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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 20, 2008 - 10:36pm PT
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These first few stories are from some 'in memoria' that were published in Climbing Magazine not too long after Bill Feuerer's death.
I have revised my version, but have reproduced the others for those of you who didn't see the originals.
I will present them here in this order: Harding, Powell, Sykes, McNutt, and finally my revision.
There is more to tell.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 10:37pm PT
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DOLT by Warren Harding
Dolt? What can one say? From the beginning I considered him rather crazy; but just nicely so nothing "heavy", nothing that would ultimately result in such drastic action on his part. Looking back, I now realize that I never really knew Dolt at all. Perhaps no one did.
But this retrospection does recall some of the incidents mostly zany, humorous that seemed to occur during our rather brief association. I don't actually remember our first meeting, All sorts of things seemed to be happening at that time. We were plunging rashly into new routes on Yosemite Valley's virtually untouched walls, developing new equipment, accruing experience in big wall climbing logistics. Dolt probably appeared in Yosemite around 1956 or 1957. By then I had been climbing about four years, I had begun to find my way up some "big walls" in the company of various granite gropers some of whom I got on well with others not so well. Temperment plays a rather important part in climbing teams! At any rate, I found myself talking with one Mark Powell, who was in the process of completing his transformation from a mild mannered, plump fisherman to a lean mean rock climbing tiger. After a few climbs together, we declared ourselves ready to tackle the Northwest Face of Half Dome.
Spring of 1957 found us in Yosemite Valley all set to have a go at this very impressive wall, In the preceding months while climbing in the desert country,, Mark had met and formed a rather symbiotic association with one William Feuerer soon to be known as "Dolt". Everything seemed fine we were obviously a formidable climbing team except an even more formidable climbing team was already on Half Dome and doing a great job of making the first ascent, We skulked and grumbled about the Valley for a few days, then in an egocentric fit, decided to see what we could do with the face of El Capitan.
Climbing hardware and techniques in general had much room for development in those days. This provided the Dolt a fine opportunity to throw his keen analytical mind into high gear. He literally plunged into the task of creating new wide, wide pitons and other exciting equipment for this great ascent, Some of the concepts were quite sound, workable others, such as the Dolt Winch and Cart, were wildly impractical. Ofcourse, Mark and I must share the credit for this dubious creation.
As we bungled along with this venture through 1957, things began to happen to us,, Little things at first, like my leader fall on my first day of climbing. I sustained a bad rope burn on my left hand. A few days later, unaccountably, a bolt hanger broke dropping Dolt a few feet forcing from him a startled squawk similar to that made by a strangling chicken. Other things we discovered that our fixed rope (III manila), left in June, had nearly worn through in several places by November, Powell's disasterous accident on another climb. Little things, like Dolt getting his beard caught in a prusik loop while we were installing a new fixed line nylon this time!
All these incidents seemed to pile up in Dolt's mind seemed to be "telling him something. Perhaps he had never really forgotten what must have been a truly terrifying experience: as a beginner, prusiking up theTotem Pole in a very high wind. In any case, he became deeply worried. He began reciting ominous quotations from the Bible. He talked about dropping
out of the El Cap project. By the end of 1957, with such people as Al Steck and Wally Reed, we had reached (and named) Dolt Tower. At this point "true genius" reared its exciting head!
From Dolt Tower, it was a clear, unbroken sweep of granite to the base of the wall about 1200 feet below. Why not set up a hauling system to eliminate the brutish work of prusiking with heavy loads? A splendid opportunity to show how truly bright we were! The result was the Dolt Cart and Winch. The Cart was a marvelous contraption made of bicycle wheels and some sort of a frame. The Winch was actually a windlass it simply moved rope. The whole system had only one drawback. It didn't work!
In getting the Winch parts and its 1200 foot length of 3/8 inch nylon up to Dolt Tower, Dolt and I had one more traumatic experience. Around Easter 1958 we started up our fixed ropes. It was raining lightly, but we thought it would soon stop, It didn't. It got worse, turning to sleet and snow, I managed to get the sack of Winch parts and the trailing 1200 foot rope to a point in Stoveleg Crack a couple of hundred feet below Dolt Tower. Deciding I'd about "had it". I tied off the load and returned to Dolt Hole where Dolt was waiting. By now it was snowing hard and we were both in pretty bad shape,
We were appalled at the thought of descending fixed ropes in such conditions, but there was no other choice, I started down first, eventually reaching the ground without undue drama. Rich Calderwood met me with a canteen of hot bouillon. While sipping this delightful liquid, we watched Dolt get into the last rappel. He looked pretty shaky. The last stance on the fixed rope was up about 180 feet. We had to tack on an extra 15 feet of rope to reach the ground, leaving a knot at a rather awkward place. Apparently Dolt had forgotten about this or was too shot to care. At any rate, he just slid down the rope and ran right into the knot. He sort of collapsed and hung there like a dead man. It was quite a hassle getting him free of the knot and down that last few feet. Dolt seemed rather shaken by this experience and, later on, began to quote the Bible more frequently especially in matters relating to impending doom.
Dolt only went on the wall once more after that. Later In the spring of 1958, Mark Powell thought he had his demolished ankle pretty well put back together and wanted,to see how well it would work. So the three of us headed up the fixed ropes to Dolt Tower and pushed the route upward. Things went well enough up to El Cap Towers. We were using Dolt's latest creation adjustable wide, wide bongs (spacers, wing nuts, etc.) to get us up the wide crack which separates the two towers. Still okay to the top of Texas Flake, then trouble!
Dolt had decided that our 1/4 inch drills should be ground down slightly, presumably to make the 1/4 inch by 1 inch Star Dryvin bolts fit tighter. Fine. But, as we discovered too late, this eliminated the reverse taper effect in the drills. They bound up terribly, making it virtually impossible to drill a hole 1 inch deep. Powell, never noted for his patience in placing bolts, led from Texas Flake. After a few hours, Mark was fuming with frustrations and had put in a ladder of rather shaky looking bolts; also, his ankle was killing him so he came down.
I took over the lead, finished off the ladder with a couple more dubious anchors, reached a crack of sorts and started nailing up toward Boot Flake. Maybe I was just getting nervous, but it appeared to me that this 60 foot high slab of granite was not especially well attached to the wall. A little later, my suspicions were confirmed when I demonstrated empirically that Boot Flake is indeed rather loose!'. About halfway up, I was standing on a Dolt bong, reaching up driving another, which loosened the one I was standing on! And so down the wall. About a 30 foot fall with a loud clanging of hardware this part of the pitch was around a corner, out of sight of the belayer. From Texas Flake, Powell's voice, "What's going on out there?"
"I fell."
"Oh, are you okay?"
"Yes.
Well, get on back up there!"
Getting myself reorganized, I regained my previous position and continued on to the top of Boot Flake which proved to be our high point for that attempt.
It also proved to be the last time either Dolt or Mark would go up on the "Nose". Mark's ankle just wasn't holding up and Dolt seemed to have had his fill of this type of climbing. I saw him only once more after that. I was in Los Angeles a few years later and visited Dolt at his home and plant. We had dinner, looked at and discussed some of his latest projects.
Since that time, we communicated very infrequently in 1967 a telephone call to Jackson, Wyoming to request my permission to reprint an El Cap article in the projected Dolt Pub: "Crack(!)”. He phoned again to my hospital room in Sacramento when I was injured in 1968. The last word I ever got from Dolt was a note last fall commenting on my "disclaimer (Caldwell) letter."
In the past few years I've followed Dolt's amazing career only through advertisements in various climbing magazines, so I was really shook to learn, upon my return in February 1972 from a lecture tour on the east coast, that Dolt had "done himself in." There's no way of explaining rationalizing something like this; you just have to learn to accept it.
Scene: Camp 4, Yosemite Valley, sometime in 1957. Campfire burning low. Dolt and Warren Harding sitting staring into the embers, sipping a last glass of wine (all the others have sacked out passed out?)
Action – dialogue: Dolt suddenly rises to his feet his beard bristles - his cold, pale blue eyes flash,
"Warren, I'm going to learn to fly!!"
"Sure, Dolt I know you can do it," Warren replies with the uneasy feeling that Dolt isn't thinking about airplanes…
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 10:38pm PT
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DOLT by Mark Powell
Despite the mental disparagement of his nickname, Bill "Dolt" Feuerer was a unique, highly complex individual. He was occasionally brilliant, frequently perceptive, and always creative. In view of the contradiction between his nickname and actual abilities, and because of his contributions to the sport of rock climbing, it is fittingly appropriate, in the aftermath of his tragic passing, to characterize and relate Dolt experiences which I was fortunate to share.
The Dolt was born in Illinois, in the early 1930’s, but apparently was orphaned at an early age. He was reared by a guardian to whom he maintained a lifelong devotion - until the age of majority, when he entered military service. In the autumn of 1955, while stationed at Castle Air, near Merced California, Dolt became interested in mountain activities, particularly rock climbing. To be sure his first climbing experience was abysmal (having inordinate difficulty on 3rd and 4th class rock with an overhead rope), but he displayed strength and persistence, even then, that were invaluable personal attributes for the major climbs in which he was to later engage.
During the spring of 1956, Dolt and I journeyed for several weeks through Navajo land of Four Corners country. Our primary purpose was to reconnoiter the Totem Pole and Cleopatra’s Needle, but we also ascended Shiprock via the regular route and, inadvertently, scaled Agathlan by the treacherous east dike. The mode of transportation for this trip was an antiquated Chevrolet, of unknown vintage and dubious quality, which the Dolt consistently manipulated erratically at incredibly high velocities while simultaneously expressing an omniscient smile intended to convey that we were immune to physical harm. I vividly recall contemplating that my manifest fate should be death from a climbing accident rather than the ignominious statistic of a traffic fatality. We later christened this vehicle in Yosemite’s Camp 4 with one of Harding's
wine bottles sans the liquid as the Doltmobile.
Other eccentric incidents of this memorable Four Corners interlude were (1) my stomach growling from uncontrollable hunger as we passed, at 80 miles per hour, the last restaurant in 100 miles with Dolt obliviously inquiring, "Shall we stop?"; (2) of rapidly negotiating a narrow, sinuous dirt road on the forested Kaibab Plateau, and encountering a wildly "careening logging truck while Bill nonchalantly honked the Doltmobile's horn; and (3) on Agathlan, his plaintive upward cry from the base of its exacting first pitch that his brain would not transmit the message to his fingers on techniques for tying a bowline knot to his waist.
And yet Dolt possessed a remarkable depth of compassion. At Gallup, New Mexico, for instance, in a reflective mood concerning the hardships of his youth, he impulsively purchased a bagful of groceries for an impoverished Indian family. On another occasion, driving between Mexican Hat and Shiprock (then a circuitous, poorly signed, virtual dirt track across the lonely, windswept margins of northeastern Arizona) we chanced upon a destitute Mexican couple who were automotively stranded. In spite of the Doltmobile’s threadbare rubber and limited fuel supply, Bill donated, without hesitation (while I cowered in typical conservative consternation), our only spare tire and half of the gasoline.
In May 1957, the Dolt was liberated from military servitude and, for the ensuing summer, elected to vagabond with the world's "first hippies", Warren Harding and myself. At this time, as a corollary to his priestly stature, Bill cultivated a magnificent beard of such appearance that a small boy was overheard to state, "Mommy, is that man Jesus Christ?" Shortly thereafter, we commenced an ascent of Lower Cathedral Rock's forbidding North Buttress. While attacking the crux overhang 150 feet above talus level, I felt frustratingly constrained to shout, "God damn this climb." Almost instantly, issuing unmistakably from the Dolt's belay position below, came the supremely authori¬tative reply, "I shall think about it."
