Trip Report
The Valdez, Alaska Ice Climbing Festival Re-awakened
Saturday February 28, 2015 1:06am
The Valdez ice climbing scene has some pretty deep routes. If you look in the guidebook you'll see names like Chuck Comstock, Carl Tobin, Jeff Lowe and many others. It has been the site of ice climbing festivals since the 1980's but there has been a decent sized gap in the last few years. But thanks in large part to a huge effort by Nick Weicht, it's back!

Last year his first ice festival brought in around 30 climbers. This year we got a few more people involved and ended up having over 167 people! An amazing size for this event and Brian Teale, a previous director of the festival, said it was probably the largest he had seen. We're already planning for next year so here's some candy to tempt all you folks wanting some good ice to pack your bags and head on up!

The meet and greet at Fat Mermaid in Valdez was already showing the promise for the next days festivities. Quite a few people showed up.


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The next day we headed out and put ropes up on the base of a few of the classic climbs in the area. Here is Bridalveil.


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Pitch one of it at least!


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We also had climbers on Greensteps.

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A happy crowd. There were 3 other areas all set up with ropes and each area had as many people or more as this one.


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Want to make it a bit more interesting? We had some mixed routes setup as well.


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And whats a festival without hot chocolate?


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The first morning of the festival there was a womans climbing clinic that managed to attract almost 30 female climbers! An excellent turnout. The clinic was held at POS.


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Ladies getting after it.


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Oh and if you think it looks easy, both Bridalveil and Greensteps are WI5.


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Don't like the crowds? We can understand that. Thankfully Keystone Canyon is filled with gems. Here's a picture of the ever intimidating Glass Onion and a few climbers getting after it.


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Travis McAlpine enjoying a run up the first ice section.


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Perhaps it was fate that people could be found on a Simple Twist of Fate.


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Chris Williams avoided the crowds at Hanging Tree.


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Many people heard about the avalanche that come down in Keystone Canyon and blocked the entire canyon, filling it with water. What many don't know is that a lot of the snow is still there in a feature called the Damalanche. This hard packed snow felt glacerious and made for some great climbing.


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Even crack systems!


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Robert Suenram making holds.


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The hole that is above in this photo is actually from another avalanche that came down later and collapsed through. Behind it was another hundred yards of massive tunnel.


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The snow below was somewhat soft and made for a decent landing.


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When we left the Damalance we saw Dane Ketner giving some mixed craziness a go. Early guesses put it at M6 or M7. I call it craziness because I'm not much into mixed climbing.


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But we figured since we were there we might as well give it a go! (even though we left and came back later)

Pat trying it first. Where's all the ice?


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Pat had some spectacular toprope falls! Here's a few of my favorites.


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And my favorite.


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Shasta gave it a go as her first mixed climb and did great.


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Heres me moving through the crux. Made it to the top of the climb with one fall.


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Of course sometimes getting to the climb is the crux.


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We wrapped up our time on the ice and rock and headed into town for one of Nicks famous bonfires. Stories are told about his high school graduation bonfire where he lit 700 pallets up at once.


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We did a mere 31 or so.


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Then helped it along...


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And kept it up.


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Until a firebird and smoke wolf flew from the top. Seriously...you see them? Crazy photo.


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Anyone else wonder how a lemur got in there?


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Some daring souls went in for a photo.


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We tried our hands at twirling fire.


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And at funny poses.


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The next day was devoted to mixed climbing and I have to admit that I took off running. It was raining and the 5 hour drive back to Anchorage was calling. So if your wondering what to do next year, pack your bags and head to to Alaska. The ice is calling.






Photo below is for the TR link.
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Robert Suenram in the Damalanche. Valdez, Alaska
Robert Suenram in the Damalanche. Valdez, Alaska
Credit: Prezwoodz
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  Trip Report Views: 4,482
Prezwoodz
About the Author
Prezwoodz is a climber of all types from Alaska

Comments
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Feb 28, 2015 - 06:36am PT
SWEET!!! Great pics....looks like the fun meter was pegged.

Let me know when you do a rock climbing festival at the Seward Highway road cut.
climbski2

Mountain climber
The Ocean
  Feb 28, 2015 - 06:46am PT
Lol. Ahh the rock climbing in SC AK may leave a bit to be desired. But the Ice.. worldclass. Thanks for the pics Kelsey! The Avalanche tunnel is amazing.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Feb 28, 2015 - 06:52am PT
Let me know when you do a rock climbing festival at the Seward Highway road cut.

LOL, I always hated belaying next to 60+ mph traffic.

Too many of the old timers have passed on, but the new generation looks kickass... And more ladies than ever. Praise the Lord.
Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
Author's Reply  Feb 28, 2015 - 10:25am PT
Thanks everyone for the comments!

Doninin - I have been thinking about doing a rock festival somewhere near Anchorage. The problem is that the Seward Highway is the most consistant with weather but Hatcher Pass would be the best place to have it. Whether or not it rains up there is anyones guess from day to day.

There is going to be a rock festival in Valdez this year too!

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Valdez-Rock-Climbing-Festval/1423371751265592
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Feb 28, 2015 - 03:35pm PT
Stellar TR as usual Kelsey!!!!
Thank you!!!!!
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Feb 28, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
Super pics, I liked the ones in the glacial cave too.

Thanks a lot.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Feb 28, 2015 - 07:28pm PT
Outstanding, and as usual, great photos!
feralfae

Boulder climber
Montana, on the Divide and around.
  Feb 28, 2015 - 07:31pm PT
Oh, super photos! Thank you! Great event!

Impressive to see everyone out there.

Thank you for the wonderful TR/ER and I smiled all the while as I was looking at everyone playing on the ice.

Bravo!
feralfae
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Mar 1, 2015 - 07:14am PT
Sweet!!
Jay Hack

Trad climber
Detroit, Michigan
  Mar 1, 2015 - 09:06am PT
Now that, was some proper Ice Climbing Fun! Thanks for the fun TR read and pics!
Chugach

Trad climber
Vermont
  Mar 2, 2015 - 11:48am PT
Great report, thanks! I've had some great days there.
Roots

Mountain climber
Somewhere Fun
  Mar 2, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
Looks like fun. Keep us posted for 2016...I might be able to 'swing' by!
Fletcher

Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
  Mar 2, 2015 - 01:13pm PT
Enjoyed that... thanks!
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Mar 2, 2015 - 06:13pm PT
Awesome photos and excellent report!

I've spent a lot of time in Valdez in the summer--never in winter. What a contrast.

Thanks for posting this.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Mar 2, 2015 - 06:23pm PT
Looks like a good time, but maybe too many people.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
  Mar 2, 2015 - 06:37pm PT
This just looks like an incredible event.
Beautiful pictures...so much fun.


Susan
BeeTee

Social climber
Valdez Alaska
  Mar 13, 2015 - 07:30am PT
Great trip report and pics..Kelsey....as a former icefest director so great to see Nick pic up the torch and run with it....I'd have to say even the originator of ice festivals Dr Andy Embick would be pleased with the turnout and all you young folks breathing new life into this event...congradulations and thank you for all the volunteers and help and participation........
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