Article
The Best Yosemite Climbing Rack and Gear List
Chris McNamara
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About the Author
Climbing Magazine once computed that three percent of Chris McNamara’s life on earth had been spent on the face of El Capitan — an accomplishment that has left friends and family pondering Chris’s sanity. He has climbed El Capitan more than 100 times and holds nine big wall speed climbing records. In 1998 Chris did the first Girdle Traverse of El Capitan, an epic 75-pitch route that begs the question, “Why?”
Outside Magazine has called Chris one of “the world’s finest aid climbers.” He is the winner of the 1999 Bates Award from the American Alpine Club and founder of the American Safe Climbing Association, a nonprofit group that has replaced over 5000 dangerous anchor bolts. He is a graduate of UC Berkeley and serves on the boards of the ASCA and Rowell Legacy Committee. He has a rarely updated website, chrismcnamara.com, and also runs a Lake Tahoe home rental business http://rentsouthlake.com |
spidey
Trad climber
Berkeley CA
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Great post. How much does that rack (in the picture) weigh?
looks like you've got some aliens in there too...
what about aiders?
Do you bring the mini-traxion on NIAD? are you hauling a small pack with it or using it for self belay? I would assume you use a gri-gri to short fix and have the second jug with a small pack so you don't have to haul.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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what ever happened to a set of Stoppers, a set of Hexes, 6 tied 1" webbing slings and a pair of EBs?
what will that run you these days?
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Auto-X Fil
Mountain climber
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I can see that kit being cool for NIAD, but isn't that sort of a funny rack? I mean, overkill for most people on most free climbs, but not enough for most peoole to big-wall with? It's just a poop-ton of cams!
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Byran
climber
Half Dome Village
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The biggest piece of gear on the "Ultimate Yosemite Rack" is a #4 Camalot?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Missing this:
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Maybe fine rack for vertical cracks, but it looks light in the sling department. I much prefer dyneema slings and biners rigged as alpine draws (triple folded), and like to have ~12 on another single length runner over the shoulder (so can swing it around when different sides go into a crack).
I would never buy sport draws, but I frequently use them from others' racks.
And those mini brown and green biners take some getting used to, extra hand/finger coordination to manipulate the smaller stuff. Not versatile for use in a belay station (e.g. clove hitching to quick draws on a two-bolted station).
Missing double-length runners for keeping the rope running cleanly under roofs or on zig-zags.
Missing more tubular webbing for clip-in to harness & rap stations, and for backing up the ATC during a rap.
Missing a camera to take pics for trip reports and internet spewage.
And of course missing the big gear!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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echo what Bryan said above. lots of fist cracks in the valley would really benefit from a slightly bigger piece IMHO, but then again I'm a woose.
That and the pic doesn't reflect that text recommendation above, in that it shows 1 #4 in the pic, but says doubles below. no big tho, just being my usual nit picky self.
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utahman912
Social climber
SLC, UT
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I would substitute a Fish Products gear sling... ocelot pattern :-)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Seems weird to select an 'ideal' rack for Yosemite. Sure, I could buy 90 cams and be covered pretty well. But this idea is illogical to me to suggest an ideal rack.
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spidey
Trad climber
Berkeley CA
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According to the Reid book, you can do almost every climb in the valley with "gear to 3 inches" (3.5 inches for the really wide routes).
I feel like a fool for dragging around all that big gear for so long!
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Auto-X Fil
Mountain climber
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It's still 30 cams if you bring everything you have listed. Maybe word it like this?
-Master Cams 00 to 4
-Optional: Either Offset Master Cams 00/0 to 4/5, or doubles of regular Master Cams
-BD C4 doubles 0.5 to 4 (are two #4s needed in the valley for many routes?)
That's a pretty solid kit, and if you get the extra small cams it's getting too heavy for my tastes.
FWIW, I've never climbed in the valley. I just assume moderately featured cracks protect the same on both coasts. I'd also carry a couple of the smaller C3s before doubling up on Master Cams, but that's nitpicking.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Two posts second guessing the rack from someone that's never climbed in yos, classic supertopo! :)
I roll with double sets of cams through 3, one or sometimes two 4s. Big guns as necessary. Metolius in the small sizes and camalots in the bigger. One and a half sets of nuts (or thereabouts).
I also never bring enough slings or draws.
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Auto-X Fil
Mountain climber
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I'm not second-guessing his rack, just saying that I don't think it reads the way he intends. I read it now as saying 1-3 sets of small cams. It seems like he probably really means to bring at least one set of small cams, and if you double up, maybe make the second set offsets.
The photo that was up made sense (doubles from tips to fists) If you pick up all the optional gear on the list, it doesn't.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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This is the rack for a typical Yosemite Valley multi-pitch trad climb.
No wonder I see the noobs carrying a 20 pound rack on After Six!
I would say something more like "This rack has almost everything you may need for a typcial Yosemite Valley multi-pitch trad climb. Depending on the climb you are going to do and your experience you can pick and choose what you need from this Ultimate Yosemite Climbing Rack."
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utahman912
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Depending on the climb you are going to do and your experience you can pick and choose from ...
That's the way I read it. And that's what I do.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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I would probably also put 2 ropes for climbs that require 2 ropes to rap off, or to facilitate retreat.
