Trip Report
Eeyonkee and Lucille, a wild Weekend
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Thursday August 11, 2011 12:20pm
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So, Eeyonkee, aka Grug, otherwise known in some circles, as Greg Cameron, Wyde climber Extraordinaire, set his sights on The Vedawuoo Squeeze Chimney Roof known as Lucille .13a, and along the way showed us a lot.
As a fun and motivational project he started a thread, "The Road to Lucille" here on the Taco to elicit route and training Beta, and track his own progress toward this. Another thread even started to wager on his success. Alas, surely by now we all know it's the journey, not the destination....
Here is what went down that weekend.
Grug and I both arrived in Vedauwoo Friday afternoon. We shot the sh#t and discussed plans as we awaited the arrival of Em of Wyde, Goatboy and Elizabeth, aka Grug's better half. Mike Friedrichs, my partner on the first ascent was scheduled in on Saturday morning.
After discussion and unwinding, Greg decided he wanted to do some warm up climbs on Saturday to slide into the Vibe of Lucille.
It has been said that slab climbing is the closest hing to offwidth, so our first objective Saturday morning was the Hull boulder. An odd slab that seems too low angled to even be a climb, that none the less kicks ass. It was first done in 1965 in Mtn boots. A historic Theme started to take place for the weekend.
First up was Em, who two years ago had failed to summit, claiming "I am not a boulderer" -Ed Hartouni, has Video!
I guess two years in Paradise with it's adjacent Happy Boulders and Buttermilks had honed her confidence.
as, this time she just walked up it.
and topped out
Grug and I went next, Grug actually finding multiple paths up. Then Goatboy upped the ante with a different method;
currently,
a work,
in Progress,
So after these shenanigans, we found ourselves here,
Grug, Lucille, Elizabeth, Em, butterflys and Jerry Mathers as the Goat...
to warm up on Best of the Blues (.10d fa Bill roberts, me, bob Scarpelli, Frank,(the colonel) Sanders, 1979 ) and get a closer look
what were you thinking, here Grug?
Next up was agony of Da Feet .10b OW. An alternate approach pitch to Lucille put up by the late Bill Roberts and myself in 1979
Later that day we were joined by Gal, Mike F and Shiho and decided to cool down
with The Classic, Cupcake Boulder. Grug decided to put up a Toprope, in style,Gal Belaying
And that was Saturday, Sunday found us getting up to Hassler's Hatbox via varying trails; Goatboy, and Gal's, "Rocketdog", Asia, were the advanced scouts.
I scooted up Walt's Wall to take some Shots of Em and Gal climbing the classic Edward's crack.
The team assembled, we staged below Hassler's Hatbox
Grug made quick work of Best 'o the Blues, and belayed Mike up,
The time then, was now, so off and up, went the Eeyonkee.
Somewhere iamidst the drama, we in the peanut gallery were joined by The One and only Bill Kuestner, aka Captain America, Goofy Bill,etc, Slabmaster, kayaker, flyfisherman, weather plane regroover,landlord, Laramie resident, college roommate of Mike F and sporadic climbing partner for over 30 years!
'
Grug reminding us that it's about being there now! Victory in 'defeat'.
Elizabeth, Grug, Em
AND A LOT MORE....
Bear with me as I flesh out the above.
Anyone with thoughts and or photos from that weekend feel free to add them and chime in.
Some references;
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1412648/Road-to-Lucille
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1560804/Odds-on-Eeyonkee-doing-Lucille
and a Hartouni thread with a link to a reprint of my original article, Lucille, for R&I 1990
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/111369/Lucille
Jaybro, 8/12/2011, Coal Creek Coffe Uptown, Laramie Wyo
Jaybro
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About the Author
Jaybro is a social climber from Wolf City, Wyoming |
Comments
Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 11, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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Digging it already. You old guys are an inspiration.
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Aug 11, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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cool as hell...
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Aug 11, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
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Right on!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 11, 2011 - 12:48pm PT
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Awesome, Jaybro. The crowd ROARED "MORE, MORE, MORE!!!!!!"
