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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
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Complete
List of Included Climbs |
Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review |
Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
Touchstone Wall |
Cerberus Gendarme |
N/A |
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b |
|
Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
|
Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
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