Trip Report
A first trip to Indian Creek
Sunday April 26, 2015 9:29pm
A first trip to Indian Creek
Ed Hartouni
April 26, 2015




Preface

In 1970 Chuck Pratt wrote the memorable article The View From Deadhorse Point from which we learn of the early climbing focus on towers. What would Pratt have thought of the crack climbs that populate the miles, or tens of miles, or maybe even hundreds of miles of cliffs. Cliffs made of fine Wingate Sandstone, dating back to the Triassic 200-250 million years ago, forming strata of 250-450 feet in height

"Wingate Sandstone reddish-brown, massive, cross-bedded fine-grained, well-sorted sandstone. Forms a prominent cliff."

see Foos

Pratt was a crack climber par excellent yet I don't recall if he took up the challenges all around him in Moab, it seems he somehow missed the reason of my journey.

Indian Creek, a crack climbing destination, covers an area unimaginably long, an outside gymnasium in which a climber can practice the art of climbing crack, any size, and often unbelievably constant; 1" width for ever, enough to make you cry in the pain of using the same jams on the same gobbies over and over again, until you run out of red camelots or you bail and have your more diminutive partner take over.

Bela and Linda hatched a plan to return, and asked if I'd like to go too, and I said yes.

The southwest venues have long been a lacuna in my climbing life list... and this year I thought I'd try to fill it in a bit.




How we got there


with three we needed a plan, which we kicked around a bit... part of the kicking was to estimate our total cargo space requirement: 50 cubic feet. Looking at small SUV rentals was discouraging, both for the cost and for the additional fuel expenses of, at best, a 20 mpg vehicle.

At some point I thought that maybe my Jetta Sportswagen (JSW) could do it, at about 38 cuft a roof bag adding 12 cuft gets to the required space. And with highway speeds of 60 to 70 mph a 10 to 20% reduction in fuel economy would still have us in the mid 30 mpg range. REI was having a sale and I snagged a Thule rooftop bag for 20% off, and used my dividend... that was about my share of the rental.

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After 2 hours we were ready to leave.

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Our destination was Mike Friedrich's house in Salt Lake City, we're we'd bivvy in his front room and take off in the morning. He and Kendra and Anne Yeagle were going down for the Sushi Fest and for climbing too.

[In the end we traveled 2519 miles and used 72 gal of Diesel, for an average of 35 mpg, about 17% less than my usual average... total cost $208.51, about $0.08/mile]


The Next Day... Friday

The next day we end up in Moab, texting Jaybro continuously and end up at his current place of employ, Moab Desert Adventures, and he eventually appears with Chasbro, his older brother... there is a third "bro" but they're actually searching the internet for the elevator boy, who may or may not be a part of the family.

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Friday being the first night of the Sushi Fest, we make our wet way over to that venue and meet up with more old and new friends...

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an exciting escape on very muddy roads in the JSW, with one stream crossing had us back at our camp and ready for the next day's climbing.



Sushi-Fest Saturday and the before...

Mike, Kendra, Anne and now Steve Roach are planning to go over to Cat Wall, and are rushing to beat the presumed hoard of Colorado climbers they are sure are headed there... we leave later, along with Grug and the sweet Elizabeth, and are the second and third cars in at the crag. (Of course, Grug has a CO plate...)

Anne belays Steve on More Than One Way 5.11- which is overhanging and somewhat wide (fists), Grug arriving at the scene.

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This ends up being my first Indian Creek top-rope and I didn't have any problem with it... seems that the size of the crack is more an indication of the difficulty than the grade, which is not only irrelevant, but an inhibition to getting on climbs.

Linda TR's Trip to the Vet 5.10,
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Anne being lowered off of Catmandu 5.10+ after her lead
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Mike enjoys Bachelor Party 5.11+
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From the base of Cat Wall we can look down towards the Sushi-Fest venue, and also see the thunderstorms tracking towards us.
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The storms make it through quickly and leave beautiful light at sunset easing us into the magic of nature's bounty.
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We become the hoards... but we're mostly Californians so that's ok...

Sunday in Donnelly Canyon we have the arrival of Mo and Steve from the Bay Area and Nate and Evelyn. We end up doing Chocolate Corner 5.9 and Elephant Man (p1) 5.10-, I lead both of these.

Me leading Elephant Man (Bela Logan image)
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Credit: Bela Logan
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Evelyn does a very difficult direct start (5.13?) to Mr. Peanut 5.11+ which is fingery but with a lot of other ways to do it involving near by corners and edges.