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Aug 11, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
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NICE!
looking forward to moar.
Cheers!
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cowpoke
climber
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Aug 11, 2011 - 12:53pm PT
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so cool. love all the photos -- those last two are just amazing.
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Aug 11, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
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Anxiously waiting for more...all sweaty-palmed...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Aug 11, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
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The mind boggles. Menonite little girls with crashpads, bird's eye perspective of horizontal chickenwinging action, I feel like the mescaline is kicking in.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 11, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
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Excellent! More, please!
John
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 11, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
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at least the slab looks fun.
heh
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jahil
Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
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Aug 11, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
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Great stuff, Jaybro. Can't wait to see more. Definitely worth the wait !
steve
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Aug 11, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
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Looking great so far
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 11, 2011 - 03:43pm PT
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I've been waiting for this!!!!! Thanks. And, yes, more please. I can't wait until Sunday is covered.
I sure would have liked to have seen Haan try this back in the day. Subtle flares and patience were his strong suits, although I was really struck by your(jaybro's) comment that when you finally sent it, you attributed your success as much to great aerobic capacity gained at high elevation as much as anything else. (do I have that correct?).
Anyway Grug, you're a role model!
PS added in edit: I got so excited about the first pictures to come out in this subject that I went and did all the buildering squeeze and OW that I could do without getting arrested on U. Washington's campus. There is one short polished concrete squeeze on Ben Hall (new building) where I have to foot stack. When I get the technique right, it's not too bad, but other days I can't make a move on it. And it's only vertical.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Aug 11, 2011 - 04:27pm PT
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"other days I can't make a move on it"
Offwidth is engimatic. It takes conditioning, technique, expert clothing management, and a whole lot more that only the finest minds can discern. And the coup de grace is that ultimately the crack itself seems to decide whether it wants you or not.
This was an outstanding instance of the climbing cycle, from inception to post-game, and a great crew. Great photos. Thanks.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 11, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
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thanks for the post Jay!
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philo
climber
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Aug 11, 2011 - 10:24pm PT
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TFPU! This is a most enjoyable ride.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Aug 11, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
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Yes, terrific stuff. Thanks for putting it up. Can't wait for more!
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Aug 11, 2011 - 10:44pm PT
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Keep postn' up Jay!!!
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blackbird
Trad climber
the flat water trails...
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Aug 11, 2011 - 10:56pm PT
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Missed you folks by just barely!
Glad you had fun, and while I thoroughly enjoyed ALL the pics, I must say that the second to last one intrigues me the most...
BB
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Aug 11, 2011 - 11:20pm PT
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Bigity bumP!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 11, 2011 - 11:21pm PT
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That chest hair carpet adds friction. Try not wearing a shirt. That should take a letter or two off the grade.
Seriously though, it looks a lot bigger and meaner in those shots of Grug sitting on the ledge.
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Aug 11, 2011 - 11:22pm PT
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It was such an awesome weekend it almost makes me want to become a trad again! Thanks Shiho, Jay, GAL, Grug, and everyone else.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Aug 11, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
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Great stuff. If we can have a few photos from the FA, and maybe the one of Pam hanging upside down being cute, that would add some nice perspective.
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
SEKI
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Aug 11, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
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Wow.
That's a fun TR. I especially like the shot of Grug sitting below the roof. I don't think I understood how imposing that thing is from other photos I've seen.
Brad
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 11, 2011 - 11:52pm PT
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Thanks for posting. Way to go you gals and guys!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:06am PT
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Is it too early to beg for more?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:18am PT
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Fntastic photo essay of Grug's great adventure!! More!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:33am PT
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More tomorrow, though my keyboard seems to have a bug, may have to repair to the mothership in Gillette.
You make it home, Gary?
Thanks all! Grug, get back up there!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:27am PT
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what great energy!!!!
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Gal
Trad climber
going big air to fakie
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:33am PT
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I just wanted to add a couple of thoughts. It's an interesting thing to go out for the weekend knowing you will be meeting all new people. I had read Jaybro's Lucille account a while back here on Supertopo, and it was one of my favorite write-ups. When I saw Eeyonkee's (Greg's) "Road to Lucille", I was definitely rooting him on during the following months, always reading up on the thread.