But it was in Camp 4, around a summer night's campfire, that Dolt received his name. Several members of the 1957 Yosemite climbing clan (Wally Reed, Herb Swedlund, Harding, Bill, and me), with all conversational inhibitions eliminated through the excesses of prolific wine consumption, began openly discussing Bill's idiosyncratic aberrations. The collective judgements Bills conduct was oafishly unpredictable he was guilty of doltish behavior hence, he stood convicted as the "Dolt". Bill arose with wine sloshing from his cup and, performing a foot scorching dance upon the fire, asserted again and again, "Yes, I am the Dolt”. And indeed he was, to all who knew him well, accepting an affectionate name that was to endure the remainder of his life.
It was also in 1957 that Harding and I, having been "aced out" of Half Dome’s Northwest Face by the ubiquitous Royal Robbins and two companions, turned our deflated egos to one of the world's largest monoliths, El Capitan. During a
six day siege, the Stoveleg Crack and wild swinging pendulums were problems of first magnitude, and the Dolt's personal assets unquestionably contributed to the resolution of these problems. That is, although Bill never achieved the expertise of a great leader, nonetheless, his physical strength and perserverance, combined with experience, gave security, confidence, and improved execu¬tion to the skill demands placed upon us in the unknown world of El Capitan. Moreover, his mechanical ingenuity, when a particular difficulty was explained, demonstrated a level of creativity possessed by few climbers. Out of his assiduous mind and hands were delivered the Dolt Winch, large aluminum channel pitons, and even pins that were expandable (by screw) to any size. But this gadgetry was merely a forerunner to the superb climbing equipment he was to design and manufacture in later years. Other memories come swiftly now, memories of (1) staggering about on Sickle Ledge under the influence of nightly brew that was laboriously hauled (with 500 feet of rope) from the rock base where it had been reverently attached by Harding's "chickiebird" of the moment; (2) Dolt screaming into the heavens that, as the "Son of God", his life was unjustly imperiled when a magnesium bolt hanger snapped under the pressure of his weight; and (3) the Dolt’s exultant remark upon returning to Sickle Ledge after the rigors of Stoveleg Crack, "I have just become the first man on the face of this earth to have pissed in Dolt Hole.”
With the onset of autumn 1957, Dolt’s bourgeoise ideals commenced to surface. He moved to southern California, secured employment with Douglas Aircraft, took up residence in Venice. For a while we shared a dilapidated one room pad that was invariably disordered chaotically and which, as one would suspect, became known as the “Dolt Shack". However, Dolt's enthusiasm for actual climbing began to wane; thus the close climbing partnership we had mutually enjoyed slowly dissolved. On the other hand, Dolt’s manifold interest in the preparation of climbing equipment sharply increased. In this equipment he sought excellence of quality and over the many intervening years of our friendship, as a great admirer of Dolt's creative skills, I offered encouragement at every opportunity. It is true that the colorful Dolt had varied and individualized relationships with many people, but in the context of his equipment each of us who was or had been an intimate acquaintance recognized that Bill was, above all, a master craftsman.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 10:38pm PT
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DOLT by Ken McNutt
The name William Feuerer was known in the Yosemite and southern California climbing communities, but the "Dolt" was known to the entire climbing world. Bill "Dolt" Feuerer's identity as designer and manufacturer of the ultimate in technical climbing hardware overshadowed his considerable reputation as a Yosemite and California technical climbing pioneer. The intenseness of his personality and the variety of strong directions it took had to be witnessed to know it was genuine. His enthusiasm for new designs and uses in hardware seemed inexhaustible.
One morning early in the Dolt's manufacturing career, as I walked toward the entrance of the huge aerospace plant where we both worked, a grimy gray VW Beetle bounced over the curb and skidded to a stop on the sidewalk. The Dolt's wildly grinning face popped through the driver's window. He shouted, "Look at these pins!" He had been up all night forging, burring, tumbling, and polishing a shoebox full of glistening blade pitons, no two of which were alike. He too was bound for work at the aerospace plant, but he explained at such length the merits of each shape that we were both late. He scorned other makes of hardware, "Chouinard will eat his heart out when he sees the DOLT EYE", and he emphasized that only the very best possible, regardless of cost, was good enough for climbers. Although his "job" as a test engineer forced him into a laboratory environment, his hands were those of a blacksmith.
Dolt's social behavior was abstruse. His late night phone calls, that invariably woke me from a sound sleep, to recite a freshly composed poem on climbing, or to talk about hardware or life, were typical of his eccentric behavior,¬
The Dolt's chosen exit from this life showed how little anyone really knew of this uncommonly complex person. I'm sure that the climbers who knew even that little bit will agree that we are all a full measure poorer by Dolt's departure and that the climbing world will not see his kind again.
Editor’s note: Ken McNutt died of cancer in 1995 at the age of 72.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 10:39pm PT
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DOLT by Dick Sykes
I knew two sides of the Dolt, one the mountaineer, as opposed to his fame as a rock climber, and the other a colleague in the aerospace industry. In the summer of 1965 I was venturing out to 3rd and 4th class climbing in the Sierra Nevada and made a number of climbs with Bill. I particularly recall ascents of Mount Sill and Mount Abbott. What impressed me about climbing with Bill was his competence and willingness to train others. Bill was the first person I had ever seen use an ice axe with finesse. He would chastise me for strapping on crampons too quickly as the climbing angle increased. He reasoned that overuse of crampons robbed one of the opportunity to develop a feeling of balance and confidence on steep snow or ice, and interferred with learning to appreciate snow conditions. On Mount Sill I was injured in a serious fall at about 13,900 feet. Bill placed anchors allowing me to rappel with sprained ankles down to Palisade Glacier. We discussed the options for getting me to the roadhead. Bill's decision to walk me out proved to be the right one.
On our ascent of Mount Abbott, Bill had taken me up a rotten 4th class gully and safely shepherded me back to our Keltys after several miles of cross country travel. He deliberately chose tricky spots to descend, and insisted that I downclimb 3rd class with my Kelty. He explained that it was good emergency training.
At the giant aerospace factory where he worked for over ten years, I saw the other side of Bill. He was a technician who became an engineer through hard work, inventiveness, and craftsmanship not a common feat ten years ago. Bill's electronic packages demonstrated the same high standards as his incomparable Dolt Pins.
Bill did not complete college. He had a running battle with college physics. Physics or the calculus won every time. He refused offers of tutoring, There seemed to be some sort of block In his very practical mind against the absurdities of masses sliding down inclined planes. Perhaps because of his educational deficiencies, Bill worked hard and long hours. His workday exceeded nine hours in aerospace while he worked late into the night at his own shop. It is saddening to sit here in front of two beautiful photographs that the Dolt presented me in remembrance of the Sierra adventures we shared, and realize that this generous, seemingly tireless person reached his limit of endurance.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 10:42pm PT
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DOLT by Don Lauria
Over six years a friendship had developed between Dolt and me. A friendship whose depth became apparent through tragedy and perhaps was never apparent to Dolt, Dolt may never have believed that he was loved by anyone.
I first met William Andrew Feuerer in Yosemite's Camp 4 the day in 1966 that he began touting his latest innovation, the nylon hammer holster. He accosted me after determining that I owned part of a mountain shop and I might be interested in selling his holster. In the months that followed, Dolt began to frequent our shop, always bringing in his latest ideas for discussion. He became a fixture. He made daily phone calls and nightly visits. He was always anxious to determine the needs of the contemporary climber. Did we think nuts were going to catch on in the United States? Should he make some? Was Chouinard's cliff hanger practical? Should he make a better one? He was constantly questioning, questioning.
From 1967 through 1969, Bill created an industrial dynasty on paper - Doltco, The Dolt Companies, Bill Dolt, and TDH (The Dolt Hut) Manufacturing company. He did it with long hours, 500 square feet of metal shop, a post office box, and a penchant for advertising. He employed a workforce of one, Bill "Dolt" Feuerer and work he did.
Bill once came stumbling into our store on an unusual early morning visit. His blue eyes were beaming despite his obvious exhaustion. He had been working on his ultra light chocks into the late hours of the night and had fallen asleep in the magnesium shavings under his drill press. In he staggered, a walking incendiary, magnesium shavings still clinging to his hair and eye brows. He was attired in his usual Dolt "uniform" black air force dress shoes, burnt through with swage splash, gray Sears Roebuck work clothes; a red kerchief tied about his neck; and perched atop his head, the locomotive
engineer’s cap. His enthusiasm was unquenchable he just had to show us his latest handiwork.
Dolt's enthusiasm was exceeded only by his generosity. He lined the walls of our shop with Dolt photos. He gave us all his prototypes to test. Hennek and I used his original Dolt Cobras (sky hooks), and his only two Twinkle DoIts (head lamps) on our El Cap climbs. He gold plated a couple of Dolt Pegs that Boche and I used on the Nose and presented them to us. He gave the shop the original Dolt Winch from the first attempts on El Capitan. Dolt actually gave me three titanium alloy Dolt Pegs to test and keep for my own. One day he came in with a box under his arm. The box was nicely finished wood. Inside, nestled in red velvet, was his "complete" selection of highly finished Lost Arrow style pins all neatly seated in the velvet. I don't remember the exact number, but there were more than ten. He was offering me this collection in appreciation of West Ridge's help through the years. I paid him around $120 for the box and its contents and put the box on a shelf in my office.
Dolt's vicarious interest in our climbing adventures rekindled the climbing spark in Dolt's soul, and he became a familiar sight bouldering at Stony Point in the year 1969. Bob Kamps once related a story to me attesting to Dolt's incredible strength as a climber. At Stony Point one Sunday afternoon, the beer drinking competitors were happily solving a relatively easy boulder problem. Dolt was among the first to master the route, and when everyone had finally succeeded at it, Dolt picked up a rather large, heavy rock and repeated the route, using only his free hand. Kamps remarked that it was all he could do to lift the rock. No one else could repeat the feat.
On Christmas Eve 1969, Dolt was invited to my home for dinner. He presented us with an old Argosy magazine containing Harding's, and Merry's account the first ascent of El Capitan and an old Dolt Hut catalog, circa 1957. That night he told us tales of early Yosemite and of his childhood. He was an orphan, raised by foster parents. He mentioned his attempts at matrimony that had repeatedly failed. Although Bill exhibited sincerity and generosity, he still managed to remain somewhat aloof, possibly a little paranoid.
Through the year 1970, Dolt was not seen nor heard from at the shop. I suspected that he may have been inadvertently slighted. I tried writing him with no response. Finally in the spring of 1971, Dolt and began making his regular visits to the store.
Bill had been having difficulties all through the year 1970 in deciding whether to remain an employee of McDonnell Douglas or to quit and give The Dolt Company his complete attention. Later that year, he told me he wanted to buy back his pin collection to use for advertising photos. I told him that he could use them as long as he wished for that purpose, but that a deal is a deal, I would not sell them. He was comfortable with that and took them.
On December 6, 1971, while delivering some Dolt Rope, Bill mentioned that he was definitely leaving McDonnell Douglas after 10 years to go into Doltco on a full time basis. He was asking my opinion. A great idea I was sure he could do it. He was elated by the encouragement.
One week later, Bill telephoned, his voice quavering, "I'm thinking of selling most of my interests in Doltco, are you interested?"
"But Bill, I thought..."
“I changed my mind, Douglas has offered me such a good deal I can't let them down." He sounded unconvinced and subdued.
"Okay, Dolt, I'll buy whatever you're selling." I really didn't believe he would do it.
"I'll call you later to arrange a meeting," he replied weakly.
On Christmas Eve 1971, the telephone rang at the shop in the midst of a Christmas party.
"Hello, Don?", Dolt asked in a hushed tone.
"Yeah, Bill, what's up?"
"I just called to wish you a Merry Christmas", Dolt answered, his voice almost a whisper.
"Merry Christmas to you too, Bill."
He didn't answer.
"Bill, what's with the deal we were talking about a couple of weeks ago?" I was searching for a subject that might break his silence.
"Oh, I'm not sure what I'm going to do", he replied slowly. I had never heard him sound so depressed. He continued, "I just called to wish you and yours a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year."
