Trip Report
Northwest Books (TR)
Monday June 25, 2007 3:06pm
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I know, I know, a TR about a 5.6 climb is kinda weak but I'm gonna tell it anyway. All my usual partners were injured or busy but a German buddy of mine hadn't ever been to Tuolumne and was eager to do his first multi-pitch climb...so it was on! I figured Northwest Books on Lembert would be perfect because I had never led all of it and it's a beautiful and easy multi-pitch in a stunning setting. We drove all day Friday and decided to knock it out Friday late afternoon, leaving all Saturday to do other things.
We arrive at the rock at 4:30pm and I point to the route.
Missing photo ID#124644 For those who don't know it, it follow the obvious 'books'.
Missing photo ID#124645 Scramble up to the base. Peter (my buddy) found the perfect Tuolumne souvenir here...a medium-sized stopper someone must have dropped. Sweet!
Missing photo ID#124646 I decided to do the 3 pitch variation (instead of 2 long ones) and Peter decided to take a self-portrait at the first belay.
Missing photo ID#124647 I really, really had to pee so I relieved myself in a discreet crack and Peter caught me finishing up. The 5.9 variation follows the crack straight up from this belay.
Missing photo ID#124648 At the top of the route I got a nice pic of what a very happy German looks like after his first multi-pitch.
Missing photo ID#124649 We opted for the longer, easier walk-off. It was probably a good idea because even on this walk-off I could hear Peter cursing in German as we came down the slabs.
Missing photo ID#124650
It was a great time. We spent the rest of the trip kicking back and doing some top-ropes on the Western Front. The 5.10's there are really nice and give you an idea knob-climbing Tuolumne-style. I think Peter commented that those 5.9 and 5.10 knob climbs were considerably harder than 5.10's in the gym. Yep, they sure are...welcome to Tuolumne Meadows!
Edit: Sorry for the thumbnail pics...I'm trying to figure out what I did wrong. Click on 'em to view 'em until I fix it. Ahhh, that's better now.
bluering
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About the Author bluering is a trad climber from Santa Clara, Ca.. |
Comments
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 25, 2007 - 04:59pm PT
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Nice photos.
Not sure if you meant you hid in a crack to pee, or peed in a crack, but it's best to pee out on a face so it evaporates, not in a crack where it takes longer to evaporate.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jun 25, 2007 - 06:04pm PT
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Oh no, a 5.6 route, groan :) At the moment I would love to be climbing basically anything ...
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Dragon with Matches
climber
Bamboo Grove
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Jun 25, 2007 - 06:17pm PT
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Very sweet pics of the sweetest place on the planet.
Except for the well-timed shot your buddy took of crime in process.
Dude! Don't piss there!!
Easy or not, I love the Books. Lembert's NW side is golden.
Like a shower.
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pimp daddy wayne
Gym climber
Manchester, VT
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Jun 25, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
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sick... i'd much rather see a cool trip report that talk politics. killer....
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jun 25, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
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Met you guys on the slabs while I was lounging at Lembert in the evening on Friday. Cool beans for your bud and his first multi pitch!
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Jun 25, 2007 - 10:24pm PT
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Did I see that summit photo of the German correct?
Looks like he is tied into his belay loop... Not so good.
Looks like everybody had a good time.
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Zander
climber
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Jun 25, 2007 - 11:27pm PT
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Thanks for the TR. I love that route. Climbed it a bunch of times.
Zander
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Jun 26, 2007 - 01:09am PT
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thanks, that route is on a great formation with great views.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
@dodrillphoto
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Jun 26, 2007 - 03:50am PT
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Vie es de jer man tied to der belay loop? Voops! Just vundering.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Jun 26, 2007 - 10:16am PT
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I have a couple of (not so great) photos of my ex when we did the route in August 1993. She hadn't climbed much before (one VS in the Lake District, her first climb and she came through with flying colors, and some up in Llanberis Pass and Snowdonia in north Wales when we lived there).
The best shot is of her with arms raised (celebrating) with Cathedral Peak and the Meadows behind and below her. Sort of like that shot of Peter above. I love the view of the Meadows from the top of Lembert. Sigh, it's been so long and too long - August 1993.
