....

You gotta walk uphill for 45 minutes with NO TRAIL

1) Congrats on an another badass first ascent. I am super jealous of all the quality routes you got.

2) I was looking at the left side of amphitheater and wondering what are all those corners and what has been done already. There was some fixed line too. Anyone knows the name of that wall to the left?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Apr 23, 2014 - 02:07pm PT
Great stuff!
Thanks for sharing.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Apr 23, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
I think those fixed ropes are pretty ancient.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Apr 23, 2014 - 03:09pm PT
#YESYESYESYES
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Apr 23, 2014 - 03:15pm PT

Pajamas on the approach eh brah? Rad. Who knew you were pushing the standards of style out there too. Way to keep it real.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Apr 23, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
I think those fixed ropes are pretty ancient.

No mini traxing allowed? :/

Pajamas on the approach eh brah? Rad. Who knew you were pushing the standards of style out there too. Way to keep it real.

Before I became a serious professional rock climbing god, I was a model. My sense of style is quite advanced. General public will have a hard time relating. A bit ahead of the curve you know...
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
  Apr 23, 2014 - 03:56pm PT
Nice
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Apr 23, 2014 - 04:36pm PT
Werner climbed an imposing crack route w a bit of aid on the east side

Any info on what is the route called, what is that wall called and what else has been climbed? Wonder if the new comprehensive guide would have much info on that.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Apr 23, 2014 - 04:42pm PT
It's already in the book, I believe:

Local Motion 5.11d A1
FA: Doug McDonald, Werner Braun, 5/86
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Apr 24, 2014 - 12:21pm PT
A ripoff from one of Clint C. posts dated May 23, 2010 on an earlier thread on Phantom Pinnacle.



edit. more accurate photo credit. Amazing area. I'm going to have to go check it out, especially if few go there.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Apr 23, 2014 - 05:02pm PT
Awesomeness, Dab!!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
  Apr 23, 2014 - 08:34pm PT
Wow! very cool!

A thoroughly enjoyable TR, too. Great pics, great writeup, great humor! Your hashtag remarks were the frosting on the cake, ha!!

TFPU!

I'd like to explore this area. If I understood correctly there's a decent trail - and trailhead - from the parking lot to the top of Stanford Point?

I re-learned awhile ago whenever you have the benefit of a plumb line in your photo orient your pic so it's straight up for the most accurate portrayal. I did that with yours at pitch 4 in my own graphics program. Very steep and overhanging, amazing!

Thanks for the psyche!

P.S. If anyone's got an image or link showing the trail through the woods from parking lot to Stanford Point I'd love to see it. Along with hiking or running time. Post or PM, thanks.

Edit: thanks The Warbler, I'm psyched to research this now and hopefully check out this area new to me.

http://www.sierranewsonline.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=3086:tunnel-view-to-dewey-point-hike&Itemid=535

http://www.yosemitehikes.com/glacier-point-road/dewey-point/dewey-point.htm
julton

climber
  Apr 23, 2014 - 09:26pm PT
Must have been casual. Dude didn't even have to change out of his pajamas to climb it.

Lol!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Apr 23, 2014 - 09:49pm PT
Thanks for sharing your ascent and the quality beta.

Thanks for the additional insight KW.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
  Apr 23, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
Nice TR, I thought that route was properly sandbagged.

That east side wall, yeah! A thing or three waits there.

Rudbud

Gym climber
Marathon, FL
  Apr 24, 2014 - 12:00am PT
#NICEPINKPOINTMOFO
labrat

Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
  Apr 24, 2014 - 12:27am PT
Thanks for the report!

Did you fix the sign?
chappy

Social climber
oakhurst
  Apr 24, 2014 - 01:58am PT
Good job guys. Brings back some memories eh Kev? This is such an amazing place to climb, explore and just hangout. I loved it up there. I always thought the Windjammer was a classic too. Done it three times with various friends. With Kev of course as well as with Ed Barry and once with Charlie Fowler. The first pitch thin interesting 5.10 combo climbing. The way cool pitch through the roof to the classic chimney ending in the final 5.10 offwidth. Castaway is cool too.
Fletcher

Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
  Apr 24, 2014 - 02:12am PT
Superb! Engaging, informative, humble, filled with bravodo and ego, tales of woe and intrigue, and just plain fun! Thank you! I thoroughly enjoyed that.

What is great about the way you recount your experiences is that while I am not able to do what you do today, you present an experience that maybe I could someday do something similar. Maybe not, but you show the realm of possibility for mere mortals.

Now be careful, at this rate, you might become an immortal. But I would continue to read your tales even then. Many of you immortals out there still can weave a good tale.

