Trip Report
OW pitch on Reed's Direct, 2005: reunite these pics with the climber!

by NutAgain!
Wednesday February 22, 2017 10:46am
I have no idea who this is. It was mid/late winter 2005, the first year I started climbing in Yosemite regularly. My partner and I did first pitch of regular, then the 2nd pitch of direct, then did-the sideways tunnel-through pitch and up the left side to summit the pinnacle. I took these pics of some other dude doing the OW side. I like the smile when his hand slaps the top. I wouldn't experience that feeling myself for another 3-5 years after these pics were taken.

So post up if you recognize this guy and we can get him some glory photos! I have more.

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Credit: NutAgain!
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Credit: NutAgain!
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Credit: NutAgain!
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^^^ did I get the camera case in the middle of a great shot?

top left corner top right corner
Credit: NutAgain!
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Credit: NutAgain!
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Credit: NutAgain!
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NutAgain! 		About the Author
NutAgain! is a trad climber from South Pasadena, CA.

Comments
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Feb 22, 2017 - 11:04am PT
glory top out!
Urmas

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
  Feb 22, 2017 - 10:06pm PT
Why do people call this an OW? It's a flared squeeze chimney with fingertip crack holds for hands and feet - you can see the pictured climber taking full advantage of the tips cracks. It may look intimidating, and some might dismiss it as just some OW grunt, so they can feel OK about giving it a pass, but c'mon guys, it's no off width!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
Author's Reply  Feb 22, 2017 - 10:21pm PT
I was pretty intimidated when I did it... relatively easy back/knee chimney in the beginning that gets wider and insecure with no/bad pro and a bouncy landing, and the top is pretty awkward moves but with great pro to make it more casual. It's only 5.10a so it can't really be too bad.

As far as "off width": in the bottom it is in between back/knee and back/feet, and at the top you can't do a pure handjam or fist jam or rely exclusively on a leg locked off, and you can't fit in both arms to get a stack or anything. That's good enough for me to call it an in-between or "off" width.
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