While it appears this climber is leading the fourth pitch of Tangerine Trip, he is actually cleaning. This pitch climbs up about 60 feet then diagonals down and right to the belay. This section is very scary to clean.
Credit: William Zittrich
While it appears this climber is leading the fourth pitch of Tangerine Trip, he is actually cleaning. This pitch climbs up about 60 feet then diagonals down and right to the belay. This section is very scary to clean.
A while back my partner took a fall in this exact position while cleaning. The last piece before the anchor was a big fixed lost arrow that I penjid to the belay from. He was rigging a lower out on it and the arrow snapped in half, leaving a rusted half still in the crack.
I had his line tied into the upper anchor bolt with a clove hitch and that is what he fell onto. It completely welded the knot and we had to cut the rope to get it off the biner. Also, the cam of his gri-gri had completely flipped around on the rope pinching it severely, we had to smash it with a hammer to open it. Lucky he had taken his jugs off the rope right before the pin broke. I think this was nearly a factor two fall.