Trip Report
Two beautiful November days at TAHQUITZ
Monday November 21, 2016 10:28pm
As this is my first, humble TR... I'll try not to overdo it : )

Just thought I'd share the stoke, from an area that I never would have made it out to without the guideance of the climbing community.

I remember it like it was yesterday.. a 50+ y/o local I'd seen at Stoney Point a few times- keeping to himself as he slowly looped the Boulder 1 traverse, and practiced 'The Pump' with no pad. He kept a little 1x1 carpet square to clean the sand off his shoes and that was it.

After striking up a conversation, I said I was hoping to get some trad routes under my belt.

The Man said, 'Have you been to Tahquitz' ... Me- no, never heard of it. 'Oh It's great'. he said. What came next surprised me and I wouldn't forget it...

'I've been climbing in the Yosemite Valley for 25 years, and I still prefer the actual climbing moves and overall rock quality at tahquitz, to the valley'. Serious praise. I figured it was some form of Hyperbole. You heard of 'THE VAMPIRE'? he said... 'If you can work your way up to that, its one of the finest lines in all of California'. He mentioned it was 5.11, and noted he had been up it 'A couple of times' with a smile.

Either way I knew I had to visit.

Fast-forward two years, and probably a 24-rack of visits to this wonderful and storied crag... (maybe even a keg) and now it seemed second-nature to me. Find a partner, share the experience of bombproof granite, easy approaches, and beautiful and classic lines.

TUES:
Met a friend through the forums on MP. dude was looking to get his first leads in. I was glad to see how he would fare and come along for the ride.

top left corner top right corner
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
the beard right before I had to take serious length off : (
the beard right before I had to take serious length off : (
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
just another gumby marveling at / wondering about his anchor <3
just another gumby marveling at / wondering about his anchor <3
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
love me some 22 degree halos.
love me some 22 degree halos.
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner

After the usual jaunt down the 'friction descent' or as I like to think of it- the most loving and womanly fold of granite on all of Tahquitz... feeling confident in my new compadre's skills, he set off on Fingertrip.

top left corner top right corner
photographer's belay... don't peel
photographer's belay... don't peel
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
crows on the thermals
crows on the thermals
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
P1 finish, with lots of lines above : &#41;
P1 finish, with lots of lines above : )
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
p3 overlaps
p3 overlaps
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
One of those great days where you could see Catalina &#40;not in this ...
One of those great days where you could see Catalina (not in this photo)
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
bye bye, Idyllic Idyllwild.
bye bye, Idyllic Idyllwild.
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner

As fate would have it, I ended up back a mere 36 hours later, to help another Tahquitz virign feel the sacred stone. The day a little less picturesque... the departure from LA a little less early...

top left corner top right corner
don't worry, we had lamps.
don't worry, we had lamps.
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner

being the freelancing, weekday-warriors that we are- we didn't see a single party. I always try to keep it quiet on the crag, as even the light clang of gear has a way of pissing off the town's dogs.

Ever thankful for another opportunity to gain fitness, experience, and memories... This crag is a place I'll always keep close to my heart.

top left corner top right corner
one film photo... why not.
one film photo... why not.
Credit: Yinzer
bottom left corner bottom right corner

phew. my first TR. keep the stoke alive! thank you SuperTopo for all the hype throughout the years.

  Trip Report Views: 3,399
Yinzer
About the Author
Yinzer is a trad climber from Los Angeles, CA.

Comments
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
  Nov 22, 2016 - 05:28am PT
Nice report, thanks for sharing. Tahquitz has many good memories for me.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
  Nov 22, 2016 - 08:11am PT
Thanks for the trip report.
I love that place so much.
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Nov 22, 2016 - 09:47am PT
Thanks for posting! I just put another climbing area on the bucket list...
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 22, 2016 - 09:54am PT
Well done!

Yaay for TR's, first one or not.

Keep 'em coming!
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Nov 22, 2016 - 10:21am PT
TFPU
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Nov 22, 2016 - 10:37am PT
Awesome. Tahquitz is something else.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
  Nov 22, 2016 - 10:54am PT
Nice TR!

