Linda and I had it on our list, this last Sunday we went and did it... we had also convinced Allyson and Ted to also, so we had a great little party on all the fantastic belay ledges up the route...
Here is the way we went
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 the way we went... Credit: Ed Hartouni |
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a slight variation on the pitches to get off, going the very easy way to the top and then walking down to the west over Harlequin Dome's shoulder.
The first pitch is shared with Hoodwink and is a very interesting 5.8, with some steep powerful moves before gaining a complex ledge system. I lead that one and ran into some difficulty where I hadn't before, and did the previously difficult stuff without much effort...
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 At the first belay Credit: Ed Hartouni |
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Linda lead pitch 2, which is an unrelenting set of mantels... usually protected, but managing the rope drag is a real premium... some interesting dike walking to connect the bolts, and a final mantel to a diagonally crack that takes you up to the west side of the roof... a good place to belay. Ted declared this pitch "exciting" and "full value." I concur!
Here Allyson launches off on the 3rd pitch while Linda belays me, just before I do that last ass kicking mantel to finish the 2nd.
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 Allyson starting the third pitch... Linda belaying me up on the second pitch... Credit: Ed Hartouni |
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I got to lead the traversing pitch under the roof... wow! what a great pitch... I thought for sure I wouldn't make it but there is enough there, hands and feet... though I didn't protect the last third because the clock was definitely ticking. I did finish by not putting any pro in to get on top of yet another great ledge and belayed Linda on that unprotected part pretty much from above.
The "sting" is that last bit to the main ledge... here Linda is getting into the bidness...
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 Linda at the crux of the short but fierce fourth pitch Credit: Ed Hartouni |
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which is hard to describe, but it is yet another pretty powerful set of moves...
We then traversed off to the tree, which is not on this route, but is a very mellow way to end...
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 Linda waiting for me to get my act together to traverse to the tree... Credit: Ed Hartouni |
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Up the corner and onto the broad top...
Had a great day on a great climb with some wonderful partners.