Mo at the roof of Mr. Peanut
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We're all trying to lead the routes as well as top rope some of the more difficult ones... so our "productivity" isn't great, but we're having fun.

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Now we're on vacation!

On Monday many have departed and we're on our own. A discussion at breakfast has us going out to Broken Tooth to check out a couple of climbs.
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The first, Rock Lobster has a team on it as we arrive:
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and we dally too long regarding Incisor, another team jumps on it...
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as we wander about the locals regard us with disdain
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And after being absolutely spanked and shutdown on Midnight Oil 5.10+ 1" thin hand crack we have had a rope hung for us by yet another party, on Gold Crown 5.10+, a perfect hand sized crack on an overhanging wall.

Steve runs a lap on Gold Crown
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Bela floats it and hatches a plan to return for the lead. A good workout has us enjoying the first moon of the month dancing with Venus
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while Linda creates another of her delicious dinners.
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The late and not entirely long enough rest day, and it's aftermath

On Tuesday we decide to take a rest day and go to Moab to resupply and eat... Wednesday has us back out to Donnelly Canyon to do Generic Crack 5.9+

Linda in the first pod...
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Bela above the pod...
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and me high on the oh-so-good hand section above
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Credit: Bela Logan
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Linda fires Cave Route 5.10d, which is thin hands and torturous feet (for me) she floats it... but it is a rather dark route suited for warm days... and also a nice private place to change into Lycra.
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Nate belays Evelyn on a climb I can't recall, but it was much harder than I wanted to try right then.
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I opted for a lap on The Last Battle, 5.11 and finished with a lap on Our Piece of Real Estate 5.11a
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A really good day. We got back to camp and found Jaybro's tents, in flagrante delicto, who knew!
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But after we got that sorted out, we settled into yet another beautiful sunset.
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on the not so pente glissante, crushing

On Thursday it was up to Reservoir Wall first doing an unnamed 5.10 big hand crack:
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and Linda does a spectacular job leading Pente 5.11, Bela takes a lap on TR as do I and Jaybro.
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We go out and look at another route Will-mento but the entry moves seemed to sketch for the moment.

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Jaybro took us on a ride into Canyonlands to see some roof bouldering... but there were these landscapes to wonder in, also.
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---
A crowning achievement

On the last day, Bela went back to Gold Crown and nearly lead it clean... fantastic job. Jaybro took a lap, and Linda a half, but I didn't have anything left

The ritual hand taping
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Cruising through the lower half and starting the second overhang
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Winding down in Moab

Later, we attended a pizza party at Ferretlegger and SCgoat's compound in Moab... including showers. Staying the night there, we left Moab wet for the Bay Area via Las Vegas.

A big thanks to all of you I got to climb with and have fun with this last week, but a special thanks to Bela, Linda and Jaybro

  Trip Report Views: 3,880
Ed Hartouni
About the Author
Ed Hartouni is a trad climber from Livermore, CA.

Comments
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
  Apr 26, 2015 - 09:53pm PT
Looks like a very fun and successful trip. Yet to be there myself. It's on the bucket list along with a lot of other areas.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Apr 26, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
Damn Dawg! You all did an excellent sampling of the Creek's treasures . . . Thanks once again ED for the climbing stoke.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Apr 26, 2015 - 10:19pm PT


cast [X]
climbs [X]
writing [X]
photos [X]
scenery [XXXX]

Thanks Ed. Nice TR!


OK, maybe next time better lighting on the food/dinner photo.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Apr 26, 2015 - 10:40pm PT
nom nom!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Apr 26, 2015 - 11:08pm PT
The only thing better than reading about it was living (parts of) it!
Nice, Ed and thanks for making it happen!

"Catsup"? Never heard that name before. Though the original name was unprintable on Supertopo, ( but not rock and ice, though in acronym style) and th e FA team were uncommunicative with the guidebook author.

Great time, great tale!
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Apr 26, 2015 - 11:22pm PT
So glad you got out to do Utah abd what a fine documenting of the trip you have here. Love that it is your "first" TR. Hope our trips can coincide next time. Yay linda! Yay bela! Yay jaybro! And of course, yay Ed!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
  Apr 26, 2015 - 11:38pm PT
miscreant upsidedowm climber jabro
labrat

Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
  Apr 27, 2015 - 12:14am PT
A pleasure to read and look upon. Thanks for posting up!
Erik
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Apr 27, 2015 - 05:26am PT
Now if we can only get Scuffy out here.....
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Apr 27, 2015 - 06:02am PT
Yeehaw!