Luckily, timing worked out for me to make it out to Vedauwoo. As I walked up to campsite 12, I was wondering in my mind how this would all go, what with not knowing anyone and all. And I have to say, the moment I sat down, I felt comfortable. Everybody was very friendly and welcoming as soon as I walked up. Goatboy, Jaybro, the Divine Ms. Em, lovely Elizabeth, and of course Greg. Later meeting Mike, who was a part of the original FA of Lucille, cheering and belaying the new suitor Greg ;-). Jaybro was very encouraging the whole time, he also was pointing out a lot of classic climbs, boulder problems, etc. And Shiho was there, very sweet & who was climbing strong. Em and I swapped leads on Edwards crack, an adorable classic, which brought us to the location of the main event, Lucille-fest. And Bill caught up with us all in the gallery, he was cracking us up.
I was impressed by the whole weekend, and was thrilled to see Greg up there courting Lucille! He almost charmed his way to her heart, but at the last moment, Lucille's heart went cold. I feel certain though, the next time, she will allow passage-she just needed to get to know him a little better ;-) While this time around was Lucille-Fest, I believe Lucille Quest (a saying from Em) shall continue with triumph next go-around! And Greg, I am sorry to hear about your shoulder... I hope you heal quickly and give her another go. I believe that success will be yours.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:17am PT
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well Gal, if you like wide, you're obviously bonkers, and since your nuts, you fit right in with a mixed bowl with the cashews, almonds and wallnuts.
koalaTee TR Jay! look to more
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:24am PT
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That's a fun TR. I especially like the shot of Grug sitting below the roof. I don't think I understood how imposing that thing is from other photos I've seen.
Ditto!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
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Thanks for the TR, Jaybro. I must admit, before driving out on Friday I was thinking to myself, "what have I got myself into?" I mean, I don't really even like people watching me climb at the gym. And there was a reasonable chance that I would barely be able to start the thing. But the vibes were so good. I've never prepared for a climb before like I did Lucille.
On Sunday morning, Elizabeth, Gal, Goatboy and I (who were camped near Partyland) got to Jay's campsite at around 9:00. I actually went off by myself and did quite a few calisthenics to get warmed up. Mike and Shiho had gotten up early to do Spectreman. Since Mike was going to be my belayer, we knew that the main event wouldn't start until 11 or 12. Elizabeth and I ended up hiking up by ourselves while others were doing routes to get to the Hatbox.
The Hatbox area is surreal. It's like an elevated rock desert plain with cool boulders that form tunnels and lots of horizontal huecos partially filled with water. I couldn't keep still and just kept walking around, exploring my surroundings for an hour and a half, at least. I had made a swami belt with leg loops, because I did not want any extra volume around the hips. I spent a lot of time fidgeting with the swami belt to get it to fit just right.
Finally, when everybody arrived and it was time to get down to business, I actually felt pretty calm. Of all of the points I made in the opening post to the Road to Lucille thread, the visualization one is probably the one that helped me out the most. I pretty much hit the mark in visualizing what to do. I also knew that I could not get bogged down with placing gear in the middle of the cruxes, so I my decision to go for it after placing with my feet on the rail was a good one. I just brought two pieces with me above the rail, a number 6 and number 5 Camalot. The number 6 I placed near my eventual high spot. At that point I was actually in really good shape, although breathing hard. The number 5 I figure I'd place after it got easier. It's amazing how quickly it went downhill from the semi-comfortable spot where I had placed the number 6. Although what I said about losing my heel-toe is true, it's also true that I was so gassed that I could not recover from a mistake that could have been overcome if I was in better cardio shape.
I tried two more times, but they were half-hearted and I did not get near my high point. Cleaning the thing on retreat was even harder than the lead attempt. Thanks for hanging in there with me, Mike.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Aug 12, 2011 - 10:42am PT
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TFPU, love the voo!