"Well, thanks, Bill. Same to you", I replied awkwardly.
"Thank you, Don. Goodbye."
As far as I know those were the, last words William Andrew Feuerer ever uttered.
One week later, the police were summoned to Dolt's apartment by Ken McNutt who had noticed the week's accumulation of newspapers on Dolt's porch and found his door chained from the inside. Dolt was found hanging from a water pipe on his back porch. He left no note, no will ... nothing. His funeral, paid for by his veteran's insurance, was attended by fourteen people, only six of whom were from his climbing world. The priest in attendance knew only two things about Bill Feuerer his name, and how he died.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Nov 20, 2008 - 11:08pm PT
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My parents knew Bill Feuerer from the UCLA Mountaineering Club. I still have a handfull of Dolt nuts and will save them always.
Don, please continue with your archive of stories.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 20, 2008 - 11:33pm PT
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Don, please keep posting.
Dolt sort of reminds me of Yabo….
We all loved him
I wish he would have let me help him, somehow.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Nov 20, 2008 - 11:34pm PT
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Don,
thank you for posting these incredible stories.
My father worked at McDonnell-Douglas with Bill(AKA Dolt) and had a funny story or two which have, unfortunately, been long since forgotten.
Bruce
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 20, 2008 - 11:40pm PT
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Nice posts Don.
I have a vivid memory of you recounting your last Christmas conversation with Bill and how sad you were, your sense of loss and helplessness was so palpable. I never met Bill, but I used some of his stuff and it had a special feel and function. I used his long LA pin for cleaning nuts and his plastic hammer holster shown here.
And his hangers,
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 20, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
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A Dolt Piton - a real beauty...! (Dialup warning - pics):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=468503
Kevin Worrall's Dolt piton which I extracted while replacing bolts on Space Babble:
Here is a chrome moly Dolt hanger on Quicksilver/Freewheelin', before it was replaced this summer by Roger:
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dipper
climber
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Nov 21, 2008 - 12:23am PT
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Don,
If I send you a meal once a week, some coffee and whatever drink you prefer, will you keep writing these stories forever?
This is it man. This is what we need more of around here.
Thanks.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 21, 2008 - 12:49am PT
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Wow, Don that was sad ......
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Nov 21, 2008 - 01:48am PT
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Don, that is an amazing anthology illustrating the strengths and liabilities of the creatively inflamed soul. Thanks so much. As one who recently lost a close friend and splendid human being to suicide by hanging, I sympathize with your experience which I expect might still be painful after all these years.
I purchased a Dolt holster and a single shiny blade from you at the West Ridge in '69 when I was just fourteen. The pin was so expensive and I forced myself to use it only after several years which I have regretted ever since because it just seemed to me to be a work of art. I was right. I used the holster long after the piton era with my claw hammer building my house, among other projects. It finally broke in extreme cold after a couple of decades.
As we come into the holiday season, your story is a strong reminder for all to recognize the seriousness of depression in ourselves, friends and family. Here's to the honorable memory of this gifted though complex personality. -Bruce Adams
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2008 - 03:13am PT
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Remember the reference to Dolt's feat at Stoney Point - climbing a route with a rock in his hand that no one else could repeat?
Well, Bonnie Kamps just emailed me a photo. Here it is.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 21, 2008 - 03:26am PT
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Wow, tell the cool story, and then the photo surfaces!!
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Nov 21, 2008 - 04:36am PT
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That route at Stoney Point is way harder with the rock in your left hand(not counting the sit start, but that's pretty obvious).
Bruce
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 21, 2008 - 10:33am PT
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wonderful and poignant history, thanks for posting these recollections, they are treasures
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Nov 21, 2008 - 01:27pm PT
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Great anthology of stories. But let's get this much straight: the first pieces are actualluy writing samples. It is your work, Don, that introduces narrative art to the exercise. You have a very natural tone and diction that reminds me a little of Pratt at his best. I encourage you - for very selfish reasons (I love to read this stuff) - to keep writing these stores till you have enough for a book.
The Dolt piece reads like Borges' early stuff. Terrific. And very sad without being sentimental. Difficult to do, as was the hidden and silent life Dolt apparently led.
JL
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Nov 21, 2008 - 01:28pm PT
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I am the proud owner of a single dolt pin, a Dolt bashie and a Dolt holster. For now, all can lay my hands on is the pin. Like others, I used this a couple of times and then thought better. It was a masterpiece of design and deserved to be preserved. It's a tad rusty but still a thing of beauty.
]
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Nov 21, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
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Don, Thank you for this post (and others) and your poignant prose. You honor Bill with a wonderful portrait of a talented and intense person. It is coming up on two years since losing one of my best friends to suicide; he was also a vibrant, talented and intense climber. Your words about the depth of your friendship becoming apparant as a result of this tragedy ring true.
Keep writing these stories. They are small treasures.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 21, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
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Amazing stories, Don.
Thanks for your posts.
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knieveltech
Social climber
Raleigh NC
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Nov 21, 2008 - 02:48pm PT
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I procured a single dolt hex in a batch of old climbing gear. At the time I didn't know what I had but something about the quality of the piece caught my eye. Having some of the back story about it's creator is fantastic. Please, if you have more to post on the subject by all means do so. This is incredible stuff.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Nov 21, 2008 - 06:47pm PT
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This is such a cool thread.
love those pic's
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Hardly Visible
climber
Port Angeles
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Nov 21, 2008 - 07:27pm PT
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Don,
The stories you have shared with us over the last few weeks have been some of the most entertaining climbing literature that I’ve had the pleasure to read.
Thank you so much,
KR
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Nov 21, 2008 - 07:28pm PT
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Thanks everyone for the wonderful stories. Very sad, very very great. very powerful
the inability to feel loved
man
Think of the balls to go up on
El Cap in the late 50's
Warbler I unclipped that Quicksilver bolt. The test we had of a really good 5.10 climber was if you could lead Quicksilver- i never did.
murf
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Nov 21, 2008 - 09:38pm PT
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Is it true that Dolt acquired his name from taking a 20 footer stepping into an etrier clipped to his waist?
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2008 - 10:22pm PT
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Eric,
Almost as bad as climbing the Leaning Tower with out ever being clipped into your Jumars.
That Dolt myth is still a myth until someone confirms it.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
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Eric,
I thought of another thing almost as bad: TM Herbert and his swami belt of 1-inch tubular, enough for twelve wraps around his svelte waist, with a piece of masking tape at center length.
It seems when he rolled it off the reel at West Ridge, he didn't realize that the tape was a splice. He climbed with this swami for half a season before someone noticed and informed him that he had purchased two pieces of nylon with nothing more than paper tape holding them together.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2008 - 12:11am PT
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Well, you've probably got the correct version, but it doesn't change the moral.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 22, 2008 - 02:26am PT
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Don
Thank you for an insightful glance into the early 60’s climbing scene in southern California, its influence on Yosemite and the contribution of Bill Feuerer, aka Dolt.
Why is it so many people are history before they are recognized as genius?
You are fortunate to be one, of very few that were a confidant of Dolt.
Powell, Kamps, Chouniard, Rearick, TM, Harry Daly and many others epitomized this era in southern California that contributed so much to the development of climbing in this country.
For a bit of nostalgia, I have enclosed one of my early dream catalogs: The 1960 Dolt Catalog.
Remember, this was when gas was 24 cents a gallon, wine was $1.19 a gallon, Viet Nam was in the future, and for a kid of 14 spending more than $1.00 on a piton was a big deal!
Enjoy
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 22, 2008 - 04:07am PT
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Wow, Joe - thanks for sharing that classic catalog!
I've never seen that before.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Nov 22, 2008 - 11:30am PT
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How great to still have the circles items on the catalog
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Nov 22, 2008 - 11:41am PT
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I always wondered what was going on before my generation hit the crags running. Now I can see what the pioneers were up to.
JL
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 22, 2008 - 11:55am PT
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I'd like to thank all of you who are spending the time to ensure that future generations have access to your knowledge. Soon, all of us will be gone as well, yet our words will still remain. This thread and a few others like it have been some of THE very best things put on this site in a long while. I wish Chris Mac would put them in a separate locations so as to make them easy to access, for I fear they will soon meld into tomorrows next political debate and be difficult to find.
Regards
Bill
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2008 - 12:34pm PT
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Little Joe,
Where are you going to hide all this stuff when you leave for NZ?
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Nov 22, 2008 - 01:21pm PT
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That catalog ranks very, very high on the list of coolest things ever displayed on this site.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Nov 28, 2008 - 11:15pm PT
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Bravo of a thread!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 28, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
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Sweet catalog Joe! Thanks for posting it.
One of the best tidbits from the Nose Reunion was the naming of Dolt Hole in honor of his sneaking a piss there to the displeasure of Mark and Warren. Too damn funny!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 28, 2008 - 11:48pm PT
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hey there don... say, i just cut in here from the newest post, and back-tracked some... say, i just read the MASKING TAPE swamie belt story... oh my :O
whewwwwwwwwwwwwwwww... truth strangaer than fiction type stuff... man, oh, man...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 29, 2008 - 12:08am PT
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hey there don... say, i am very sorry to hear this story of the loss of your friend... very sad...
he must have thought a lot of you, to have called you...
thank you so very kind for sharing, or, i would not ever have known of this special man...
i'll put this bit of quote from one of the post of yours, done by another man:
"The name William Feuerer was known in the Yosemite and southern California climbing communities, but the "Dolt" was known to the entire climbing world. Bill "Dolt" Feuerer's identity as designer and manufacturer of the ultimate in technical climbing hardware overshadowed his considerable reputation as a Yosemite and California technical climbing pioneer. "
thank you for teaching me this... and thank you for bearing your heart, concerning a dear friend... i wish his life had not ended so sadly--but the wishing, is, more sadly, too late...
god bless, and uphold you...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 30, 2008 - 11:58am PT
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I just reread Mark's piece and perhaps it was a proud and righteous piss! "I have just become the first man on the face of this earth to piss in Dolt Hole!" The rising of the territorial Dolt! LOL
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BBA
Social climber
West Linn OR
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Jun 14, 2009 - 12:51pm PT
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In October 1958 I started climbing. After a fall and winter at Stoney Point, I needed equipment for roped climbs at Tahquitz. I'd met the Dolt at Stoney Point and wondered why he liked his nickname. Seemed odd and not respectful, so I called him Bill and he called me Amborn. In any case, he was a nice guy, quiet and thoughtful.
Being at UCLA and a poor student in more ways than one, I could walk down to Sawtelle Blvd to the Dolt Hut and chat with Bill and buy a piton or two as that was all my budget would allow. Guido's 1960 catalog had a lot more items than I recall being in stock. For example, Chouinard had not yet gotten Alcoa Aluminum to cast his style of carabiners when I first visited the Dolt Hut. I kept the Dolt Hut catalog from 1958 and later my Mom saw the front picture being of Kat Pinnacle (named after her father), and she copied the front page and so it was saved. She covered up Mark Powell's name (sorry Mark). I tossed or lost the full catalog long ago.
Bill spoke slowly and something he said made an impression on me due to its existential cast, so I put it in my 1956 Climber's Guide to Tahquitz Rock at the time, about when I was ready to leave UCLA for UC Berkeley. It has a touch of irony, considering Bill's death.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Jun 17, 2009 - 11:18am PT
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I'm not sure why, but I never met Dolt, only heard many references to him over the years. Thank you for so vividly acquainting me with him.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 26, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
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BBA
I have the 1958 Dolt Catalog on my computer from when we scanned everything last summer but can't seem to get it loaded for some odd reason. Will work on that as it is way cool.
cheers
Joe
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Jun 26, 2009 - 08:46pm PT
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The cover illustration to the Tahquitz guide...
Isn't that from a piece in Belaying the Leader?
Something like the Smiley Company, who made rubber pitons?
