Trip Report
The Technician

by Big Mike
Tuesday November 25, 2014 12:17pm
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Hannah on the Technician 12b, Little Smoke Bluffs, Squamish, BC
Hannah on the Technician 12b, Little Smoke Bluffs, Squamish, BC
Credit: Big Mike
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EDIT
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Smoke Bluffs, Squamish, BC, Canada;

It was a beautiful fall day. A bit crisp. The temps were perfect for sending and I was sans partner.

I called Brownie because I knew he was working on The Technician and took my gear just in case.

When i arrived Kieran was just about to jump on it, so I ran around and set up a rope.

Going for the crimp on The Technician 12b

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Grant and Hannah tr'd it again while I chilled with Brownie.

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I didn't bring my jugs, but i always have my grigri and a prussic, and Hannah decided to lead it, so I climbed my only "pitch" of the day..

Hannah starting out on The Technician 12b

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Working the horizontal

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Next, grab on to nothing...

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Then paste your foot high and reach for the nickel edge.

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The ol' match n' clip

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I know, I know.. The magazine angle is verboten....

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;)

Focused on the mono pocket

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The mono pocket

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Get there!

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Push!

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If you look closely at her left foot, you will notice her toe literally just blew.

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Close! Nice try Hannah!!

Kieran had another go

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But he was having a high gravity day and kept blowing off here:

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After we went bouldering and it was freezing in the forest! :)

  Trip Report Views: 5,365
Big Mike 		About the Author
Big Mike is a trad climber/sci survivor who also happens to love taking photos.

Comments
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Nov 25, 2014 - 12:22pm PT
Next, grab on to nothing...

It looks like that could describe the entire route! Thanks for the inspiring TR and wonderful pictures.

John
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
  Nov 25, 2014 - 12:42pm PT
What it's all about. Looks like great fun.
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Nov 25, 2014 - 01:25pm PT
Nice....Love that slabby crimpy stuff.....Thanx for sharing....

Stevo
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Nov 25, 2014 - 01:30pm PT
You sure that is not the sidewalk from Monty Python?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Nov 25, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
5.hard
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 25, 2014 - 01:51pm PT
Looks a wee bit thin.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 25, 2014 - 01:57pm PT
12b slab.....yikes!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 25, 2014 - 02:29pm PT
Looks heinously hard and cool! Thank you for posting. We need some FRICTION up in hurrrrr!
RyanD

climber
  Nov 25, 2014 - 02:45pm PT
Donini, it's your dream climb!

9M tall

Not sustained

Slabby

Good winter climb.

Nice pics Mike.



le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Nov 25, 2014 - 03:13pm PT
AWESOME

This is a great shot, Mike. Only on slabs can you "lock off" (or psuedo lock-off) on things and yard 'em well below your knees!
wilbeer

Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
  Nov 25, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
That all looks good.
RyanD

climber
  Nov 25, 2014 - 05:59pm PT
Jebus, the seam to the right is a 10a called "out to lunge" it's pretty fun, but short as well.

There's also a nice 5.6 on this cliff called Easter island which is short but good value.

Here's another angle of my friend Jay on the route being reported on which I posted the other day, you can see a bolt in the foreground which is young Marc's slab mega project, estimated to be 13+ which when completed will be a contender for the hardest slab climbing at Squamish.




Lebruce! That's not a lock off! It's a thumb press!
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Nov 25, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
This TR has made me wonder what the hardest trad slab route in NA was????Just a thought....

Stevo
SeaToSky

Mountain climber
Fresno, CA
  Nov 25, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
Thans for sharing, Mike! I've always marvelled at that climb!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Author's Reply  Nov 25, 2014 - 08:07pm PT
It looks like that could describe the entire route! Thanks for the inspiring TR and wonderful pictures.

lol. Exactly John. I didn't even fathom trying it. Maybe after I work on a few more 11's. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

You're welcome Moose! ;)

What it's all about. Looks like great fun.

Every day in November is a gift and those kind of temperatures (40's) are high friction.

It's calling your name Jer!

Thanks for the climbing content, sweet pics, and stoke!
You're welcome Wes. I'll get back to those Vegas photos soon.

You're welcome Tad!

Nice....Love that slabby crimpy stuff.....Thanx for sharing....

Dries up super quick too so perfect for winter climbing! You're welcome.

You sure that is not the sidewalk from Monty Python?

lol John! you got me again! how did you know!!!?? ;)

5.hard
5 melted rubber...