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pc
climber
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Aug 12, 2011 - 10:55am PT
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Great! This is better than coffee.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Aug 12, 2011 - 10:55am PT
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WOW, I totally missed that in the pic with Goat? rubbing his nipples in the wind, Greg is back there in the maw of the beast, feet on the rail before going horizontal.
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Shiho
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
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I believe that it's Bill in the photo, playing with his nips.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:50pm PT
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I thought Bill (who I'd never met before) was funnier than sh#t. In the middle of my attempt, I would suddenly become aware of roars of laughter from the peanut gallery - I think it was actually continuous except that the wind would drown it out more often that not. Somehow this made me feel more comfortable.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Aug 12, 2011 - 03:00pm PT
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I just realized in that great picture of Bill, way in the back in the dark of Lucille, there is struggle going on.
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jahil
Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
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Woah!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 12, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
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SOOOOO CLOSE, and yet so far. . .
WHAT AN EFFORT, GREG, WOW!!!!
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Aug 12, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
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I'm a thousand miles away, Lucille,
yet I know you better than ever.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Aug 12, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
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Psychedelic pictures
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Gal
Trad climber
going big air to fakie
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Aug 12, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
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well Gal, if you like wide, you're obviously bonkers, and since your nuts, you fit right in with a mixed bowl with the cashews, almonds and wallnuts.
Absolutely, Mungeclimber, you are correct! ;-)
I fit in well!!!
Goatboy-you got AWESOME pics too!
...and Jaybro, your pics are SO wonderful (thank you for this TR)!!!
Em-did you get back safely? How was Tuesday's climbing with Jaybro? Plumb line?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Aug 12, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
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Lucille in the sky with diamonds(in the rough; Grug & Freddie)?...
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Aug 12, 2011 - 11:22pm PT
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SICK! Love it.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Aug 13, 2011 - 12:37am PT
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A great story and a great effort. Thank you for sharing it with us.
Goatboy! Those photos are "da bomb!!"
They are so------ great!
From the photos it does look like Greg had all but done the route.
However, I hit "VO2-Max" on a much easier chimney this summer.
As I understand it: When your heart rate maxes out (VO2-Max), suddenly you hit a wall (you just don't have any energy to continue), and only resting and dropping your heart rate will restore your energy. http://sportsmedicine.about.com/od/anatomyandphysiology/a/VO2_max.htm
Unfortunatly, the older you get: the lower your VO2-Max level is.
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Aug 13, 2011 - 02:11am PT
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Gal wrote:
Em-did you get back safely? How was Tuesday's climbing with Jaybro? Plumb line?
Tuesday was a semi-rest day -- climbed Hide-Away Chimney and the Flake at Holy Saturday. Home safe, thankful for a great trip.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Aug 13, 2011 - 02:19am PT
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Gorgeous shot, Em. Great pix, words, and efforts to all, particularly Greg!
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Aug 13, 2011 - 02:55am PT
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Back at the old climbers home, reminiscing on the good times and great folks met along the way...
most of all Grug...blown away by his awesome strength, poise and determination
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philo
climber
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Aug 13, 2011 - 02:35am PT
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Rippin' good pics Goatboy.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Aug 13, 2011 - 10:01am PT
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Nice stuff all around.
Cleaning the thing on retreat was even harder than the lead attempt.
Tell that story.
Prod.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Aug 13, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
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awesome, thanks so much for posting. Good go Grug!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 13, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
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I love that you all took photos with such different feelings.
Grug so looks like he has it in the bag in goatboy's second to last picture, like what's the problem ;-). Hey I like being an arm chair OW climber even more than a real one, lucky considering my last OW lead was a two years ago.
Once again, I'm so appreciative to Jabro for the climb and starting the thread.
Em's photos are beautiful and invoking "The Road Goes Ever On" takes unfair advantage of us sentimental sots, as I wipe a tear from my eye (no shit).
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Aug 13, 2011 - 02:58pm PT
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Great great great!!
Sooooooo glad to see pix of someone in that thing.
So I will never be tempted......................................
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Aug 13, 2011 - 03:00pm PT
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How hard is that thing? It looks pretty nasty.