(EZ in, EZ out)
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Jun 27, 2009 - 12:02am PT
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Bump for an incredible thread!
:)AF
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 27, 2009 - 01:05am PT
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A couple of Dolt photos from the Wilts guide to Tahquitz.
Anyone recognize the climber in the stylish hat and sneakers?
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T Moses
Big Wall climber
Paso Robles
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Thanks for posting all the great stories. He seemed to be a true pioneer and craftsman. Like many of the shining lights, he seemed to have burned bright and fast, leaving us too early. Those are some big footsteps to follow in.
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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Don Lauria,
I love all your posts here,
your candor, humor and insights are
really appreciated.
Thank you sir.
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Don
Knew and got these from Dolt a few years back. These were downdoaded last year on previous site.
Would like your comments on the production of these babies and I recall back then at his shop we talked about Viet Nam and he was quite upset about a couple of things.
Would like to know if he discussed or talked about it with you.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Man, that is one beautiful set of Dolt nuggets!!! Thanks for posting it again. Did you buy anything else from him?
Guido- Thanks for posting that superb catalog. Amazing resource on so many fronts. It is the best snapshot of what YC was putting out before Tom Frost entered the picture and began designing the dies that revolutionized piton production.
Tom was a close friend of the Dolt's and best man at Bill's wedding. Unfortunately, when Tom began working with YC the Dolt felt deeply betrayed and he never really recovered from the blow. YC had the business sense that the Dolt lacked, so the success of Chouinard Equipment was something that he took personally and to the grave. He was a brilliant designer and Tom was really his only peer.
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Steve,
Kept the long pin never used it, prefect condition, have other pins put them away but use the Key hold hangers once in awhile when needed.
When I was at school and living in the area and would visit the Hut or his shop Bill felt that his ideas were being copied, Looking back those years UK, EU [Eiger], CY were all working on the same premise. Who really copied who or whom.
Spider nuts had to be his.
As for the colouring or Iodized had to be his idea as well. My thinking, I could be wrong since he was working for Aircraft Co., some had to come there.
One thing to note is holes are at the end, a couple of months or a year later CY came up with them inside to take advantage of the design to work more efficient? Dolt came out with his. Who was at first or was it EU.
????????????????????????????????
Any thoughts
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Sorry CY should have read YC for Chouinard.
Hey, Haven't had anything to drink yet.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Wow, what a thread! I, too, never met Dolt, but my Doltster is still one of my prized possessions.
John
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The set of nuts that you have are a classic case in point as to why the Dolt had trouble in the marketplace. Those two designs were intended to be threaded on full length runners carried over the shoulder as was common practice long before any sort of quickdraw came into use. As pearls on a string, each runner would have a couple of nuggets that could be jammed as chocks.
The Dolt simply didn't have any market driven ability to self edit based on practicality. Of the 22 nuts shown, four or five of the cylindrical knurled ones would have been plenty to cover the entire practical size range that you would need. Bill was too obsessive to see that. He labored over the many possible variations and produced beautiful nuggets that the market just wouldn't support. YC and Tom sold two shapes in 1972, Stoppers and Hexentrics in an appropriate range of sizes. The Dolt sent to market at least dozen! I am sure that he loved every one of them and fussed endlessly over them to but was hopelessly lost in the aesthetics of it all.
Here is a Dolt ad from Summit in 1968. Eighteen shapes!
Thanks to Stephane (nutstory) this is what most of them looked like from ads in Summit from 1969.
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S.Leeper
Sport climber
Austin, Texas
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What a poignant thread. Thank you for giving us a glimpse into a complex life.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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WELCOME TO THE DOLT SHOW!!!
Dolt Spidernuts and Trunuts - Row 1 is uncolored Spidernuts. Spidernuts can also be called Crudnuts and have a knureled outer finish. Row 2 colored Spidernuts. Spidernuts (uncolored) first mention shows photo is Summit mag June 1969 pg 38.
Row 3 is uncolored Trunuts. Row 4-5 is a full set of colored Trunuts. In my searching, 99% of the time I see colored Spidernuts or Trunuts. They are quite common. I do not see very many uncolored ones. It is interesting that the first Trunut mention is Summit mag Oct 68 pg 34. But in Summit mag March 1971 pg 29 Dolt shows and ad announcing "16 Colornuts" which suggest his Trunuts and Spidernuts have gone colored. So Dolt must of sold a lot of these colornuts between March 1971 and Dec 1971(death). The uncolored nuts went from Oct 68 to March 1971 and they are harder to find. Trunuts (uncolored) are shown in photo in Summit mag March 1969 pg 32.
Dolt Bashchocks - Two hole Bashchock or one hole Bashchock. There was no real rhyme or reason to these square chocks as far as numbers went. I believe that Dolt renumbered the size range three times, where at one time there were 14 sizes. First mention is Summit mag Oct 1968 pg 36. Photo shown in Summit mag March 1969 pg 38.
Dolt Kernlchock - (with sling), one size available. First mention Summit mag Oct 1968 pg 38. Photo shown in Summit mag March 1969 pg 36.
Dolt Cornchock - one size - first mention shows photo Summit mag March 1969 pg 36.
Dolt Narrochock - hole through ends with wide taper sides. First mention Summit mag Oct 1968 pg 38. Stamped "N1"
Dolt Hipchock or Nutchock - three sizes shown. First mention Summit mag Oct 1968 pg 38. Not 100% sure on correct name of these nuts.
Dolt Blockchock - far right row three sizes shown. First mention Summit mag Oct 1968 pg 38. I am guessing these are Blockchocks since they are perfectly square on the tops of the nuts.
Dolt Gruvychock- A realy cool nut! One size. First mention photo shown Summit mag March 1969 pg 37. Original owner Don Lauria.
Teechock - First mention Summit mag Oct 1968 pg 38. Photo shown Summit mag March 1969 pg 37. This Teechock has angle to cord side where Summit mag shows straight across design. Original owner TM Herbert.
Dolt Saddlechocks C - Cable version first mention shows photo Summit mag March 1969 pg 36.
Dolt Saddlechocks - First mention Summit mag Nov 1967 pg 34. Photo shown Summit mag March 1969 pg 37. Please note: the cord on the large #12 Saddlewedge is tied with two opposing hangman noose knots. First time I have ever seen this knot used this way.
Doltbit - two hole Doltbit - First mention Summit mag Nov 1967 pg 34. Photo show Summit mag Jan/Feb 1969 pg 27.
Doltjack - I love this piece! Original owner Jim Bridwell. First mention Summit mag May 1967 pg 28. Photo shown Summit mag Jan/Feb 1969 pg 27. Photo also shown in 1967 dolt catalog.
Dolt Backpackers Sewing Awl - With instructions! First mention Summit mag Nov 1967 pg 36. Photo shown Summit mag May 1969 pg 40. Original owner Tom Taber.
Dolt Ballpoint Pen - How many of these do you think still exist? Original owner Don Lauria. Thanks Don, I love this pen, and it still writes. True sign of Dolt. Circa sometime 1966 to 1971.
Dolt Patches - Left patch is original Dolt. First mention shows photo Summit mag July/August 1969 pg 36. Right patch is new Dolt circa sometime after 1971.
Dolthangers - Top left angle hanger was not mass produced. Possibly a prototype. Middle top hanger is the only hanger I have ever seen that was designed to be stepped on. Dolt put a tip on the top edge to catch the rubber of your climbing boot. Circa 1960. Top row right hanger is Dolts 1960 top seller. First mention shows photo Dolt 1960 catalog. Bottom row left is that old beer can tab style hanger. Model 1/4 H. First mention Summit mag May 1967 pg 28. Photo shown in Dolt 1967 catalog. Bottom center left hanger is Model 3/8 HK keyhole hanger. First mention Summit mag May 1967 pg 28. Photo shown 1967 Dolt catalog. Also photo shown Summit mag Oct 1968 pg 34. Bottom row center right is Dolthanger model 1/4V which is chrome plated. Bridwell said this hanger was a rare piece one of a kind. First mention Summit mag May 1967 pg 28. Photo shown in 1967 Dolt catalog but not chromed. Looks somewhat like the hanger SMC created in 1974....hmmm. Bottom row right is original 1957 DOLDT hanger. Dolt stamped all of his personal gear DOLDT in 1957 and became Dolt in 1958. This hanger is an original ladder bolt hanger from Texas Flake to Boot Flake from the FA ascent of the Nose route in Yosemite. This hanger is seen in a photo from the book "Vertical World of Yosemite", Galen Rowell, pg 45 (bottom of gear photo).
Top piton is a gift from Dolt to Jim Bridwell late 1959. Super heavy prototype welded angle. It looks like it was beaten to hell but yet there is not a dent on it! Jim told me that he hated draging this piece up the walls, but yet it was indestructable.
Nutcracker - Titanium nut tool (the non-piton). Only 12 of these were produced. Length 7 1/2" . Original owner Don Lauria.
Nutcracker - CrMo steel nut tool (the Non-piton). Original owner Jay Fiske to Eric Kohl.
Doltpeg - The original baby!!! Stardolt 5 supersteel!!! First mentioned Summit mag May 1967 pg 28. Photo shown Summit mag Nov 1968 pg 26. Photo also shown in Dolt 1967 catalog.
Doltpeg blank - unforged Dolt blank. Original owner Don Lauria.
Dolt Littlepeg front - Littlepeg piton made of bronze and still has mfg tags attached. Yellow tag has Bill Dolt signature in ball point pen, blue tag has mfg logo stamp. Both tags are tied to the Littlepeg piton. Can you imagine if he put these tags on all of the products he created, and signed every one of them.....wow! First mention Summit mag June 1969 pg 44. Photo Summit mag July/August 1969 pg 43.
Dolt Littlepeg back - Yellow tag shows item stamp, blue tag shows three patent numbers.
Doltseat - of course it was created with Dolt-tex fabric. First mention Summit mag July/Aug 1969 pg 69.
Doltsling - first mention Summit mag Nov 1967 pg 34. Has a sewn on small Dolt logo tag.
Pulleydolt - Two styles. Pulleydolt no. 2 and no. 1SL.
first mention shows photos Oct 1968 pg 34.
I still have many more items but presently they are in display cases at the gym. Dolt chalkbag, posters, Ringdolt rap ring, different color Doltster Hammer holsters, Doltrope, catalogs, pins, more Doltjacks, a few more hangers, and other of Dolt's personal items.
William Dolt Feurer was a really amazing character! He had this need to create something special for every climber out there. First noted mfg to create nuts in the USA! First annodized (colored) nuts created in the world?
Rock on! Marty
Karabin Climbing Museum
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sweet Dolt dump, Marty! Did you notice that the Gruvy Chock in your collection is different from the one in the ad upthread. I have one like yours and I carried it on my rack for years! I was surprised that he didn't go off parallel to allow a third placement attitude. Is your Dolt rope fuscia colored?
Ever lay your hands on one of his gold plated pitons?
Somebody must have bought one! LOL From Summit 1968. I wonder if Fetish was Bill's middle name?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
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Steve, is the woman in the photo you posted about ten back Ellen Wilts?
Awesome Dolt photos!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Anders- I can't identify her based on anything familiar.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Marty: Thanks for posting up your photos of Dolt Gear. When I saw the "Littlepeg"-----the memory kicked in.
I bought one back in 71 or 72 with the thought: "might give it to my girlfriend."
I've hung onto it all these years and I had memories that it was a Dolt item, but it is unmarked.
So------since you did not show size of yours: here's mine! Just over 1" long and yes, I am very proud of it.
Marty: how long is yours?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Very nice ,Fritz! I wonder if it was actually intended for use or purely sculptural jewelry! Anything stamped on the back where there is a little space or is the pin its own logo dimensionally? LOL
The funny thing is that it isn't even the smallest piton that he ever sold by a long shot!
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Fantastic thread. I recall seeing a Dolt ad, fall of 1967 in Summit advertising a gold-plated piton. Maybe in 1968 he had some left from the previous year?