Looks a wee bit thin.
Ya buddy! We have lots of nice low angle super sticky moderate slabs too. You won't regret a visit Mike! :)

12b slab.....yikes!!!
Right up your alley Jim! you'd hike it! ;)

Looks heinously hard and cool! Thank you for posting. We need some FRICTION up in hurrrrr!

ye buddy! High Friction!!

Nice pics Mike.
Thanks bud. Wish u were there!

This is a great shot, Mike. Only on slabs can you "lock off" (or psuedo lock-off) on things and yard 'em well below your knees!

Thanks lebruce! since you like it some much, I have a treat for ya.


The colder temps are all about the friction routes! Nice shots!

Thanks Jeebs! Ya Out to Lunge is really fun! it starts with a crack too.

Love that dark rock. Reminds me of Index. I ripped the most hideous flapper on that damn mono. Fun route...way tough. Especially on a day like we had. Warm and schwetty. Nice pics!!!

Thanks! ya these routes are best done in the fall or winter for high friction.

Thanks Willbeer!

There's also a nice 5.6 on this cliff called Easter island which is short but good value.

You Sandbagger you Ryan!! :) It's every bit of it's 5.8 rating... at the bottom. ;)



Lebruce! That's not a lock off! It's a thumb press!


Actually for Hannah it seems to be a two finger stack with her index finger pressuring her middle finger.


This TR has made me wonder what the hardest trad slab route in NA was????Just a thought....

looks like the hardest one in the world is in the uk 5.14d not sure about NA?

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/meltdown-9a-worlds-hardest-slab-climb

Thanks for sharing, Mike! I've always marveled at that climb!
You're welcome Joe! Ya every since i saw Hevy working it I've looked at in awe.
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Nov 25, 2014 - 09:01pm PT
Thanx Mike. A bud of mine and I did a FA on a slab in the Kananaskis Country of Alberta that we rated an 11+. We used a couple of small stoppers and a bunch of RP'S it was despo to say the least....Thanx again for the fine TR....

Stevo
alannamal

climber
B.C.
  Nov 25, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
Yeah Hannah! Island girl continues to crush. Great photos, thanks!
RyanD

climber
  Nov 25, 2014 - 10:50pm PT
You Sandbagger you Ryan!! :) It's every bit of it's 5.8 rating... at the bottom. ;)


Everyone knows the first 10' of a climb don't count for the grade, even if it is only 25' high :-)

I think you are being serious tho, when did Easter island start getting called 5.8?


That close up of whatever Hannah is doing to that monodoigt is crazy, the beta we sorted you put your thumb down in there and pretend your gouging out the eyes of the devil himself.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Nov 26, 2014 - 03:54am PT
thanks mike.

way mild autumn, eh?
down here too.
WanderlustMD

Trad climber
New England
  Nov 26, 2014 - 10:33am PT
Love it!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Author's Reply  Nov 26, 2014 - 01:04pm PT
Thanx Mike. A bud of mine and I did a FA on a slab in the Kananaskis Country of Alberta that we rated an 11+. We used a couple of small stoppers and a bunch of RP'S it was despo to say the least....Thanx again for the fine TR....

That sounds dicey indeed!! Where is the tr for that! ;)


Yeah Hannah! Island girl continues to crush. Great photos, thanks!

Your welcome! It was a pleasure to shoot with her!!


I think you are being serious tho, when did Easter island start getting called 5.8?

Umm it is in all three guides i own? Lol


way mild autumn, eh?
down here too.

Ya dude! It's winter now tho..

Love it!

Thanks!!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 26, 2014 - 05:30pm PT
Nice mike, impressive slabin!!!
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Nov 26, 2014 - 05:33pm PT
Fun stuff. I done my share of slabs, but never 12b.
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Nov 26, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
Mike. Not much of a trip to report. We found a steep slab on the way into a mountaineering outing. My mates and I were doing a lot of exploring and new route creation at the time so we came back to the slab to see if it was worth climbing, as it turned out it was. Ended up doing 3 or 4 nice steep limestone climbs the hardest being one we called Eclipse 10.d 30m protection was in thin water runnels and solution pockets. Others climbed it and it was rounded out to a solid 11+. We named the area Half Moon Crag in the Highwood Range west of Longview AB........Good fun......

