Trip Report
First Ascent of the Darth Vader Tower, a virgin Sierra summit
Friday August 28, 2015 12:07pm
Recent internet chitchat about things that don't really matter gave me something to dwell on as I crawled up a steep, sandy slope. While simultaneously fighting manzanita, I used the thicker branches to aid the slow progress through the brush. Thank god it was about an hour till the sun rose and the beam of my headlamp allowed me to focus on twenty foot sections of what was ahead, any more and it would be a bit overwhelming. At some point the sun did come up but it was often hard to see further than twenty feet anyway. It helped me stay "focused on the present," as my yoga instructor suggested! At this point the reader may wonder where in the world was I going and what was I dwelling on. I was going up the south fork of the Granite Creek. According to Google Earth, own eyes and photos from the internet there is a big spire with giant summit that overhangs on all sides, a spire with no recorded ascents.
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Photo by Christopher Templeton <br/>
Domes and spires of Granite Creek/Eag...
Photo by Christopher Templeton
Domes and spires of Granite Creek/Eagle Scout Creek, with the Saber Ridge in the distance. Darth Vader Tower in lower right corner. Route of ascent goes up the middle for the first 2/5ths or so and continues up the sun/shad
Credit: Christopher Templeton
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//Not sure what drew me to adventure climbing five years ago, but I guess it happened when I started to hike up local bay area hills and peaks in Tahoe area. Before I ever did a technical ascent of any kind, before I joined a climbing gym and before I got hooked on getting out to climb in the Sierra Nevada, almost weekly. Somehow I remembered a thread I started on the summitpost.org, trying to find an unclimbed summit: http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/unclimbed-ca-peaks-t52403.html
(you won't see the original post because the user was deleted, but I was quoted a few times. My screen name used to be dynamokiev9899 - for my favorite soccer team)//

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Shylock and the goodies of Granite Creek.
Shylock and the goodies of Granite Creek.
Credit: Vitaliy M.
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Heading into the mist of unknown. Outline of Granite Creek Spire, what we named the formation, can be seen through the smoke in the distance. Range of light delivers the goods! Photo cred: Brian Prince


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Looking up at the giant Sequoias - Redwood Meadow


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First time we came across a backcountry giant Sequoia grove.


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The air quality did suck on the way in. The smoke from the Rough Fire obstructed our lungs and the views.


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Granite Creek


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Preparing for the battle. Soaking our feet in the water, life is rough.

Friends which have done adventure climbs with me in the past may praise the lord they couldn't be on this one, unless your are Daniel - the single person I know who expressed voluntary interest in going to Granite Creek. One of the few people I know who is genuinely excited about diving head first into the unknown. Someone I am pleased to call a friend. Even though at moment he is likely sharpening a giant needle to prick Voodoo doll Vitaliy, to prevent me from climbing other formations that belong on his hit list. Daniel is the guy who was crazy enough to invite a complete stranger from the internet to participate in the First Ascent of the Fortress. It was in the end of summer of 2012, our first true adventure climb, armed with much stronger Tom Ruddy. Fortress was the spot from which I noticed multiple domes on the ridge-lines south of the Angel Wings. From the limited information available in the comprehensive Secor's Sierra Nevada guidebook I knew there was plenty of adventure to be had in the area. Aside from a few sentences about the first ascents of the major formations available in the American Alpine Journal, I was unable to find any record of other humans getting out there and had a lot of excitement about diving into the unknown.


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First view of the giant


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Yeeehhhaaaawww!


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There were a few pleasant things to look at though.


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The beast looming above

The bushwhack was so horrible that we moved down to the creek-bed. As Brian and I continued the never ending approach I looked at my pedometer and calculated that on average we had covered less than one mile per hour. WAYYY less. Boulder hopping from one slippery rock to the other I thought about my own motivations to participate in such outings. But it was a different thought process than what is usually found in the whiny "Why do I climb" write ups. My legs had already acquired multiple cuts, the body was covered in orange dust, the shirt was soaked with sweat, we had no directions for approaching the peak we intended to climb, likely an un-climbed one. Being able to explore things for myself is one of the main reasons I climb and even though this particular approach was especially grueling, there was no second guessing of the decision to come see what it is like. I was wondering what is it in particular that attracts me to the climbing with uncertain outcome and why was I actually enjoying the day. It was tough, but did not feel like a 'suffer fest' - label I see climbers using to describe something that they supposedly enjoy.


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First pitch - scrambled in approach boots..seemed easy at the time. It wasn't.


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Brian hiking the first pitch.


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We took the buttress on the right. Four rope stretchers and one more pitch later we stood on the incredible table-top summit.


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Looking down at the first pitch - from the point where we resumed roped climbing. Technically this one would be 3rd or 4th for most.


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Another jam crack we "hiked"

Few more hours of trucking and we got close to the slabs that led into the unknown. I scrambled up the lower angle dihedral, but after 40 ft of 'hiking' had to pull several solid moves I would use a rope for. Another 20 ft of climbing 5th class slab in approach boots had me fairly terrified and reaching for my harness. Brian and I wisely changed into our climbing shoes and roped up for the next pitch. If I tried to continue 'hiking' it would mean certain death. We un-roped for another 300 ft of scrambling and roped up for five pitches above it. To no surprise, the rock was solid and the face features incredibly cool. That's what I am used to climbing on multiple Western Sierra formations. Knobs and large chicken heads reminiscent of the rock on the Tokopah Domes and the Shuteye Ridge. Even though the climbing was fun and the route was pushed to the knife-edge summit ridge, we did not know if it would be possible to summit the formation till I traversed out from the belay and reached over the low point in the bulge. I was able to grab a chicken head and heel hook another feature so I could mantel onto the final slope which led to a perfect table-top summit! By a table top, I mean a table that could cover the whole dining room - a giant FLAT summit, on top of an airy overhang!!!


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Brian running it the F out.


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Best rock in town! :)


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Tied off chicken heads for pro, with the heaviest imaginable rack. Photo by Brian Prince


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WOOOOOHOOOOOOOO!!!! Awesome face climbing! Photo by Brian Prince.


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Chicken heads led to the final knife edge and the overhanging summit

Suddenly we were in heaven. Shoes off, getting stuffed with snacks, in comfort, far above the bushwhacking and surrounded by the magnificent views of the other High Sierra formations. Even the smoke from the near by wild fire was now appreciated and added a mystical touch to the sight no one had ever experienced. In our modern goal oriented society it is a small step away from the norm of ticking off objectives - having the chance to explore an unknown valley without move by move instructions of what is required to conquer the summit. Figuring one thing at a time without knowing if everything you do is gonna work out. The harmony of mayhem, where I find my peace. There was nothing to dwell on. At the moment I am in the right place - a place where I belong. The place where I feel alive.


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Brian below the summit overhang!


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Top of the formation as seen from Eagle Scout Creek Dome


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!!!!!!!! :) !!!!!!!!!!! :) !!!!!!!! :) !!!!!!!!


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Little register I left. 5.9 could be a bit of a sand-bag, there may be a need for a BIG R and the route may be a little longer than 1000 ft after the re-calculation. Who knows, most people would find the effort to tough to be worth it! :) First and last ascent - KABOOM! . :)


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Fish in the sea!


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West side sunset near our cozy camp

Philosophical discussions aside, we had to get off our lovely formation. We walked all around and found no opportunity for a natural anchor, no bolted ones either. We were definitely the first ones to reach the top! After drilling a bolt for an anchor, first and last of the day, we rapelled to the notch. Another roped pitch of down-climbing and we were off. We hiked over to the ridge-line to stare at the granite formations in the neighboring drainage. Several hours of hell on the way back to camp and we had our dinner. The challenges of the day that passed, the bruises, the cuts, it was all overshadowed by the excitement about the near future. What do we want? What are we gonna end up with? The possibilities seemed endless, North Fork of Granite Creek it is!

More yapping could be found on my blog. This post is sort of a break from the Valhalla series. I wanted to get it out there while all the memories are fresh in my mind and some of the thorns are still stuck in my body. If there is anyone who wants to do a second ever ascent of this spire, I must caution you, you are likely not gonna make it, unless you are crazy, have significantly declined short term memory or hopefully both! It is a tough approach but the area is damn incredible, won't spoil it for anyone who wants to get out there completely, but would provide beta (PM me if you need some).

We also did a new route on the West Face (IV 5.11 C1) of the beautiful Eagle Scout Creek Dome. More about new routes on the Angel Wings, Charubim Dome, Eagle Scout Creek Dome and hopefully much more later! After another week in the backcountry... :)
http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/

  Trip Report Views: 4,896
Vitaliy M.
About the Author
Vitaliy M. is an annoying gym climber from San Francisco.

Comments
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Aug 28, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
Vitaliy, you are an inspiration. Well done.
cat t.

climber
california
  Aug 28, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
Awesome!! Can't wait to hear what goes down in Valhalla this week!

These photos are def inspiring me to get the ankle sounding less like Rice Krispies so I can return to horrifically miserable bushwhacking instead of wasting time on the internet!!!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 28, 2015 - 12:22pm PT
What Crankster said. I get more grateful to you with each TR for sharing your adventures.