Hard to imagine anyone buying such a thing.
Like buying a gold-plated Alien, perhaps even the yellow one.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Steve: They were definitely sold as something non-functional. Maybe jewelry, perhaps art is a better catch-all category.
Under 7X magnification, absolutely no markings.
I think I bought it in a long-gone shop named Snug Mountaineering in Ketchum, Idaho.
We are getting into old memories here, but I think there were also silver versions of the same item in Snug. I was too cheap to buy the silver one.
I do remember telling a slightly later girlfriend about how I regretted not buying the cool silver piton: because she had one made for me as a Christmas present. That one is closer in size to a Chouinard Lost Arrow----------and still cherished.
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old toad
Trad climber
yosemite, Ca.
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Bump for a real climbing thread, unlike most of the crap posted on this site.
Ron
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Don,
I must of missed this post when it first came around.
What great and thoughtful rock climbing history!
Two thoughts come quickly to mind:
First, thanks for opening a flood gate of memories from those wonderful times.
And, second how precious and important are my "crazy" friends of today.
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Nov 11, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
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Wow! Marty, you have been promising me for a long time that I would get to see all those pieces! I never guessed How many you really had! After bidding close to a hundred dollars for just one nut, I am blown away at what your detailed collection must be worth!
As Marty Jr., I have a long way to go to have a more grand collecetion, but because of his collection I now have close to 500 pieces of my own!
Go gear heads!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 26, 2009 - 05:05pm PT
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Yet another Dolt Bump, on a wire.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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I thought you all might enjoy this.
Ken
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jim Bridwells Dolt Jacks. Used heavily but still look new.
LONGware Jacks? Tacks? Rurps? What did LONGware call their bits?
Rope from Gerry Mtn Sports c-1948. Donated by Wally Vegors
Plymoth Nylon 7/16 rope c-1959. Purchased from Dolt in Tahquitz, CA.
Donated by William Straka
Rock on!
Marty
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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I've had this poster since '68. It was a present from one of my dad's climbing buddies.
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2008 - 12:13am PT
"Remember the reference to Dolt's feat at Stoney Point - climbing a route with a rock in his hand that no one else could repeat?"
I guess Dolt was the Org. Stonemaster?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Any one ever climb in the blue Dolt shoes?
Ken
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Here's another Dolt poster
Rock on!
Marty
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Mr. Vader
Boulder climber
L.A., CA
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Don:
Thanks for the stories. Keep them coming. Wonderful memories. Here's a handful of Dolt hangers I got from Westridge. Recently unearthed in my garage. Never used. Still have my Westridge Sierra Cups. See you in LP for WW Marathon?
Don Feinstein
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Hot Dam -this thread just popped up and I finally found my scans of the 1958 Dolt Catalog that have been hiding in my computer the past two years!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Mr. Vader (Don),
Cool Dolt stuff!!! Is there any way that you can shoot us a few closer up photos on whats on both sides of the Dolt tags that are attached to the Dolt hangers?
Marty (Huge Dolt fan!)
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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May 14, 2010 - 09:43pm PT
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Great read!
I had several Dolt products, but remember the hammer holster most vividly. It worked great on walls etc., but was not meant for squeeze chimneys.
Guido, didn't you do a FFA in the Valley with the 'Dolt' in the early 60's?
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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May 14, 2010 - 10:58pm PT
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wow I missed this entirely. Holy Smokes how cool is this? Thanks to everyone contributing!!!
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skrzyp
Trad climber
CA
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May 14, 2010 - 11:15pm PT
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As a high school kid in the late sixties I worked in a sports store in Connecticut called the Ski Hut and struck up a correspondence with Bill, mainly about gear for the store.
I arranged to stop by his business on a graduation trip out West in the Summer of 1971. Hitched to LA from Yosemite with my best friend, and we showed up at the Dolt "factory" on a weekday afternoon in July, somewhere in the warehouse district of Santa Monica. We spent an hour or so chatting, and looking at his gear and listening to him describe some of his production methods and new offerings. He was a very softspoken and interesting character. The picture is a scan from a photograph taken that day.
I was really sad when I learned about his suicide.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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May 15, 2010 - 03:12am PT
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skrzyp, thank you very much for sharing this nice story and this splendid photograph with us!
Stephane / Nuts Museum
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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May 15, 2010 - 10:18am PT
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Just re-read this. That is a great piece of writing-it certainly conveyed the loss of hope that Dolt had. Makes you wonder how things get desperate for us sometimes.
Keep writing Don
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 15, 2010 - 10:27am PT
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super cool thread!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 15, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
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sk............great photo!
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 16, 2010 - 12:22am PT
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Thank you Bonnie, that is one of the most amazing,historic photos!!
For the times, he was pretty ripped, seems to be in really good shape.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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May 16, 2010 - 12:36am PT
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Anybody remember this?
Ken
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BBA
climber
OF
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May 16, 2010 - 11:36am PT
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The Dolt on Mt. Starr King...
It looks like Bill was feeling good here, "The Dolt strikes again". He was climbing solo, not associated with the other group on the same day (I contacted Grundke). Within seven months after this climb he was gone.
I had a Dolt holster as well as a Dolt hammer. The holster was really nice but has been lost. Still have the hammer.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 12, 2010 - 11:17am PT
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Nice bit of history, Bill.
Any chance that you could post a shot of your hammer?
More Dolt gear from the July/August 1969 Summit.
I really wish that I had bought the exquisite fuscia colored Dolt rope that hung around the Summit Hut in Tucson. As per usual, not the most functional choice but, damn it sure was purdy lookin'.
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scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
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Jun 14, 2010 - 04:37pm PT
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I had forgotten how pretty those welded angles were.
I don't remember if this has been answered before:
were the Blue Boots the same as Gaulies?
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Here is a recent addition to my Dolt Collection pictured below:This T-Chock was found in a cabin stash in Alaska. It has only seen minor use, and looks brand new. Amazing how well Dolt's stuff seems to outlast most everything else. Looking back upthread at the add that shows this piece makes me wonder how many variations there are. This one is slightly tapered as opposed to the intense cut that Marty's shows and the straight edge shown in the advertisements. Does anyone else out there have one of these? What is the story?
-Rockjockrob
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Very nice score! I was following that auction too...
Thanks for posting up your collection! Dolt was an obsessive design tweaker so several distinct versions of his complex shapes are likely.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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the blue boot looks ahead of its time, and the pitons are sheer elegance.
we have another prominent climber suicide currently in jeff batten, and i get a bit boggled by these things since my grandpa committed suicide by hanging when i was about 10 years old. i couldn't understand why that kindly, playful, apparently wise old fellow would have done such a thing, and have ever since been returning to the mystery, finding deeper truths in the shadow he cast into the future. my grandpa chose an easter sunday morning, and here the famous "dolt" did the same on christmas--times when most of the known world is intensely into spiritual celebration, not surprising that those feeling left behind should decide to leave the whole world behind.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 10, 2010 - 11:12pm PT
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Rockjockrob, Sweet photo of the Dolt stuff! You outbid me on the Teechock, but I scored the blue/orange-K Dolt Hammer holster.
I like the green So-Ill banner that is under the glass in your display. Those So-Ill guys totally rock! You also are showing a used bong from Jim Bridwell.........Coolness!
Have fun collecting!
Rock on! Marty
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Aug 11, 2010 - 07:59pm PT
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I vaguely remember a holster being up for auction, but I missed that it was Dolt!
It is a Bridwell Bong! and the SoIll Guys, well they are top notch. I would not be surprised to find threads like this for their grips in ten years. SoIll Stories... Hmmm.?
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BBA
climber
OF
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Aug 11, 2010 - 10:39pm PT
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I got the hammer and holster before I became known as BBA, so I carved my true initials, WA, into the hammer handle in a clever logo as one can see. If one looks closely at the left side of the handle wood, one can see two slight indentations. The handle split and after glue I put screws in to hold it together. The indentations are where the screws are located. Sweet hammer.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 12, 2010 - 11:37am PT
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Now that is a well worn hammer! Thanks for posting the photo, Bill.
Would you mind measuring the overall length of your Dolt hammer? It looks to have a handle that is longer than a Chouinard hammer.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 12, 2010 - 11:42am PT
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BBA
Why am I reminded of an Egyptian mummy?
WA-must be the real William Amborn.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 12, 2010 - 11:43am PT
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And what's with the beautiful sketch behind the hammer?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 12, 2010 - 07:36pm PT
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BBA aka WA, The hammer you show is shown in the 1958 Dolt catalog but I do not believe that Dolt created this hammer. He only sold it. All of the Dolt items in the catalogs that are Dolt made are listed as Dolt. This hammer he wrote "This is a hammer made for rock climbers." It is available in 16 ounce or 20 ounce weight. In 1958-1960 Dolt distributed/retailed a lot of other manufacturers stuff. I believe the hammer you show was mfgd in Europe. The Dolt hammers from 1967 models 22M, 22R, 17M, 17R are one piece made of steel with a rubber handle grip. I have yet to see a Dolt created hammer that has a wood handle. Maybe somebody out there has evidence that Dolt manufactured hammers pre 1966?
Your hammer still has value for sure! Dolt however received the hammers then personally wrapped shiny black tape on the wood handle just under the hammer head so the head did not come loose. I wonder if that tape is still present on your hammer? Your hammer handle looks original.
Rock on! Marty
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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Aug 12, 2010 - 10:12pm PT
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This is an excellent thread.
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BBA
climber
OF
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Aug 12, 2010 - 10:28pm PT
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I merely scanned the hammer on my HP G3110 flatbed. I don't know why the one area shows red, unless it is the eye of the devil which often shows out in technological products. The hammer is 10 5/8" (10.625) stem to stern. It could be a little longer, like 10.666 inches if you count the nubs at the end.
In the spirit of science I started to take off the black tape to see how things looked under there, but it has become a fused mass, rather like 70 year old cabling in underfloor conduits I have encountered.
The hammer does have value. I still use it to beat the crap out of anything needing it in my yard, rocks, concrete, ...
WAmborn
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 12, 2010 - 10:37pm PT
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BBA, The hammer you have is a beautiful piece! Thank you so much for showing it to us. If you ever have an itch to get rid of it, I know this Dolt addict in Arizona that is looking for one. It's cool that you remembered that your hammer did not have the tape on it when you first purchased it.
Do you know what year you purchased the hammer?
Rock on! Marty
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 12, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
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Since we have some Longware in here, maybe it is good time to see a shot of Dr Long and Steck at the Nose Reunion. Two of my heroes as a kid growing up in Berkeley.
Along with Roper these old boys made the 3rd ascent of the Salathe.
I always thought Dick Long was the most natural and talented climber I had ever seen.
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BBA
climber
OF
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Aug 13, 2010 - 07:23pm PT
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I took some time and removed the tape. It was what I call exacto-ing work. And I apologize for erring in not remembering the original tape on the handle. In the layers of tape I removed, there were two types. When you look at the scan you can see where the lighter wood near the hammer head is, and that had some really old tape. That wood is mostly unscarred except near the head where I missed pitons and it crunched the metal into the wood. On top of the old tape was my meta bundle of tape, and you can see the lines where it ended down the handle a bit. This fits into what pictures by others in the thread have said was the way the Dolt taped the handle.
I saved samples of the two tapes, but really don't want to put them on the glass of my scanner.
OK, so there are four pictures, the last one being a close up of the side of the hammer head. It is hard to read, but it has to be "HOLUBAR". The only letter that is missing entirely is the "H".
The other question is, when did I buy the hammer? I started climbing in October 1958, and did my first route at Tahquitz on March 28, 1959 according to a pen and ink entry in my old guidebook. I therefore purchased the hammer between those dates, most likely in December 1959 as I went on a desert trip in early January of 1959.
So, my fortune is assured! What am I bid for this priceless treasure!