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Vic Klotz
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 21, 2011 - 11:03am PT
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Finally, a recommendation that doesn't include curved stoppers. Thanks Mac!
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johnny2plat
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Apr 27, 2011 - 11:27am PT
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Chris & Company,
Thanks for spending the time to sort out what might be included in an "ideal rack". I often get asked by emerging trad climbers what they should buy. I can now point them to this list.
I like everything on this list but wanted to add some thoughts:
1. Nuts - The DMM Brass Offsets are appropriately listed as "optional". Unless you do a lot of aid climbing (or are lucky enough to climb in Yosemite a lot) you probably won't use them much.
2. Cams - I really like the Metolius Master Cams in the small sizes and they are probably the closest replacement we have for Aliens. I find the larger sizes of the Metolius Master Cams (4-red, 5-black and 6-green) to be a bit wobbly. The BD Camalots are great if you have the money. For a slightly more affordable option (and a bit lighter), you might want to trade the Camalots out for a set of Metolius Power Cams. The off-set Metolius cams would be nice, but probably not used that much outside of Yosemite or the aid climbing world.
3. Quickdraws - When I'm fiddling around with a tricky clip, I find it's harder to clip the rope with a wiregate quickdraws. I know it's a bit more weight, but I think it's worth having a solid, bent-gate, 'biner for the rope end. Also, consider a longer draw length like 17cm (instead of the typical 12cm) to reduce rope drag. Not much extra weight, but it will help with rope drag. I like the Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw. Buy them in sets and think about getting 10 or 12 instead of 7. There are plenty of 10+ clip sport routes where you'll use them.
3.5. 'Biners - Those little baby Camp Nano 'biners might be really light (they look like toys!) but I find them really hard to clip. If you've got big paws like me, you might want to go with a larger 'biner.
4. Lockers - I love those Petzl Attache 3D biners. If you're missing the ones on your rack, it's probably because I accidentally borrowed them when we went climbing. I like the light weight and I like the way they grab the rope when you're tying in with a Clove Hitch at the belay. I would suggest getting at least 6 locking 'biners if you can.
5. Cordellete - The Mammut Cordellette that is shown in the link is 18'. I think that is a little short. Also, the thinner cord suggested(6mm) is not as strong or as durable as a fatter cord. I recommend buying 22' of 8mm cord. It's rated over 3,000 lbs. and is great for setting up trad anchors or slinging big trees or boulders. It's priced around 60 cents/foot and available by the foot at www.Acmeclimbing.com. If you're worried about the bulk, drop down to 7mm and buy 20'. One last note on cordelletes - they take a beating if you use them for top roping. Be sure to inspect them and replace them on a regular basis. You can use the old one as a "full strength" do leash for your poodle.
6. Belay Device - I have used the BD Guide for quite awhile and really like it. I know the Reverso 3 accepts a small biner to allow for lowering. Find friends that already have them and ask to try them both out before you buy one. Or just ask a climber using one. You wouldn't be surprised to find out that climbers love to talk about their gear. Be sure to read the directions carefully before using in "guide mode"!
7. Helmet - All I can say about helmets, is use them! I see that Justin Lawrence (shown in the pic above the gear list) accidentally forgot to wear his. Maybe someone will one down to him. I've been climbing for over 30 years and been hit in the head with a decent sized rock about 4 times. I was really glad I had one on every time. If you climb long enough (or frequent places like Pinnacles), you will eventually get hit in the head with a rock. A helmet is cheaper than a trip to the emergency room.
8. Gear Sling - I have 2 Metolius Adjustable Gear slings and used them for many years till my friend gifted me the Metolius Multi-Loop Gear sling. It's only a few bucks more and really helps keep everything organized when you're fiddling around for that grey Alien that you know is back there somewhere.
9. Nut Tool - I have heard that the nut tools with the curly cords (like an old school telephone cord) get all tangled up. I have friend that connected his nut tool to one of those janitor style retractable key chains. Cool idea but I don't know if it's been battle tested yet. I have a plain, old BD Nut tool but would buy one of those nut tools that allow you to tighten loose bolts (like the Metolius Torque Nut Tool). Or maybe I'll just buy one with a bottle opener so I can stop smacking my beers open on the park service's wooden picnic tables.
John
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Apr 26, 2011 - 09:30pm PT
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I would probably also put 2 ropes for climbs that require 2 ropes to rap off, or to facilitate retreat.
30 cams on your free rack...one can afford to leave some behind to make a safe rap. ;)
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stinky hippie
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Apr 29, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
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People keep doggin' on all the cams. Having doubles from .5 to 3 seems reasonable, and maybe a 4 from time to time. The smaller cams like the master cams or C3s are light, easy to manage on the rack, and arguably speed up placements and are easier to clean(when placed correctly). For most moderate climbs in the valley I will place maybe one nut on the whole pitch, unless it is thin the whole time, or the crack is shallow. I stopped taking the largest two nuts because I never place them. pin scars are the one place I have never been able to protect very well. I just picked up some offset nuts and am optimistic. I guess my point is the cams are great and nuts still have there place. I am sure there will be someone much older then me who will rant and rave about the days before cams, and how they climbed all the same routes without cams. That is great too.
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Preston H
Trad climber
Ketchum, ID
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why did everybody read the rack post if they already know exactly what to bring?
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1 set DMM Offset Nuts or ABC Huevos (BB)