I'll post the pix. The NW Books is an ideal climb for people who haven't climbed much. I did the 5.9 variation with no pro so Marie could do the regular way without having to clean any gear. It's such a fun climb.
A great climb and cool TR Bluering.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 26, 2007 - 10:32am PT
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I need to be savoring the flavor of those T Meadows right now, so thanks!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jun 26, 2007 - 12:19pm PT
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Yeah, I didn't notice the belay-loop tie in until the 2nd belay station but I figured since he wasn't leading and would only be putting body weight on it I didn't say anything. When I see him for local climbs this weekend I'll point that out to him. He does climb in gyms though, don't they insist on through both harness strap tie-ins?
Edit: James, was that you with the big dog and the hot-looking wife? I remember you guys.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jun 26, 2007 - 01:12pm PT
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5.6, 5.11, 5.12dX... whatever? Great TR
Prod.
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L
climber
Just livin' the dream
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Jun 26, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
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Hey Bluering,
Who cares what the rating when you have photos from such a beautiful place? Really nice TR...except for one small detail...
Jeeeeez Man! Did you have to piss all over the thing by putting in that shot of you urinating??????? :-)
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Jun 26, 2008 - 06:06pm PT
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So how many have climbed the 5.9 variation and what was it like? It seems like a lot of the mellow routes such as this one might be spiced up a bit by harder variations.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jun 26, 2008 - 06:08pm PT
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I haven't done the 5.9 variation yet but it seemed pretty straight forward jamming, and it's not that long, maybe 20 feet of crack.
...from what I remember.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jun 26, 2008 - 06:11pm PT
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Crack in a corner, fingers and hands, footholds to stem onto.
Worthwhile.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Redwood City
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Jun 26, 2008 - 06:11pm PT
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at least he didn't poop in the crack, nice Tr blueballs
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dirtbag
climber
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Jun 26, 2008 - 06:20pm PT
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Very enjoyable TR Bluering.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Jun 26, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
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The 5.9 var. is fun and mellow though short, but maybe smells like urine now?
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Jun 26, 2008 - 06:30pm PT
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Seems like I read somewhere (YOSAR site?) about an accident on the 5.9 part.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jun 26, 2008 - 06:31pm PT
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The TR is from last year, just so y'all know. And by now the urine should be washed from the base of the 5.9 variation. I tried to pee somewhere I knew no hands would venture.
I really had to go.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jun 26, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
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from the YOSAR link..."Together they splinted the obviously broken ankle with the Supertopo guide and tape. "
Nice!
It sounds like if he was really on the mid point of pitch 2, he would above the 5.9 section and sitting at the little tree before the 'awkward' offwidth section. The crack he must have been referring to was the 5.5 awkward OW and he was probably off route by going straight up from the intermidiate belay.
The other guy who fell on pitch 3, that was just kinda unfortunate, the 3rd pitch is pretty easy and straightforward after the awkward OW.
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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Jun 26, 2008 - 06:57pm PT
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I'll bet both of you had a great time, that's what it is all about.
Thanks for the TR, good times in the meadows
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 26, 2008 - 07:02pm PT
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You did a climb and it moved you enough to talk about it. That's what climbing is all about. Grades and ratings are pretty much irrelevant unless they do something to add to the story.
Nice, thanks.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Jun 26, 2008 - 07:08pm PT
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I took my ex-girlfriend up that in August 1993. I led the 5.9 variation with no pro so that she could do the regular route without having to clean any pro on the variation. She had only really climbed once before on a VS in the Lake District and some top ropes in northern Wales when we lived outside of Bangor.
I have a couple of pics, that aren't great, but I'll dig them up and post them. It's a fun route.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 27, 2008 - 01:01am PT
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Thanks for the TR and Images.
I wonder how some folks mental images of Bluering match up with the reality. He one of a kind, not a madeinamold kinda guy.
Peace
karl
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jun 16, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
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Alright I'm bumping this, I'm trying to talk a new trad leader into taking his wife up this with me...