Love how your party of nine is afeard of the 'hoards'! welcome to IC ….
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Apr 27, 2015 - 06:58am PT
Nice, Ed - great photos.
Jones in LA

Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
  Apr 27, 2015 - 06:59am PT
Wow, Mr.H! Beautiful climbing, beautiful shots, fabulous TR!

Rich Jones
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Apr 27, 2015 - 08:08am PT

*sigh* ...climbing in Moab...one day...


great TR!! - that Crack House looks cool!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Apr 27, 2015 - 08:44am PT
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Apr 27, 2015 - 08:49am PT
Nice TR Mr. Hartouni!! Cool geology combined with amazing cracks. Hard to beat that. Note to self; bring good tent stakes.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Author's Reply  Apr 27, 2015 - 09:40am PT
Practical Notes

Grug mentioned the first day that it was amazing how worked you could get doing just 4 pitches of Indian Creek crack climbs. And I think that is true... the steep cracks and proximity of the climbs seems to combine with the dry desert air and the Sun's intensity to wring a big effort out of you.

1) Drink lots of water - I didn't nearly get enough and it probably limited me physically
2) Take rest days - don't know what the proper frequency is, my RCTM would say one day on, one day off (you can always go off with your camera and hike to amazing photo venues).
3) Eat to maintain strength, (though I lost 5 pounds over the trip... I can afford that, you might not)

My yoga teacher would say: "honor your body." If you do that, you'll squeeze a lot more out of your trip.

On tents, while it is warm in Indian Creek in this season, the tents with a rain fly and mesh walls tend to fill with dust blown in on the winds. The fine meshes let fine red dust through, and this can fill up your sleeping space... contributing to stuffy noses.

ALSO

you might try to train on steep crack where ever you can find it, gym, your local crag, etc... and just crank out laps, and build to consecutive laps (even down climbing). Having that sort of endurance will give you a good base for climbing at Indian Creek.

As far as leading there, pick a size, not a grade... and start out with enough gear to get you through your first leads with minimal anxiety. Later, you'll bump/walk gear or run out long sections of secure jamming where your feet are great and your hands greater.

The rock seemed much more competent than Red Rocks for cams, I never placed a nut there and don't see the need. If you need to borrow more gear the other climbers are generally more than willing to lend you pieces... reciprocate! and please make sure to get the gear back to the lenders... Indian Creek has a unique cooperative vibe which was an honor and a pleasure to participate in..


it's the only place I've been where someone walks over to our campsite to complain that the Grateful Dead playlist isn't playing loud enough... "could you please turn it up?" let alone twice in one night by different groups.


hmmm... anyone have some dancing bear Lycra?
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Apr 27, 2015 - 09:42am PT
That's awesome Ed. I (and I'm sure far better climbers as well) think it's just a humbling place. Everybody gets schooled. Sure makes the beer taste good.

Here's sand in your ears!
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Apr 27, 2015 - 09:14am PT
Kick ASS TR!
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Apr 27, 2015 - 10:33am PT
Good stuff Ed!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Apr 27, 2015 - 11:12am PT
WOW a lot of good photos in this one Ed! Well done with climbing, stories and climbing content!
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Apr 27, 2015 - 12:09pm PT
What a nice TR, Ed. Thanks!
I'm headed there myself for the first time and I have to admit I am a bit apprehensive. I've been doing almost no "pure" crack climbing for the past couple of years and my fitness/endurance sucks. My new local gym in Upland has one hand/fist crack, all of 30 feet high I think. Even three laps on that and I'm tired! Well, I guess we'll see how it goes...
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Apr 27, 2015 - 12:19pm PT
I must say, I was impressed with Ed's climbing. Ed, Linda, and Bela were a fun crew to hang out with.
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
  Apr 27, 2015 - 12:40pm PT
I had not seen Linda in eons (or so it seems). We gave each other the biggest warm oh-so-good-to-see-you-my-friend hug.

She only bought in for one night originally. Oddly, she came back for a second evening of sushi.

Great to see you as well Ed! Still want to take you up on the scanning offer.
yosguns

climber
  Apr 27, 2015 - 01:58pm PT
Yay! Love the report and photos. Thanks, Ed! Looks like a great time was had by all, with many highlights.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Apr 27, 2015 - 06:03pm PT
A few more images;
What more can be said?
Linda , Crowning
Bela & Ed chilling
Pagan Monkey Boy & The Doctor, together again!
Small but mighty, Linda Lu, Way up on Pente! - an 80 meter, barely gets you down again!