John
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
  Aug 28, 2015 - 12:37pm PT
Vitaliy strikes again!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Aug 28, 2015 - 02:38pm PT
And they do it with out Oxygen !



Nice, Fire Season Fun! did you go bandito - a bandana over your face?

Or

Did you have to explain to the cops that your eyes were red from , (cough) climbing?
That would have been funny.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Aug 28, 2015 - 02:16pm PT
Niiiice!!!! You are just

[Click to View YouTube Video]
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
  Aug 28, 2015 - 02:24pm PT
To say you're getting after it is a gross understatement. Well done!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Aug 28, 2015 - 02:27pm PT
Keep it up....

Thanks for the share.

thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Aug 28, 2015 - 02:40pm PT

place where I belong. The place where I feel alive.

Somehow odd to find oneself in that moment of most intense new-ness!

Hooo Deee Hooo! Nothing like that moment of very clear and perhaps hasty devirgination!!!!


Proud!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Aug 28, 2015 - 04:23pm PT
Great pics and text, as always. Well done Lads! Hope to see in the Creek in Rocktober.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Aug 28, 2015 - 04:38pm PT
Or rocktember?! :)

Did you have to explain to the cops that your eyes were red from , (cough) climbing?
That would have been funny.

Year after getting into mountaineering and basic climbing, PellucidWombat and I had a big epic doing the full east arete of Humphreys (5.4) in winter. Too much roped climbing, and we ended up having an open bivy. Near the summit, which is close to 14K. We did summit the next day, almost lost our toes, and got out late that day. Got stopped in bishop for something silly and had the cop question my sobriety. He let us go after I told him the story...
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Aug 28, 2015 - 04:44pm PT
Vitaliy, you're an annoying alpine climber, too. :)

Your photos are really nice, love them.

Love the chickenheads!!!!!!!!

Congrats on a great climb, love reading about all of your endeavors, does an old man good to live vicariously through a young climber. Thanks.
kief

Trad climber
east side
  Aug 28, 2015 - 04:55pm PT
Great stuff, thanks for the vicarious stoke.

After yesterday's draw I'm looking for Kyiv to give Chelsea their comeuppance and go into the next round with Porto. You've got a class winger in Yarmolenko.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Aug 28, 2015 - 08:39pm PT
Another great trip report. TFPU
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Aug 28, 2015 - 08:55pm PT
Picking a number and knocking it down.

Great TR, thanks
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Aug 28, 2015 - 11:22pm PT
Looks dumb

Friends which have done adventure climbs with me in the past may praise the lord they couldn't be on this one, unless your are Daniel - the single person I know who expressed voluntary interest in going to Granite Creek. One of the few people I know who is genuinely excited about diving head first into the unknown. Someone I am pleased to call a friend. Even though at moment he is likely sharpening a giant needle to prick Voodoo doll Vitaliy, to prevent me from climbing other formations that belong on his hit list.
Watch out for falling rock, shoulder injuries, rattlesnakes, hand and foot injuries and stepping in front of the rope right when you fall.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Aug 29, 2015 - 06:03am PT
Spectacular!
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Aug 29, 2015 - 08:36am PT
Vicarious: experienced in the imagination through the actions and descriptions of another person.

This is the value of TRs.
Always a pleasure to read.
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Aug 29, 2015 - 09:03am PT
Like a Boss.
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Aug 29, 2015 - 10:12am PT
I wanted to get it out there while all the memories are fresh in my mind and some of the thorns are still stuck in my body.


Hysterical V!

Thanks for the great photos and fun TR.
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  Aug 29, 2015 - 10:13am PT
Proud - love the full adventure aspect man - WOO HOO!!

Great job!!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 29, 2015 - 10:47am PT
Nice job, great story about the cop!!,
Thanks!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Sep 7, 2015 - 07:31am PT
Thanks for all the nice comments! That place is incredible. Got back to the neighboring creek with a different approach and had a blast. No thorns this time. Much less suffering way more joy. :)
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Sep 18, 2015 - 01:14pm PT
According to nice people at Bearpaw camp this formation has been dubbed The Darth Vader Tower by people who worked there over the years. It is well in sight from Bearpaw.

Here is an aerial photo by Christopher Templeton
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Sep 18, 2015 - 01:24pm PT
TFPU Nice keep it up.
hamersorethumb

Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
  Sep 18, 2015 - 02:22pm PT
Wow cool report!. love the photos with the mist and fog. Thanks.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
  Sep 18, 2015 - 02:40pm PT
Inspiring report! It's on my must do list!
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Sep 18, 2015 - 04:13pm PT
Redwood Meadow is a super cool place. I slept under that big tree. I named it the Temple Tree.

Ranger at Mineral King said the spring dried up this year but it should be good most years.
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