Badass!!!! (and easy too)
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 16, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
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Nice bump!
Somehow I never saw this, looks fun!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 16, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
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Sweet, missed this Bluey! Looks like good fun with beverages!
Remember Beer BAndolier!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jun 16, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
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das gud!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jun 16, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
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Yeah, mucci, I was plowing a couple at the base, knowing we had to get her done, hence, the rest stop.
Peter was an awesome dude and partner. He's in Arizona now doing a Physics PhD. Crazy Germans!
I really need to locate my bandolier...
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jun 16, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
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Good memories .. have to do it again this year !
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couchmaster
climber
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Jun 17, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
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People should be encouraged, or even forced, to post pictures of sweet sweet granite.
Thank you for the buzz!
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Jun 17, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
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One of my favorite chill climbs.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jun 23, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
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Looks like I may be taking more people up this on the upcoming weekend, anybody gonna be around that vicinity? Let's do a conga-line up it!
It's my textbook first multi-pitch or first trad lead....
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jun 24, 2009 - 12:31am PT
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Hey, that was MY first multi-pitch!
ummm... oh what the hell, Wow, is that German guy CUTE! Arizona, you say?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 24, 2009 - 12:34am PT
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Yur Goonnnaa Diee!!! Bump
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 14, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
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I liked it, and my daughter liked it.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Jul 14, 2009 - 02:45pm PT
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Bluering you are right you are pretty weak. Not only because of the big dumb rack you took for NW books, but mainly because you pissed right where EVERYONE climbs.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jul 14, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
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Scooter, if you've ever done the route, and it sounds like you have, you'd know that I'm over to the left of the 5.9 variation and way left of the standard route.
I've never seen anybody use that crack I'm peeing into, why would you?
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Jul 14, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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youre only an arms length away from the 5.9 variation. Which, by the way, I used to do nearly everyday (7 seasons) as my strechout/warm-up right after coffee. Every time it rains or sprinkles your pee-stink is going to be reacivated. Someone may even accidently spill a little water from the bottle, pee-stink reactivated. All that I am saying is, I know it was funny and novel for you, I just don't like the pee smell on ledges I like to hang out on.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jul 14, 2009 - 04:44pm PT
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Somehow I suspect that the snowmelt of two winters has washed away any trace of Mr. Bluering's, ah, urgency .. :) Didn't smell a thing when we were up there on Sunday afternoon.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jul 14, 2009 - 04:44pm PT
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Scotter,
No one likes piss ledges but we've all had to go upon occasion and do our best to go in the best possible place given the situation. I'm quite familiar with Blueys faults but pissing on route is not one of them - I'm sure Bluey did the best he could.
Also did you notice the date this TR is from 2007???
I don't think I've heard anyone saying it's a piss ledge up there in the last two years...Moreover Lembert gets washed clean yearly - we aint talking about about camp 6 on the nose.
kev
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Jul 14, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
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camp 6 had to get that way somehow.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jul 14, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
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Um camp 6 doesn't get covered with snow or washed like lembert plus it's a wall - we are talking about the captain vs lembert WAY fricking different with respect to snow, rain, overhangingness etc...
Think about it dude, your comment is not logical and does not follow. So I don't buy what your selling and nor will most....
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Jul 14, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
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I can put an end to any pi$$ing match. I was up there later that summer and did the 5.9 variation, which is clearly being peed upon by the OP. It did not smell of urine.
I'm not suggesting everyone should run up there and hose that ledge down, I'm just saying Bluering's episode did not appear to cause permanent damage.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 14, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
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Bluey, you can pee on any of my routes, but only if your drinking.
Having to break the seal mid pitch is bothersome, good thing you were close to the belay!
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L
climber
Just livin' the dream
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Jul 14, 2009 - 06:16pm PT
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I loved this TR...even with the smell of urine attached. My only complaint was that he gave us a visual of the deadly deed. ;-)
But when you get to know Bluey, it just makes you laugh.
Thanks for bumping an awesome TR.
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A fine route to introduce yourself to Tuolumne climbing. Photo: Greg Barnes
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