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Aug 13, 2011 - 04:58pm PT
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invoking "The Road Goes Ever On"
Credit goes to Ed Hartouni who invoked that first, on the Road to Lucille thread. It seemed so appropriate (with apologies if too sentimental).
Cleaning the thing on retreat was even harder than the lead attempt.
Yes, Greg please tell us more about that.
I was amazed at the time that Greg chose to downclimb and clean. Any of us "lookieloos" could've easily climbed another route to access the top of the formation, and lowered a rope to Greg (yes, we offered) but he quietly did the proud trad retreat.
The rack Greg took seemed super-lean; a few big Camalots, BigBro, no Valley Giants. Goatboy's fifth photo looking up from below shows the mind-numbing exposure of the upper section after traversing out the roof, as well as the angle at which Greg was climbing; the straight-on photos can't really show what you see from the belay cave at top of Best of the Blues. Incredible geometry...how could Jaybro and Mike ever imagine climbing that, BITD? The timid mouse mind boggles.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Aug 13, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
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Nice report Jay and great pictures. I would love to hook up with you guys next year in Ved. I bet I could get the whole family to come down to that one.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 14, 2011 - 10:37am PT
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Hey, thanks you all. Nice pictures Goatboy and Em. I miss hanging out with you all already.
As far as the retreat goes, I guess I would have never dreamed of doing it other than the way I did. I felt bad enough employing a fellow (and super-good) climber as a dedicated belayer. The retreat was a struggle, involving down-aiding with big gear. I don't know how else to describe it. I felt it was important to clean up my own mess.
Still haven't decided on whether or when there might be another go. This is the first weekend that I haven't been to Vedauwoo in 5 weeks. Turning 55 this week. I don't have unlimited time.
Edit: Those pictures are amazing. You need to look at the way the gear is hanging off my hardware sling to get perspective on which way is down relative to my body position. By the end of the sequence, you can see that I'm near vertical.
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Zander
climber
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Aug 13, 2011 - 07:31pm PT
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Great thread all, Thanks for sharing your adventure!
Zander
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perswig
climber
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Aug 13, 2011 - 07:48pm PT
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This and its sister threads may be THE best thing on ST these days.
Thanks to all who have contributed, for taking us on this ride, esp with the pics - had no idea of the scale of this thing 'til the long shot of Eeyonkee seated mid-way up.
Dale
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Aug 13, 2011 - 08:21pm PT
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This is the good stuff. Real climbers do offwidth.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Aug 16, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
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Write Jay Write...
Nicely done, making my shoulders ache.
Somehow, 13 OW seems to be some sort of event horizon.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Aug 16, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
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This TR firmly reminds me that I never want to climb anything wider than my fist. Well done everybody.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 24, 2011 - 07:14am PT
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So Phantom X reminded me that this was a Quinn Martin production and therefore needed an epilogue. Turns out he was lying (second time I fell for that this month). But I figured, an epilogue was indeed, appropriate, and frankly, I've never had an epilogue before.
First of all, I just wanted to point out that Jaybro finally posted all of his pictures in the opening sequence. That is really a spectacular sequence of photos. I find myself analyzing the climbing photos (both his and Goatboy's) with respect to absolute location, body position, and direction of down as determined by the direction the Camalots are hanging. I've come to the conclusion that, while very close, I was definitely in a key inflection point in the climb, that was almost certainly the crux for me. The crux was probably a little farther up climb than for Jaybro and Mike, who are a fair bit thinner than me. Both Jay and Mike thought I had it.
Climbed one day since the Lucille attempt - on the following Wednesday, with George Lowe in Eldorado. I ended up struggling on a climb I'd done probably 20 times before - the first pitch of Genesis. Just before taking a fall, I pulled a muscle in my rib area and have been in pain ever since. Just went to the doc yesterday. Nothing much I can do about the rib muscle tear, but I'm having an MRI procedure on the left shoulder in a couple of weeks. The shoulder definitely got messed up during the Lucille attempt, although I'm pretty sure I had already had a tear.