Bill Amborn
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 15, 2010 - 05:52pm PT
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Bill,
Is that O in HOLUBAR struck with a double outline to look like a carabiner or something?
I wonder who forged the head? Holubar definitely sold cromoly sheet ringless angles so they shifted towards hard steel products for a short while before abandoning hardware sales entirely.
What did you climb or attempt on your desert trip?
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BBA
climber
OF
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Aug 15, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
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Steve - I was of two minds on that "O", either what you said or the happenstance of random marks plus a straight line of the "H" before and of the "L" after making the "O" look special. The head was stamped on both sides, but it didn't help me. I took a strong light to the face along with a magnifying glass, but nothing for sure came out. So I need stronger light or magnification or eyes or all three.
OK, I just made a rubbing of it on one side and it shows out better. For my eyes it only says HOLUBAR, the "O" is nothing special. Blow it up and you'll see. If you want an e-mail with the original scan of the rubbing, let me know.
I believe the winter trip from UCLA included the Chiricahuas, Cochise Stronghold and ended up at Monument Peak, the first ascent of which is also in that 1940 Sierra Club Bulletin I sent to you. And, by the way, your scan and post of the Shiprock first ascent was very nicely done. The original write up added to the thread - especially the art work.
Bill Amborn
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 15, 2010 - 07:49pm PT
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Thanks for the detective work! HOLUBAR plain and simple.
Did you guys climb anything in the Chiricahuas or Cochise Stronghold?
The Shiprock article is superb. Thanks again!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 15, 2010 - 09:47pm PT
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Is there a remote chance Stubai made the hammers for Holubar?
In the late 50s and early 60s I think the only "stores" where we could purchase climbing gear were: The Ski Hut, Gerry, Holubar and the orig REI at 523 Pike St Seattle. I purchased a great deal of gear via Sporthaus Shuster in Munich.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 15, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
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That is exactly the sort of source connections I would love to sort out!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 15, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
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What the hell are we doing sitting home on a beautiful Sun night " messing about" on ST?
We could be at the pub, in church, or even out climbing. I did spend the afternoon with my daughter, better than all the above combined.
cheers
Guido
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 15, 2010 - 11:51pm PT
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I spent a little time restoring the mirror finish on one of Ken Boche's Cobra hooks. Almost there...
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BooDawg
Social climber
On the Road, Pacific Slope
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Aug 15, 2010 - 11:59pm PT
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I'm with Guido; I spent the last 2 weeks with my daughter searching for the right college, and it was one of the best connections I've had with her.
Steve, I'm SO PLEASED to see you haven't been idle since our meeting and hand-off on Thursday night. Can't wait to see what you do with the DoltPeg that came with the Cobra!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 17, 2010 - 01:38am PT
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No long wait required!
Ken Boche's early run Dolt piton.
Ken's long thick horizontal below my later run Doltpin from the early seventies.
As Ken pointed out the delicate anvil on the piton would lead to an eye strike with any glancing blow so Dolt widened it considerably while still retaining the characteristic D eyeshape.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Aug 17, 2010 - 11:32am PT
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I posted these photos in the "Help with Vintage Pitons" thread. I think they belong here as well.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 17, 2010 - 11:45am PT
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Love the "DOLT-TEX" on the belay seat label!
Ken- Based on the level of finish on your Doltpin I assume that it originally had a dark, hot oil finish much like mine rather than a bright polish. The rails are very smooth but the rest has lots of hand in it!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 18, 2010 - 12:46am PT
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Steve, I am totally jealous that you are actually touching a Dolt Cobra Hook.........Dog!
And BooDawg I totally Boo you for not returning my emails.....Hamster! I still would love to have a closer photo and measurements of the Dolt nut tool holder............
by chance did you save me a Dolt hanger?
Fine!...you guys swim in your dolt and see if I care........tear......tear.....
Rock on, Marty
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 18, 2010 - 01:07am PT
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Steve,
With most antiques removing the patina is a definite no-no!
That's why I rarely shower.
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BooDawg
Social climber
On the Road, Pacific Slope
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Aug 18, 2010 - 02:01am PT
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Marty, I apologize for not returning your 2 emails; they caught me when I was in the middle of a very intense planning period, trying to put together the elements of this 5 week trip of which I am now in middle.
Since you have called me out in public, let me respond: The tone of your emails were completely about why I should provide you with your wish list. There was little in them about service to the greater community.
"I have a huge Dolt collection..."
"I am looking for a few pieces:
Dolt nut tool holder - I have 106 different nut tools.
Dolt Cobra Hook - I have 206 different hooks.
Dolt Bolt hanger diagonal bend dark (you have two the same) I have over 1200 different bolt hangers.
Dolt short piton - I have over 500 pitons from the 1930s and up.
As far as Dolt items I have over 120 and hope to create a book someday..."
"Am I giving you enough work to do?"
The answer to that is a resounding, "Yes," considering the planning that I was doing at the time and that the tone is that it is all about you and your collection.
Furthermore, week in and week out I see S.G. posting up important historical articles and other materials that educate and otherwise benefit those who frequent S.T. And Seattle was a stop on this road trip, so I wanted to meet him in person. As my personal appreciation for how he serves this community, I asked him what he might want from my collection. He had zero Dolt pins or hooks. I have a few; I'm actually a fairly generous guy.
The tone of your posting above is similar to your emails:
Steve, I am totally jealous that you are actually touching a Dolt Cobra Hook.........Dog!
And BooDawg I totally Boo you for not returning my emails.....Hamster! I still would love to have a closer photo and measurements of the Dolt nut tool holder............
by chance did you save me a Dolt hanger?
It seems to be all about you, Marty.
S.G. went to S. CA and recorded Mark Powell's remembrances. He's offered to come to Hawaii to photograph my clatch rather than asking me to do it for him. He has a generousity and selflessness that I admire.
My suggestion to you is to relax, to not take how others relate to each other as a personal affront to yourself, to practice selflessness on a daily basis, and, well, I could go on, but I have to catch a very early flight to CA tomorrow a.m. to begin the next phase of this sojourn to Yosemite, Tuolumne, and the East Side... I wish I had time to visit you in AZ. If you plan a trip to Hawaii, please look me up; there might be a Dolt bolt hanger in it for you.
Sending you my aloha is
Ken
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 18, 2010 - 02:04am PT
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There is an article in the new Rock & Ice (#188) about Tom Frost and his photography, by Cory Rich. Including many photos of Frost's not previously published, and the story behind the photos. Well worth a look.
Frost's story is that they were preparing for the second ascent of the Nose, in 1960, when Bill "Furror" (Feuerer) stopped by and handed his Leica to Tom, saying "You'll want it." So the photo of Pratt and Robbins with the gear was the first photograph that Frost ever took.
"Furror". There should be a furore about such ignorance.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 18, 2010 - 02:37am PT
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I went climbing with Ghost today at Index and he was making fun of my baby rucksack. I said, "hey, at least it's a Dolt pack." I don't know how many years I've had it, but it's still working fine.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 18, 2010 - 04:55am PT
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Uhhh,
> He had zero Dolt pins or hooks.
Probably a misunderstanding or a technicality - in 2007 Steve posted a photo of his Dolt "Non-piton?" (nut tool):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=468503&tn=20
A couple of weeks ago, my partner needed to place a fixed pin on a new route, in one of those spots where the crack goes straight down and a nut doesn't work. He had been short on Lost Arrows, but found some deal on ebay where a guy sold him a quantity of Long Dongs at a good price. He just cut 'em off with a bandsaw - now they are good pitons! :-)
I sort of feel sorry for Marty; I think he was just trying to say that he's a "serious collector"; that your stuff was desired and would be appreciated. I guess it backfired and maybe it looked like the stuff would be lost in the volume of his collection. Of course, I'm sure Steve appreciates it, too, so I'm not saying it is an easy decision to make.
I guess I wonder - is there a "right" way for a person to state their interest in an item? Would it work to say something like "I have been looking for a [Dolt Cobra?] for [20?] years, and I would really like to have a chance to bid on it. My starting bid would be [$300?]" Or does it kind of backfire? I suppose ultimately, even if you are the high bidder, it does not mean you would appreciate it the most; it might just mean you have more spare cash than the rest of the bidders. And I think Marty may have been at a disadvantage because he doesn't post as much on supertopo as Steve does.
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BooDawg
Social climber
On the Road, Pacific Slope
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Aug 18, 2010 - 09:55am PT
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Clint, I appreciate and take to heart your perspective and Marty's. Part of the campfire is about building relationships. I don't think there is a "right" way to express interest in another's possessions that will work for everyone and how they relate to each other. I remain open to Marty's desires as I tried to make clear. Had I been going to AZ, and had other conditions been more favorable, Marty might have some of what he covets. That door is not closed, but he has a better sense of what will work for me now. As I said, I'm actually a generous guy, but relationships have to work in two directions. Thank you for your comments; I always appreciate your presence here on S.T.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 18, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
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Ken- Would you take a guess at the start and end dates of production for the delicate eye shape like yours. You mentioned elsewhere that yours were a early run when you went up on the eighth ascent of the Nose.
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BooDawg
Social climber
On the Road, Pacific Slope
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Aug 18, 2010 - 08:42pm PT
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Guessing the beginning date of the production run is easier than guessing the end. Don and I did the Nose in March of 1967, so my guess is that it these pins began to be made in Jan. or Feb. of '67 because upon further reflection on your & my conversations, Bill Dolt brought a bunch of the newly minted pegs to West Ridge and asked us to take them up the nose to test them. That partly answers your question to me about why I even had some when they were so expensive compared to L.A.'s.
I think the best way to get the beginning of the production of the new-improved design would be to puruse Dolt's ads in Summit and see when the new DoltPeg designs appear. Don or others may have a better way to guess this than I.
Edit: Checking Clint's link to your Steve's earlier posting which was Oct. 22, 1967 shows that Dolt changed the design almost immediately following our ascent of the Nose, probably based on the information we gained about how the early model performed on our climb.
We only brought back 4 pegs that we'd actually pounded on up on the Nose which were the ones which he had gold-plated. I cannot find mine and haven't heard whether Don still has the one that Dolt gave to him. A very few of us have insights into where the other 2 now lie, but these 4 would be the rarest of the rare.
Edit 2: I just spoke with Don, and he has no recollection of the gold-plated DoltPegs, nor does he believe that he even has any DoltPegs at all in his possession. But he DOES HAVE an old box of hardware that he hasn't looked at in many years that we can look at when I visit him over Labor Day. Should be a fun time!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 18, 2010 - 10:39pm PT
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Shouldn't be too hard to spot a gold plated Dolt piton!
Thanks for the background. I will try to sort out the ads.
Don will be with you in a minute! From Summit October 1966.
Classic Dolt photo of Powell pioneering the Stovelegs. From Summit July/August 1966.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 21, 2010 - 01:10am PT
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BooDawg, I am not after your gear, and I am sorry that I have somehow got you upset. You have many fun words to describe me, but all I was asking for was a photo. I have searched for 20+ years for anything about Dolt to preserve in a future museum or create a book about his life. I feel that the contributions that Dolt made to American climbing is beyond special and needs to be preserved. I am not hording the Dolt, just trying to get it to somewhere whom builds a museum. If the Yosemite Museum was not traveling this stuff would already be on display. Go Chicken Skinner Go!
Your gear is special and I don't need any of your gear, just a photo of your Dolt Nut Tool Holder would be sweet since so far you have the only evidence of its existence. If possible please post it on this thread to add to this amazing body of history.
Have tons of fun on your vacation!
Marty
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 21, 2010 - 01:11am PT
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But Steve,............You are still a Dog! :)
Dolt advertised his 3 Cobra hooks in Summit Mag dec issue 1968 page 28, then April 1970 summit mag page 33 states "SIXTY COBRAS ON MY BENCH, Which one is for a pretty wench? DOLT"
So this evidence shows there are at least 63 Cobra hooks in existence.
Marty
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 21, 2010 - 01:48am PT
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Chicken Skinner, I got your/this photo from the Salathe Thread. This is a photo of John Salathes bolts he used on routes. I believe that the spoon end pick looking thing on the right side of the photo is a Dolt bolt hole scraper. It is shown with the hammers, first scraper, lower left corner in the Dolt 1958 catalog
Rock on! Marty
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 21, 2010 - 01:50am PT
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So how well did these hooks actually work? They seem great for some pockets or for ledges, but seem sketch for some sloping stuff that I have come across.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 21, 2010 - 02:03am PT
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The Cobra page from Summit December 1968. I posted as Mimi previously...
They would have worked as well as most until the Logan hook came along.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 21, 2010 - 11:07am PT
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Hey Marty!
After some internal debate, I decided to leave the Dolt Nut Tool in Hawaii, but I'll get you the photos that you seek. You'll just have to wait until Mid-Sept.
Just so you know, I'm not upset with you, and I DO appreciate your motivations and your efforts in collecting both the gear and the history.
Rock on! Ken
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 21, 2010 - 11:10am PT
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Where are you guys? Sailing back up this way for some killer sushi?!?
Edit- Stuck in RBII. LOL
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Aug 21, 2010 - 02:42pm PT
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Two minutes on a buffer brought it from used to shiny. His pitons and hooks are like pieces of art and I wish I had more of his stuff.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 21, 2010 - 04:28pm PT
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Do you recall where and when you picked up that piton?
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Aug 21, 2010 - 05:42pm PT
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Check your email....
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Ken
Trad climber
Arroyo Grande
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Aug 22, 2010 - 04:07pm PT
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Dolt shipping box (with Dolt packing tape)
Dolt hangars (1 Leeper)
Chouinard holster
unknown holster
Hammerdactyl (Porter crafted after return from Scotland)
(
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 22, 2010 - 04:58pm PT
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No question that the Dolt was fired up about his impending horizontals!
From Summit in April of 1967-Year of the Dolt! I love it.
The exhaustive hammer holster ad from Summit January February 1967-YOD...LOL!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 28, 2010 - 06:54pm PT
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A classic Dolt photo of Mark Powell leading the traverse off Texas Flake.
From Summit April 1959.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2010 - 12:25am PT
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God, how do I put this all together?
First, the Dolt Company “Non-Piton” ad was written by me for the Dolt Company. The Dolt Company was formed after Bill’s death by one of my partners at West Ridge, Tom Limp. I sold him the corporate name.
The Non-Piton was nothing more than a bunch of Dolt piton blanks (hundreds of which came with the estate) that I had Dennis Hennek forge out (on Chouinard’s forge) into the extreme length. Quite a few were forged from titanium blanks. Just recently Hennek presented me with two he had been saving all this time.
Not only did I end up with ALL Dolt’s hardware inventory and raw stock, but I had most of his photos – B&W as well as slides. The Powell poster shot – which is the first ascent lead off of Texas Flake – is one of the classic B&W negs that I ended up with. Alas, after loaning these negs out so many times to various authers for various books, they have somehow been lost.
As for his outrageously beautiful, highly polished Dolt Pegs, that is another story. This story is not meant to denigrate anyone, but just to get the story out. I almost don’t want to bury it here. Maybe I’ll post it separately later.
The Story
Bill Feuerer died intestate – no will. The estate went into probate and as I understand it, since Dolt had no known living relatives, the State of Califiornia was in charge of the distribution of his assets. Again, as I understand it, the State Public Administrator is the office that handles that duty.
As I mentioned in the sixth entry to this thread, “One day he [Dolt] came in with a box under his arm. The box was nicely finished wood. Inside, nestled in red velvet, was his "complete" selection of highly finished Lost Arrow style pins all neatly seated in the velvet. I don't remember the exact number, but there were more than ten. He was offering me this collection in appreciation of West Ridge's help through the years. I paid him around $120 for the box and its contents and put the box on a shelf in my office.”
Again, as mentioned in the sixth entry, “Bill had been having difficulties all through the year 1970 in deciding whether to remain an employee of McDonnell Douglas or to quit and give The Dolt Company his complete attention. Later that year, he told me he wanted to buy back his pin collection to use for advertising photos. I told him that he could use them as long as he wished for that purpose, but that a deal is a deal, I would not sell them. He was comfortable with that and took them.”
After his death, I just happened to notice the ad in the local Santa Monica newspaper offering Dolt’s business estate on auction. As mentioned above, my corporation, West Ridge, had the high bid.
I was curious as to what became of his personal assets – his VW, and in particular, my set of Dolt pins. These were the things found at his house rather than his “factory”. I expected to see them raffled off at some future date.
Weeks later, someone came into my retail store, West Ridge, and announced he had just been out to Stoney Point and that R.J Secor (yes, the well known California mountaineer and guidebook author) was out there showing off a wonderful collection of beautifully polished Dolt Pegs. I, of course, knew that those were really mine since Dolt said they were the only complete set he ever created.
When I found out the next day that the California State Public Administrator was R.J. Secor’s father, I realized that R.J. had had some inside access to the personal estate. I wrote him and questioned him on that account. He never replied and to this day I believe the public never had a chance to bid fairly on his personal estate. Regardless, the pins were not Dolt’s! They were mine- on loan.
C’est la vie!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 29, 2010 - 11:29am PT
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That set of Doltpins has to be in the world still. Did you ever contact Secor?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 29, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
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Full set of highly polished Dolt pitons wrapped in red velvet,
..........It's like the best Christmas gift ever!
I hope someday it will surface but so far it's been missing since 1971.
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Aug 30, 2010 - 11:03am PT
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Since reading this thread essentially cover to cover, the whereabouts of the Dolt "Box o Chocolates" has always been a mystery. I would love to just see them.
The 39 year old pin hunt continues on
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BooDawg
Social climber
On the Road, Pacific Slope
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Aug 31, 2010 - 11:19am PT
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Thanks, Don for finally posting this story. See you in Tuolumne this week? I'm on my way to get a campsite now. I'll call you.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 31, 2010 - 11:28am PT
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Ditto Don-hey, I like that name.
About time this surfaced. Now for the treasure hunt and where it will lead? Thems that find it, will be the lucky ones.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 31, 2010 - 12:09pm PT
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The Feuerer's Lost Treasure...a chest of golden nails! Harrrrr!
Have a great time me buckos! I'll be thinking about ya while I sand the decks o' fir! Shiver me belts and sheets...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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A Dolt model W holster. Pretty amazing that Bill went to the trouble to patent his holster series!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Some Spidernuts that recently came my way along with the Doltster.
These look like they were made this morning!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 11, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
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Spider Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 11, 2010 - 09:13pm PT
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Original Keyhole Bump!
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paralysis
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Sep 11, 2010 - 11:35pm PT
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Party Bump!
Hennek's peg! What have we here??? Anyone care to guess?
More to come!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 12, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
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I'm drawing a blank... LOL
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 12, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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The man was ahead of his time . . . so many contributions to the concepts that have shaped climbing gear evolution. Combine this with his impeccable craftsmanship and you have a true visionary.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paralysis
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Sep 12, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
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Good one, Steve...
Except that it was Hennek who drew the blanks, well heated, out into these:
This one's for you, Marty; grid-size is 1/4".
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 12, 2010 - 03:57pm PT
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Nice, Ken - thanks for sharing!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 12, 2010 - 05:53pm PT
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Ken- Did Dennis mention whether Dolt or Chouinard used more than one die for short and long horizontals?
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paralysis
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Sep 12, 2010 - 06:30pm PT
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Dennis never mentioned 2 blank sizes; if there had been 2 sizes of the Dolt blanks, I'm sure he'd have had one of each with him last weekend. I doubt Chouinard did either, tho I'm unsure how the excess volume of material on the smaller sizes was dealt with. I'll ask Dennis to post the answer here...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 12, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
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The only Chouinard blank I ever saw was a lead test one that Tom Frost had and it was only one size. It is in the YCA collection now.
Pretty easy to hot nip the end off while forging but a lot of waste for a short thin Arrow.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 12, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
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Thanks BooDawg for sharing the Dolt Nut Tool Holder.
Marty
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 12, 2010 - 08:17pm PT
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It does explain why Arrows were always the same price regardless of size until Camp made dies for each individual size. The blades carry the now familiar numbers 1 - 8 stamped into the eye side.
Boodawg- Did Dolt ever sell one of those leather nut tool holders beyond your example?
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paralysis
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Sep 12, 2010 - 08:31pm PT
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As far as I know, Dolt himself never even SAW one; Dennis made just a few after Lauria passed the forging torch, so to speak, to him. Dennis punched a few (how many?) cleaning tool Dolsters out and gave them to friends. Probably none were ever sold, tho Lauria would know since they'd have been sold through West Ridge.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 12, 2010 - 08:47pm PT
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I asked because of the pattern. Looks much bigger than his regular holsters.
Dolt Sheath?!?
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paralysis
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Sep 12, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
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I'm actually not sure what pattern Dennis used to make the nutcleaner holsters. He'll be able to answer that...
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Sep 14, 2010 - 02:16pm PT
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I guess I really want to know who Hennek is/ was. If he was pounding Dolt blanks into pins and nut tools, is he still around? What is his story? Mr. Hennek, if you are already on this thread, please excuse my ignorance:)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 18, 2010 - 12:11pm PT
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You definitely have a little catching up to do!
Dennis looking superstud while turning yet another lip during the second ascent of the NA Wall with Don Lauria! RR photo.
Cover of Mountain---not too shabby!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 19, 2010 - 11:57am PT
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Another classic shot from the NA repeat taken from Galen's Vertical World of Yosemite- the Book of Dreams!
Looks like a Cobra Hook, too!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 25, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
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The unsung Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 25, 2010 - 02:33pm PT
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Would you post that Cobra on this thread. Then perhaps somebody will have a Curly Tailed Cobra for show and tell. The "for slight overhangs" probably scared people off. LOL
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paralysis
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Sep 25, 2010 - 02:46pm PT
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Here are the 2 pics of Dennis' Cobra that I posted on "Ancestors and Archives":
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 25, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
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That's the one in the "bruised and blackened" shot! Classic!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Jan 16, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
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Mint condition.
Ken
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 16, 2011 - 12:36pm PT
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I wonder how many of those boots ever sold?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jan 17, 2011 - 01:46am PT
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WOW!!!......
Rock on! Marty
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jan 17, 2011 - 09:49am PT
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I read all of the original posts by Don earlier in the weekend and have been thinking about them and the life of Bill Feuerer on and off since. I feel like I do after watching an especially poignant movie. What a great contribution.
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Jan 17, 2011 - 04:43pm PT
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You know what would be really awesome is a stack of those Dolt Logo Patches from the boots.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 17, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
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although these have been on another thread, they should be here too:
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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Jul 17, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
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not sure if this has been posted before...
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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Jul 17, 2011 - 03:56pm PT
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Peter, great collection of Dolt bashies...
Here's some more on display at Gary's shop.
And a detail of the bashies.
Any ideas what the re-numbering thing is all about?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 17, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
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My bet is too much alcohol...
If you are in a stable place with your image hosting, it would really be fun to reshoot or repost all of the photos from Gary's shop in a new thread. The last one was cool but can't be edited anymore.
I love to see Neptune's Trove!
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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This little piece of plastic leaves me scratching my head in wonder. Why? When? How many? and then Why again!
My best guess is that it was a marketing piece that Dolt personally handed out. Again, my guess is that he made it in late 69 or 70.
Any ideas?
Climb on!- RO
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Summit Magazine November 1959
Happy Holidays!
Rock on! Marty
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
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Doltbump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 10, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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I recently picked up another Type W Doltster for show and tell. Dolt loved these things and it shows. Patent Designation Number #208289.
The taller version on the right just lets a new Yosemite hammer pass.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 10, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
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On the subject of holsters, does anyone know where they can be bought now? Holsters of the same type as the Dolt ones that Steve posted? The kind that you put on a belt? I need one.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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Ebay or somebody makes sewn ones like that Fish guy...
Don't take your hammer to town Anders. Twon't end well.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 11, 2012 - 10:59am PT
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Mastodon Dolt Bump...
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Apr 11, 2012 - 11:04am PT
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
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Mar 10, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
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Hey All,
If I've somehow missed the answer to this question, please forgive me the oversight.
Does anyone know the whereabouts of the stamps Dolt used to mark his gear?
I'm not asking out of interest in acquisition, but rather out of curiosity. It would be nice to know that they are somewhere in good care.
Thanks much.
Audrey
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 10, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
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Audrey,
I think that Marty Karabin may have some but Don would be the best source of information on their whereabouts.
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jabbas
Trad climber
phx AZ
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Mar 10, 2013 - 08:03pm PT
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Do you think Dolt knew Bill Sewrey ( of Arizona Desert Mountain Sports). His Arizona original shop on 16th street was always a gathering , happening place. In '83 or '84 Bill Sewrey decide to sell his personal wall and climbing rack due to his own personal back , health and age issues. I bought as much of his rack as I could afford. It has Dolt, Forrest, Chouinard hardware. If not for this post ,I would have not known of those Dolt type skyhook symmetrical looking hooks. I thought Bill Sewrey made it and now it looks like it is a Dolt. Thanks to all who added to this historic post. I'll post pic's when I dig into my sea chest.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
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Mar 31, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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Hey jabbas, missed this when you posted. What great luck! Would love to see some pics of the gear!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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jabbas- The number of retail shops was pretty small back in those days so the two Bills had to know each other. The Summit Hut carried Dolt gear in 1970 when I started climbing and had done so for years. Sure wish that I had bought it all, BITD! Who knew...
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
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May 19, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
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Hey Marty!
Thanks so much for posting a picture of the stamps -- they're beautiful. I'm so glad they're in good hands. ")
A
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Sep 30, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
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DOLT bump!
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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:D I have a few more, but I wouldn't want to bore y'all to tears.
Edit:
Thanks for catching my typo, Clint.
Bill's grandmother on his father's side was Caroline Bechtold, daughter of Ambros Bechtold and Theresia Hoerth. The families were in winemaking, going back generations. We'll have to wait until late October to learn who Bill's mother's parents were -- this is when the genealogist was able to make an appointment with the church to view the records. Despite untold hours of research, I haven't been able to determine how she is connected to a cousin and certain uncles who also came to the U.S. after WWI.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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I'm seeing a marriage of Maximilian Feurer and Luitgard König on 24 Nov? 1858.
With him age 30 (geb. 12/3 Okt 1828) and her age 24 (geb. 6 Jun 1834).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Not boring me and this is the perfect thread for all things Dolt!
Thanks for sharing your discoveries with us.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
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Those Dolt stamps were part of the Dolt estate that I purchased at auction after his death. Marty has pretty much acquired everything Dolt that I had left after keeping these things in my garage for decades.
A lot of stuff got away from me though and I have no recollection of how or when. Things like the Dolt winch, the Dolt cart, his 150 lb. anvil mounted on a tree stump, and , of course, the beautiful set of polished Dolt pegs that were somehow left out of his estate. I think RJ Secor has the answer to that riddle, but he has never come clean. Ah, sweet mysteries of life.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Here is a copy of the marriage record for Bill's mother's parents in Weidach (near Stuttgart), Germany. His grandparents were Paul Albert Gohl of Degerloch and Johanna Barbara Mueller of Weidach.
Bill's mother's name was Emma Klara Gohl, and she had 3 siblings. She came to the US at 17 in 1922 with her 16-year-old cousin Lina Strobel to stay with an uncle in Brooklyn, NY. Her grandparents were Karl Friedrich Gohl and Karoline Luise Ries (or Kies), both of Degerloch, and Johann Georg Mueller and Maria Katharina Keppler of Weidach and Stetten, respectively.
It is probably only a coincidence, but Bill's grandmother and the family that so kindly raised Bill until majority share the same family name: Mueller. It was Mrs. Clara Mueller of Monee, Illinois, that took Bill home from the Ulich Orphan Home in Chicago in 1939.
I'm still researching to try to see if I can find any living descendants of Bill's family. So far, DNA testing hasn't resulted in any close cousins, but there are several folks originating from Germany to whom I am related (we just need to figure out how!).
You know, I'm still blown away by the fact that had you guys not shared all of these stories about Bill, I never would have found him. I'll never be able to thank you enough. My eyes are filling with tears again, so I'll sign off for now. I just really want all of you to know how very grateful I am for giving me a place in this world.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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For all your hard work sleuthing, you have earned it Sister!
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Hang in there kid,
It will happen; somewhere down the line with time you will find someone that is connected and knew about your dad. Took some time with my sister now she has about half a dozen that got in contact.
Hope you are felling well as can be. As for me half alive, half dead but still kicking.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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")
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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A Trunut just for Younut thanks to a very generous fellow named Ben Mealy who sent me two of a kind, both pristine and Valentine red.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Dec 21, 2013 - 11:46am PT
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Robert and I did a Dolt trade for Christmas, or as we say, Merry Doltmas!
Does anybody have any information about this small Dolt plastic piton logo?
I know of three in existence, all different colors.
I assume these were created sometime in 1970, maybe to add to his product hangtags, or to be used as zipper pulls for his upcoming ideas.
Thanks Robert for the trade, My Christmas is awesome!
Keep up the good research Audrey!
Tonight is our Shaman sweat Lodge ceremony, I will include blessings for you!
Feel the energy!
Happy Holidays everybody! Marty
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Dec 22, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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Thanks, Marty! ")
Hope to be able to procure additional genealogical research in the New Year, and to follow up on about 100 different leads in twice as many directions...nothing like a good puzzle.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 23, 2013 - 01:53am PT
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Dolt advertised gold-plated pitons mounted on Rosewood in Summit Magazine. Was that a joke or did he actually make some? It would probably be to order but has anybody seen one? Remember or have the ads?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 23, 2013 - 02:04am PT
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Dan,
The answer is early in this thread.
He made them, and Don Lauria had them.
RJ Secor borrowed them but never returned them.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 23, 2013 - 05:48am PT
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Well, Merry Doltmas, RJ.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Dec 23, 2013 - 09:22am PT
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I had a beautiful Dolt angle-about 3/4 inch, unused. I looked for it years ago, but I never found it. I still have a nice pin and cobra cliffhanger-both unused. Will post pictures when I learn how to use my new camera, bought just a few days ago.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 23, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
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Still searching for an example of the elusive Curly Tailed Cobra Hook!
I hope that yours is one of those but please post up regardless.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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Ah, the beautiful Dolt pins!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
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Dolt as a USAF recruit.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
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Dolt on the Traitor Horn at Tahquitz.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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Dolt photo of Gallwas on the first ascent of the Totem Pole. Still has that damn hat.
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BuzzyK
Trad climber
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Dec 23, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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This is hands down the best trad climbing pack I've ever used. So functional with the pockets the right size in the right place. I had no idea about the maker or potential significance until learning a bit about Yosemite history. It was bought for $5 at a San Jose op shop. I would be really happy to send this to a museum or similar. No good gathering dust in NZ. Does anyone know the year of manufacture? The logo seems modernised from other photos on this post.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
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That pack was made after Dolt's death by Tom Limp. Limp had his own pack company called Westridge Manufacturing and later purchased the Dolt corporate name from me and began producing Dolt packs. The label on this one is a very early version of his logo which evolved into the more common Dolt logo shown below.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 23, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
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Thanks Clint. That's an awesome shot of Dolt pins Don. Somebody wanted to see a Cobra. Would make my day to see a gold plated Dolt Pin! Just a photo that is.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 23, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
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Cool, Dan - I haven't noticed that "vertical" Dolt piton before, but I suppose Marty has one or several! :-)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 23, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
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Nice Dolt pieces Dan!
I am also curious about the blade piton. Do you recall when you might have bought that one as I have never seen it advertized.
I wonder what Bill called that design.
Cheers
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Dec 23, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
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Don, those pictures are about the best Christmas presents ever, ever, ever....thank you.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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May 17, 2014 - 08:19pm PT
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SMC Rappel Ring and RINGDOLT.
Thanks to Eric a few RINGDOLTS have surfaced!
Summit Magazine March 1969 is the first listing I can find for the RINGDOLT rappel ring. What is cool about this RINGDOLT is that it is colored gold. I am guessing that when Dolt colored the Trunuts and Spidernuts around March 1971, he colored the rappel rings as well. RINGDOLT holds 3500lbs and sold for 20 cents.
What is cool about the SMC rappel ring is that when you cut it in half you will discover that it is hollow inside. SMC rappel ring is rated to 2000lbs.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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May 18, 2014 - 12:02am PT
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Awesome, Marty. TFPU & for sharing.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sorry about that, the Ringdolt sold for 1.40 each and the Dolt-O-ring sold for 20 cents in 1967. The Dolt-O-Ring is a better gasket he sold for fuel bottles.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jun 24, 2014 - 08:08pm PT
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Steve, that flat Dolt pin was on my rack in the late 60s. I don't know what it was called.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 25, 2014 - 12:51pm PT
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Dan- I bet that was one of his first commercial releases once he had stamps made and a real treasure at that!
There is no reasonable basis for any patent that I can see in that shape beyond being ringless but it is easy to say that one was pending. I wonder what Bill was thinking here?
Thanks for sharing it with us.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jun 27, 2014 - 12:59pm PT
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I still continually ponder the question on why did William 'Dolt' Feuerer commit suicide. For years I figured it had to do with Chouinard and the amount of new gear being introduced at that 1966-1971 time. Besides Chouinard there was Forrest, Troll, Clog, Colorado Nuts, Moac, Peck, and many more. Maybe Dolt was not willing to compete with these new gear companies and worked himself into exhaustion, at the same time he did not want to show failure.
"I always hoped that the reason Dolt died was because he couldn't hold romance in his life, and he put the passion he sought for into his products." Quotes like this make great hollywood movies!
I believe Dolt looked up to Chouinard, because of Chouinard's climbing skills and his passion for creating climbing gear. They shared a common passion, which shows in Dolts 1960 catalog showing Chouinard products. Was Dolt a major climber? Did he climb every weekend and do expeditions and stuff? I know of a few climbs that Dolt was on, but not many. Chouinard was living the climbing and surfing lifestyle. Dolt was partying with Harding on the Nose, yo-yoing the lower half. The missing piece to my Dolt puzzle may be these Bongs used on the second ascent of the Nose.
I keep looking at these bongs made by Frost / Dolt for the Sept 1960 second ascent of the Nose (thanks Clint). I don't believe that the second hole is on the Bong for weight reduction, but is there for a second tie off option. The Bongs get used on the climb and then are sold afterwards to the public. So at this point Dolt is upset with Frost for selling off the Bongs and giving Chouinard ideas. Dolt still advertises Chouinard products in the Summit magazines until summer 1961. Then mid 1961 Chouinard introduces his line of 4 aluminum bongs for sale, which are similar to the Frost / Dolt bongs. Dolt announces he is out of business January 1962. No more orders accepted after January 31, 1962. Dolt is done with climbing gear.
Chouinard keeps the climbing lifestyle through the early 1960s, while creating a few new pitons and joins the Army in winter 1962 - July 1964. Chouinard hardly advertised his products and only single page price lists of his products were sent to climbing stores until 1965 (?). Dolt works for McDonnell Douglas as an engineer. Chouinard moves to Ventura CA in 1966 and teams up with Tom Frost creating the Great Pacific Iron Works. Many new products start to be created. Dolt announces that he is back in business July 1966. Many new products start to be created.
Now is this the start of Dolt getting back at Frost and getting back at Chouinard by challenging their craftsmanship? Both Dolt and Chouinard/Frost create amazing products. The best gear available at that time. