Trip Report
New Wave, Chapel Wall
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Monday June 23, 2014 9:32pm
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Spent yesterday enjoying a perfect day in the Valley at the Chapel Wall. Climbed Gold Dust, Drive By Shooting and New Wave. Hope you enjoy this video I made of my friend Mike climbing New Wave.
[ Click to View YouTube Video]
Thanks to Jay Smith, Mark Carpenter and Ken Ariza for finding and bolting this awesome climb. If you haven't tried it, go do it! Shady and cool in the summer, and stays dry in the rain.
Enjoy!
Kalen
karodrinker
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About the Author
Kalen Glenn is from San Jose, CA. |
Comments
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jun 24, 2014 - 10:50am PT
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Sweet! Nice and concise. Dug the music, too.
Did you edit out the crux pulls, after the second bolt? That part gave me hell and I was getting ready to see how he did it.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jun 24, 2014 - 11:17am PT
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Really awesome freaking video. Seriously. Your friend got some badass technique, loved watching him climb.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jun 24, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
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Le Bruce, just uploaded a pic of the move you might be talking about. I almost fell of of the corner move on the roof, but was able to re set my feet and lunge up to the good right hand hold up high in the corner.
V- thanks man means a lot. I love climbing with Michael, always pushes me to climb harder. His nickname is psyched Mike, and it is easy to know why once you meet him.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jun 25, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
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cool video.
I camped with Mike for a couple night at Shuteye a couple months ago. Super mellow, humble and nice guy. I could sense he climbed hard.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Newbury Park
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Jun 25, 2014 - 12:14pm PT
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That was fun. Thanks!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 25, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
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Great video. Thanks for posting. Now that I'm old and have nothing left for which to live, it's too bad I'm too out of shape to try the route!
John
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jun 25, 2014 - 05:10pm PT
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Nice video. Reminds me of Kauk's climbing.
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snyd
Sport climber
Lexington, KY
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Jun 25, 2014 - 04:19pm PT
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Damn! Looks like the original bolts! Those dudes were all hopped up on weed and cough syrup... sporty.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Jun 25, 2014 - 09:07pm PT
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A nicely shot video and I agree with Breedlove... Could be Ron in disguise!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jun 26, 2014 - 12:07am PT
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Excellent rock in that area. I remember Drive by Shooting as a very fun route.
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RyanD
climber
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Jun 26, 2014 - 12:10am PT
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I'll say it again, great edit worthy of its own TR. Thank you this route looks awesome, yet another to the list.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jun 27, 2014 - 10:33am PT
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Was that someone drinking unfiltered water out of a stream in Yosemite?
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jun 27, 2014 - 11:31am PT
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Fern spring.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jun 29, 2014 - 12:45pm PT
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Nice pic you added, Karo! Watched the vid again, such a good job editing. Do you use Premiere, After Effects, other?
Also noticed that your partner didn't even stem or chimney off of the back wall at the start... Nice!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jun 29, 2014 - 01:23pm PT
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Cool!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jun 29, 2014 - 01:29pm PT
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Fun. Psyched Mike is good!
BAd
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jun 29, 2014 - 01:41pm PT
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everything about this was great!
Karo - john took that #6 cam we got from you up Zodiac last week
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chappy
Social climber
oakhurst
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Jun 29, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
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Hey Kalen,
I just realized your my friend Blair's son. Nice video. Its been years since I've done that route (or for that matter climbed in the Chapel Wall area. Great routes there. Climbing in the shade in June is awesome!
Chappy
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damienn
Trad climber
nevada city
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Jun 30, 2014 - 08:53am PT
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Psyched Mike you're a celebrity!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 30, 2014 - 09:57am PT
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great edit...also curious as to what editor you're using.
thanks for posting,
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jun 30, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
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Thanks for the feedback!
Chappy, I am Blairs son, we met a long time ago when I was just a kid, you took us to the Knobby Wall. Give my Dad a call and lets drag him out climbing, he needs it.
I used Premiere, been trying to clean up my skills a bit, really cool to see that you guys are liking it.
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Chapel Wall overview Photo: Chris McNamara
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