Stevo
Mark Sensenbach

climber
CA
  Dec 3, 2014 - 05:45pm PT
Super cool post! thanks- really like the sequence of attempts. -m
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
  Dec 3, 2014 - 05:53pm PT
Had to revisit this one. The Squamish area taught me a lot about
hard slab . Your post brings it all back , thanks Big Mike
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Dec 3, 2014 - 06:00pm PT
Nice shooting Mike! That thing looks fun, maybe sometime you can get me falling on it. See you soon. Oh yeah, is it snowing good yet?
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
  Dec 3, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
awesome Hannah! nice tr thanks Mike for posting
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Dec 3, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
That is some fun looking climbing.
RyanD

climber
  Dec 3, 2014 - 06:44pm PT
Bring your climbing shoes when u visit the resort this winter Justin & spend all ur lift ticket $$ on weed & scrub brushes, blow ur family off and come slab out in Squam. Well maybe bring your brother.

Don't worry the ride will be worth the price of admission. Falling pics of urself are included.

Don't blaze?

No problem, we do :-)
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Dec 3, 2014 - 07:19pm PT
Haha, f*#king funny Ryan. Yeah I don't blaze, but I'm really good at watching people do it. Be up there Jan 31-Feb 7.
If the snow isn't happening, that would be way cool to cruise down to Squamish. Regardless, would be cool to have some beers with you man.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Dec 3, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
Cool stuff, Big Mike.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
Nice mike, impressive slabin!!!

Thanks Ezra!

Fun stuff. I done my share of slabs, but never 12b.

I know. Maybe i'll get on it one of these days..

Thanks for the story stevo!

Super cool post! thanks- really like the sequence of attempts. -m

Thanks Mark!


Had to revisit this one. The Squamish area taught me a lot about
hard slab . Your post brings it all back , thanks Big Mike

Your welcome Ground_up! Maybe a return is in order? ;)


Nice shooting Mike! That thing looks fun, maybe sometime you can get me falling on it. See you soon. Oh yeah, is it snowing good yet?

Thanks Justin! Ya for sure! I hope it's puking while your here, it's supposed to start snowing again this weekend.


awesome Hannah! nice tr thanks Mike for posting

Thanks Mo! Let's tie in together next year.


That is some fun looking climbing.

Slabtastic!

Bring your climbing shoes when u visit the resort this winter Justin & spend all ur lift ticket $$ on weed & scrub brushes, blow ur family off and come slab out in Squam. Well maybe bring your brother.

Lol Ryan!! That would be funny to Justin actually clean a route.. Lol

Thanks Crankster!
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Dec 3, 2014 - 10:18pm PT
Cool report and great pics as always - TFPU! Tuolumne has taught me alot about slab climbing, would love to check-out Squamish someday!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Author's Reply  Apr 27, 2019 - 11:30am PT
Thanks Ed!!

What happened to all my photos yo!!!!! Check this report out in all it's glory at:

https://steemit.com/rockclimbing/@squamishphotos/the-technician

And come visit me on telegram at: https://t.me/squamishphotosandstories
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Author's Reply  Apr 27, 2019 - 12:24pm PT
Hell Yes brother!!! Justin has my contact deets or send me a message on here!! And kidnap Jefe for sure!!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Republic, WA
  Apr 27, 2019 - 02:10pm PT
Mike, I lost your contact info. Do you have my number here in Republic? Seattle is history. Call me.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Apr 27, 2019 - 03:43pm PT
Greetings, Mike.

What's telegram? Does Squamish Photos and Stories really have only 2 members?
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Apr 27, 2019 - 05:51pm PT
hey there say, big mike...

say, where have you been, :) ?

also, please check your facebook message...
i had a wrong address and the card that i sent you,
at chrismas, came back, :O
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Author's Reply  Apr 27, 2019 - 09:55pm PT
-Wayno! I will search my records tonight and hopefully you will hear from me tomorrow :)

-Jer Bring your sending shoes!!

-Andy It's where I've been hiding for the last year! ;) It's a chat app with a built in voice calling feature and much more. I started the group today as a gathering place that would be inclusive of all members.(but i am admin of) ;) Feel free to become the third member. Very exclusive so far. ;)

-Neebs! So sorry i missed your card! I recently moved so I guess they sent it back! I'll hit you up on Facebook :)

As Dru so eloquently stated I've been too busy shilling vegetable backed currencies lately! :) Been working tons, and feeling a bit withdrawn again tbh but fighting through the fog now and coming up for air.:)
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