Ettore
Trad climber
Grass Valley
|
 |
Super fun route with really good pro the whole way up. A little slick on the bottom so make sure you get a cam in early just in case. The second half after the mini chimney is really solid and the views you get of el cap are awesome. Super bomb anchor at the top.
|
Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
|
|
Well, I tried to do the finger jam and get the left toe into the crack but kept barn dooring to the right.
So, I ended up liebacking it. It was very strenuous.
I've never tried a finger crack before so I guess that's what I will have to practice: finger locks.
|
CalicoJack
climber
CA
|
|
Great rock - fun climb. I think I locked and jammed all but one or two moves, which made for a solid, gear placement friendly session. Lying it back seemed like it would be a lot more strenuous!
|
spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
|
|
Climbed 2/3/07 - Was a bit cool, might help with friction...
Very fun climb. I TR'ed it last year. Came back and fired right up it.
I agree with the stemming out of the pod. However with my hand size I can't straight in jam *right* above the pod, I have to lieback a move.
It's not that hard of a 5.9 lieback. The bottom goes easy if you counterpressure properly.
|
burp
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
|
|
Everyone I've ever talked to lieback the route. Due to my height and weight, steep liebacking sucks for me.
However, I found the jams and fingerlocks to be excellent. Coming out of the alcove was a little offhands for me for a couple of feet, but perfect hands follow. If you can't jam it then you must have funky finger/hand sizes OR it may pay to practice over and over on this route until you can.
Haven't climbed alot of routes in the valley, but La Casita right is one of my favorites due to the awesome jams.
|
Fingerlocks
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
|
|
I lead this pitch soon after I started climbing and I did the full lieback: fingers wrapped around the edge and feet smeared on the face. It felt like glass, And I was sure I'd skid off at any moment. Putting a piece in was horrible.
A few years later I came back. Armed with more technique, I expected it to go better but still feel sketchy. I was surprised that it now felt positive. What changed? The second time I climbed it just as Karl says.
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
A lot of folks struggle on the initial lieback. A friend of mine puked in the alcove above it once after a cafe breakfast many years ago. Two alternatives,
If you are brave, fire right up until you can get a hand jam before you place a piece.
If you are smart, wear sensitive shoes and twist your toes in the thin crack and finger jam it. You can walk up the thing if you get your toe and and trust your feet.
Look for a stem to get you out of the alcove and jam, don't lieback, the crack after the alcove if you want to learn Yosemite crack climbing.
Peace
karl
|
Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
|
|
ANCHOR CONDITIONS
The following anchor conditions are provided by <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/'> The American Safe Climbing Assn.</a> Please support the ASCA. so that they can continue to replace dangerous anchor bolts on classic climbs throughout the United States. Find out how to help at <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/help.html'>www.safeclimbing.org</a>
 - - - - - - - - - - - - -
La Cosita - 2 bolts replaced by ASCA on 6/99 Belay is now bomber.
|
|
The base routes are scattered to the left of the SE Buttress.Photo: Chris McNamara
|
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
| | | | | | | |