Loved how the low sun lit up the Traitor Horn area in one of the photos.

I have been thinking about trying to get back there for a visit next year. Thanks for the motivation!


Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Nov 23, 2016 - 05:09am PT
Thanks for the stoke, would love to get back to Tahquitz myself.
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
  Nov 23, 2016 - 05:46am PT
Tahquitz has some great climbing, good for you.
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Nov 23, 2016 - 08:53am PT
Never been there, but I still liked the report.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Nov 23, 2016 - 09:11am PT
Nice!! Was that first route the Trough? I still have not been on that....an opportunity could be coming up next Spring
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Nov 23, 2016 - 09:48am PT
Hey, thanks for a good climbing post with photos! The P3 overlaps are indeed photogenic. Good birding up there, too.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Nov 23, 2016 - 10:03am PT
Fantastic report. Looks like you did the place justice with your mellow and insightful report. Would love to get down there someday.
Keep writing and posting up!


Scott
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 24, 2016 - 11:53am PT
Quality!
Thanks!
Mar'

Trad climber
Fanta Se
  Nov 24, 2016 - 12:21pm PT
i loves my home crag~ merciiiiiiiiiiii❤︎❤︎❤︎❤︎❤︎❤︎❤︎
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
  Nov 24, 2016 - 03:38pm PT
Tahquitz has always been a favorite!!!

.....oh, those are Common Ravens though. No worries, just something a bird nerd knows.
rincon

climber
Coarsegold
  Nov 24, 2016 - 06:55pm PT
This crag is a place I'll always keep close to my heart.

+1!!!!

Tahquitz, midweek, clear sunny day, perfect.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Nov 24, 2016 - 09:40pm PT
Thanks for the report!
nyssens

Trad climber
Belgium
  Nov 25, 2016 - 06:17am PT
i m going to visit thaquitz next easter holidays & i m super excited. approaching 50+ y, every new place to visit and climb is a golden gift !! thx for sharing this adventure !!
Yinzer

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Author's Reply  Nov 25, 2016 - 04:05pm PT
Dee dee, yes common ravens in that photo... but Darwin is right- good birding around that area and the summit. Seasonally you get some wonderful swallow families (maybe swifts?) swooping around.

On the windier days I've seen families of some sort of mexico-parrot/ mountain parrot/parakeet shaped bird, (grey with white head). Sometimes you get hummingbirds.

I posted the FLY / bee photo because I have heard mention of 'africanized bees' on some routes. Don't think this was them, but the place was buzzing, and they were cool black&white versions of little hornet/fly type things. maybe localized.

I think I've seen some migrating birds occasionally passing through at higher altitudes. woodpeckers as well. My favorite are the swallows or swifts.

Adubon Society for the win! Thanks for the support guys! Get out there!

and 50+ is the perfect age to break the seal on tahquitz. You'll cruise the easy routes & enjoy the workout. <3
Karen

Trad climber
Prescott, AZ ~
  Nov 25, 2016 - 08:29pm PT
Nice tr and very much enjoyed! It brought back many memories of climbing Tahquitz, I miss climbing there. However, reading your tr was uplifting and a fun read.
Karen
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
  Nov 30, 2016 - 09:02am PT
Mr Yinzer,
It would be perfectly wonderful for you to post more TR's here. Nice pics, great rock, and good, wholesome vibe. Nicely done. Hope to hear from you again.
cheers
Tom Patterson

Trad climber
Seattle
  Nov 30, 2016 - 09:08am PT
Great TR, yinzer! I've spent a lot of time there, but haven't been on it since the 90s. Aside from the fun pics from routes I've done, I love your positive stoke.

More!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Nov 30, 2016 - 02:57pm PT
I wish it were closer. tfpu
bootysatva

Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
  Dec 25, 2016 - 05:38pm PT
After 41 seasons here in Idyllwild, I have no plans to stop climbing on Tahquitz and the hundreds of surrounding crags.
Thanks for the pictures.
Ernesto
Go