Cheers,
Eric
nopantsben

climber
europe
  Apr 24, 2014 - 03:01am PT
Wow. really excellent report- thanks a lot! This is the first time I hear about this route, and it looks stellar.
Good job on finding and climbing that thing!
And man, a 45-minute-approach...#INSANEBRO
;-)
MikeL

Social climber
Southern Arizona
  Apr 24, 2014 - 10:10am PT
Your TRs continue to inspire and entertain. TFPU.
fluffy

Trad climber
Colorado
  Apr 24, 2014 - 10:35am PT
Beautiful shots of the Captain!

That 10c pitch looks soooo good. Way to go boys!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Apr 24, 2014 - 11:15am PT
Great report Vitaliy....as always.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Apr 24, 2014 - 04:10pm PT
Yeah, that's a good idea. Maybe when I get a drill I could go retro-bolt that "one move 5.10a" section. LOL
jk

The more I climb in Yosemite, the more objectives for the future I find. Climbing other lines at Amphitheater would be cool. Just need to recruit some people who would be into that sort of thing.
PAGING LIMPINGCRAB! :)
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 24, 2014 - 09:04pm PT
Waaaay to SHRED the GNAR GNAR. # KILLER BRAH!!!!!!!
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
  Apr 25, 2014 - 12:43am PT
Just need to recruit some people who would be into that sort of thing.

I'm your huckleberry!!!
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Apr 25, 2014 - 01:04am PT
Page received.

I'm game under the condition that we'll get to bush whack on the approach, none of this "climber's trail" business! (getting wet feet in a muddy meadow is acceptable too:)

It's funny you responded so quickly to that salamanizer, I keep a list on my computer of people to contact if I'm eying a new route where no normal people will want to go. Even though we haven't met I've got the feeling that you'd be up for it.
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Apr 25, 2014 - 02:26pm PT
now we make out
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
  Apr 26, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
Stunning photos... GREAT TR... TFPU!
namascar

Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
  Apr 26, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
Great Trip, I'll add it to my list
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
  Apr 27, 2014 - 04:25pm PT
Elliott Robinson and I put up the Windchill part of the route many moons ago. I honestly thought no one would be up there ever again. Nice job getting off the beaten track. It was always a blast climbing obscure stuff with Elliott. He spied this one out and we just hiked up there and climbed the thing.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
  Apr 27, 2014 - 06:41pm PT
Sweet!
E Robinson

Trad climber
Salinas, CA
  Apr 28, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
Nice story and photos! Good to hear that the wild spicy-ness still carries on. Greg, I just looked for a copy of our topo and couldn't find it, so bummed :-(
JTiss

Mountain climber
Sandog
  Apr 28, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
Always great to read your TR's Vitaliy. Well written with tons of laughs and pure amazement at your vibrant enthusiasm. Thank you for sharing them all. Keep them coming, please!

J. Tisdale Jr.
Rudbud

Gym climber
Marathon, FL
  Apr 28, 2014 - 02:00pm PT
I'm your huckleberry!!!

http://vimeo.com/65510053

Randy hiking another "climbers trail".
Amy Ness

climber
ND
  Apr 28, 2014 - 02:21pm PT
Awesome work guys! Your pics are amazing
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
  Apr 28, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
Elliott - I jsut sent you a scanned copy of the topo. May 19, 1990!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Apr 28, 2014 - 05:35pm PT
Fun trip report. I wanna go.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Apr 28, 2014 - 05:53pm PT
#AWESOMEOBSCURITIESAGAIN
John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
  Apr 28, 2014 - 05:55pm PT
Nice work!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  May 11, 2014 - 12:00am PT
We got to the the top of Windfall and Gleb took us to the top of the sixth pitch, an awkward 5.7 chimney. I started climbing up the seventh pitch but had some difficulties locating the 5.10c crack till I climbed up and traversed around a corner and to the left from our belay ledge.

"...traversed around a corner..." We went around 17 f'ing corners and could never find the .10c, pffft.

Routefinding: it's harder on the semi-obscure stuff. Better have it dialed or - like us! - suffer the consequences.

But we're alive, didn't shiver out a bivy, made it to work this morning.

Still can't believe that all those runs up Serenity-Sons didn't have us honed on the routefinding front, haha.
wayne burleson

climber
Amherst, MA
  May 5, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
Cool! I looked in my old yellow guide and seem to have done only P1 of both Windjammer and Windfall with Brian Cox in about 1985... I recall that it felt remote and a bit spooky...
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  May 6, 2014 - 10:30am PT
Vitaly, between you and Micronut, the TR standards are set pretty high. Thanks for the post, and for passing on your stoke!
WanderlustMD

Trad climber
New England
  May 10, 2014 - 12:17am PT
Wow that looks amazing
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