Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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1. V0 Warm-up traverse on jugs. Harder if you stay low
2. V1 Start start at prow then traverse up and right. There is a possible hard sit start variaiton.
3. V5? Start right hand on a sloper just right of the the prow. Diagonal up and right avoiding the jugs on the top. Contrived but good smooth holds.
4. V0 Start on best hold on wall. Go up and a little left of scoop.
5. V3 Start in center of scoop. Big reach up and left to rail
The next five problems are highball and a little loose and scary at the top.
6. V4? Start right side up scoop and move up and left.
7. V2 Start on big rail and go up to jugs. Traverse right and finish on crack (#8).
8. V2 Start on jugs and go up to crack. Gets easier but looser the high you go up.
9. V4 Start on cave lip traverse then go up to a good right hand and then a big move to a big jug. Easier but spooky finish.
10. V5 Cave lip traverse. Start on big holds at side of cave. Powerful horizontal moves on big holds up and right to top of cave. Drop off or continue to the top on easy but awkward "sidewalk."
11. V0 Traverse on good holds
12. VB A few good easy warm up problems
13. Not shown. A few moderate problems scattered here and there on the south side of the beach.
NOTE: all the ratings are guesses at the moment. in a few months when more people climb these I'll have a better idea of the ratings. Post feedback below if you disagree with a rating.
DRIVING DIRECTIONS
From the San Francisco Golden Gate Bridge, take 101 north about 5 miles to the Highway 1/Stinson Beach exit. Drive Highway 1 about 0.5 miles and make the first left onto Tennessee Valley Rd (if you hit the Tam Junction you went too far). Drive 1.5 miles on Tennessee Valley Rd. to its end at the dirt parking lot.
APPROACH DIRECTIONS
From the parking lot, it's 1.7 miles to the bouldering at the south end of Tennessee Valley Beach. This is a pleasant and flat 30 minute walk. The better option is to bring a mountain bike or cruiser with wide tires and bike the distance. Half the distance is paved and half is fire road. This takes less than 10 minutes on a bike.
WHAT TO BRING
Because of the deep sand landings, you don't really need a crash pad. Instead, bring a couple of beach towels to get the sand off your feet before you start the problems. Its a good idea to bring an extra pair of shoes in case one gets wet. A little liquid courage goes a long way on the taller problems. Most importantly, bring whatever is necessary for an epic sunset if you are climbing the afternoon.
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Chris Ewing on a V0 warm up.Photo: Chris McNamara
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