More to come!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 27, 2015 - 06:14pm PT
I always love your posts and TRs Ed, especially when they involve spandex 😀
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Apr 27, 2015 - 06:33pm PT
Nice trip report, Ed. I agree, some training on steep crack climbs helps. The first time I went there, I had my rear end handed to me. I still had fun, though. A great place to climb.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
  Apr 27, 2015 - 06:55pm PT
Great story telling which always makes for a great TR. Haven't seen Pagan since Facelift maybe 2009. Howdy Dude as well as a howdy to The Doctor.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Apr 27, 2015 - 08:55pm PT
Splitter!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Apr 28, 2015 - 03:10am PT
Some more images that need a place here;Oh well today was back to the grind
Life is harsh!
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
  Apr 27, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
Thanks for the share. A first rate trip, great crew, and it looks like a good time was had by all.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Apr 27, 2015 - 09:38pm PT
Excellent fun on all counts!

Hey Ed, You should plan on bagging some of the Bridger Jack summits on the next go round!! Pretty cool climbing over there too!!
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Apr 27, 2015 - 09:46pm PT
Awesome TR, Ed!

Best lycra EVER!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Apr 27, 2015 - 09:44pm PT
Looks like a ton of fun. Thanks for taking us along for the ride. What was the best route of the trip?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Apr 28, 2015 - 06:37pm PT
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Apr 28, 2015 - 05:59am PT
Nice job. The new all climbing st Ed is off to a good start. Gotta love the creek.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
  Apr 28, 2015 - 06:11am PT
What a great road trip!

You have to love a TR that uses the word " lacuna" !
susu

climber
East Bay, CA
  Apr 28, 2015 - 12:08pm PT
Seems you guys made the best of memories this trip. What beautiful photos! So nice to see all of you guys captured on some most aesthetic lines and positions. I appreciate this TR for if we ever get back there again, I would like to look this up for its great info & stoke. TFPU!
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
  Apr 28, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
Cool! Glad you finally got out there.
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
  Apr 28, 2015 - 01:25pm PT
superb
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
  Apr 28, 2015 - 04:13pm PT
JAY! starting up

johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Apr 28, 2015 - 05:12pm PT
NO! The humanity; whoever invented lycra should be taken out behind the barn and beaten with a barrel stave.
Friend

climber
  Apr 28, 2015 - 09:44pm PT
Great tr!
What does a valley local think of Moab being called the crack climbing capital of the world, etc? I have my own opinion but what do you think ed?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Author's Reply  Apr 28, 2015 - 10:31pm PT
Indian Creek is a great place for crack climbing, many more opportunities for steep crack than the Valley.

Not really comparable, but you could get very strong at IC and probably transfer the conditioning to the Valley, but not so much the other way around.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Apr 29, 2015 - 03:42am PT
I have spent literally years of climbing days in each the valley and in Indian Creek. The creek is a much more specialized, concentrated crack climbing experience. If most or of all the cracks in the valley had the concistancy and continuous nature of climbs like Tales of a Power, the first pitch of outer limits, the 10b handcrack pitch of Hotline, the last pitch of new dimensions, or the enduro pitch of Astroman, spread out over a wide ranges of sizes and severity , but more 5.11 than anything else, it would more closely resemble the climbing at the creek.
Also there are more non crack footholds in the valley and the granite generally has greater friction.

Astroman say, is a climb with a lot of crackclimbing in it, but it is not a pure crackclimb in the sense that Primrose dihedrals or pale fire are.
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Apr 29, 2015 - 09:00am PT
Great post TFPU.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
  Apr 29, 2015 - 11:15am PT
A cluster f? A group of merry pranksters? Monkeywrenchers? No...just Valley Climbers extraordinare giving the Creek a little skin.


Susan
crøtch

climber
  Apr 29, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
Bravo! Great photos and TR and great first Creek trip!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Apr 29, 2015 - 07:35pm PT

As usual, a stellar report from Ed. What a wonnerful trip!

But no pictures of Elizabeth????

(just kidding). . .
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Apr 29, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
Thanks for another great trip report and useful beta!

MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Apr 30, 2015 - 06:00pm PT
A wonderful TR. Much appreciated. Excellent pics.

We were in Moab April 25/26. It rained but coincidentally(?) Robert got to watch Arsenal versus Chelsea at the coffee place.
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