This was the most hooplah before a climb, that I'd ever been associated with. Though embarrassed at times, it was not an unpleasant experience. Like Jaybro said at the start, it's all about the journey. The wife thinks I'm too skinny now.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 23, 2011 - 09:21pm PT
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Very, very nice- I was road tripping and missed this. Wish I could have been there to cheerlead...er, I mean, heckle.
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Aug 24, 2011 - 01:38am PT
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You call that an epilogue? No wonder there is a rumor out that your being tossed off of ST. I have not an epilogue but something even better. Comments from non climbers that I thought interesting for some reason! Everyone I showed pictures to asked the same question and that is this, "Is Mr. smellz of the Hampton smellz or of the Kansas City Smellz?" The afore mentioned snooty lady (thread #1)exclaimed "Oh for Heavens sake" and "Insanity has it's charms". She won't let go of the I word and left quite happy. The UPS guy liked them and said that I'm always making him late which is funny because he's a master screw-off who is always holding up the whole town. My neighbor the retired railroader and a biker tells me this is cool stuff and that he has skydived and skuba-dived and went on to enlist me in moving a three ton boulder a hundred yards. I thought the sequence pics were edge of the seat exciting, everyone does! I'm also wondering if this is a ST tri-fecta (I use latin frequently) first as their are now three threads involved and this set's a new standard for pertinent journalism. I'll bring this up with Chris (CMac to you). Good luck with your shoulder and ribs, you deserve a rest!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Aug 24, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
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Marky likey! Great photos and nice write up! That is one intimidating looking OW!
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Double D
climber
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Aug 24, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
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Gotta say some of those photos really show the enormity of that beast. Who, in their right mind would ever call this recreation???
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 22, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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amazing story
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nov 22, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
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No. Fecking. Way.
Not. Ever.
WOOO HOOO!!!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 22, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
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Your friend Grug is from Colorado? I think I met him and his partner at the Needles...nice guys! And a good report as well.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Nov 22, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
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Great pics. Thanks for the TR. Looks like a whole lot of fun.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Nov 23, 2013 - 11:23am PT
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Probably the same guy vitally! pretty sure he told me went to the Needles when he got shut out of the valley....
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Nov 26, 2013 - 08:24am PT
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EEoow!
That looks truely mental!
Man, he got soooo close. And then reversed it to clean.......
Must be 'strong like Bull!' It makes me feel like a woose.
Great TR TFPU.
Steve
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Nov 26, 2013 - 09:04am PT
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Truly balls to the walls inspirational!! A TR +++ Makes me want to go into the vault and look at Mother Superior again; just look mind you. And then the back cleans that thing after the effort... Is it just me? Or is it that the wide people on this site are have a ton of fun; smiles all around and everything.
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L
climber
Just livin' the dream
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Nov 27, 2013 - 09:19am PT
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What a fab TR, Jaybro and all!
Those incredible photos of Grug should line the BD hall of fame walls.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Nov 27, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
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BadA$$!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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May 15, 2015 - 09:32am PT
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RIP BB King! 9/16/1925 - 5/14/2015
Play it, Lucille
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 15, 2015 - 12:08pm PT
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Am i the only one who thinks Grug should post another TR?! This one is wayyy old!
Something about OW sprinting please! I get pleasure from watching other people suffer. >:)
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
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May 15, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
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What an awesome bump.
He is a rock crushed!
Susan
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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May 15, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
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Nice!! Way impressive!! Almost as impressive, is a Verve chalkbag heading and scraping up the wide!!
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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May 15, 2015 - 01:29pm PT
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No. Fecking. Way.
Not. Ever.
Ribbit..
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 15, 2015 - 01:31pm PT
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Wonderful invocation of BB King Jaybro!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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May 15, 2015 - 01:44pm PT
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I was just talking about this thread (and my original thread on the subject) with Elizabeth last night - how much fun I had with it. Didn't even think of the tie-in with B.B.
Vitaliy, I've got my sites on another hard offwidth at Vedauwoo - Forever War. I may do a TR later this year on this one.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Jul 23, 2018 - 05:52am PT
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That sushi ain’t gonna eat itself, style bump
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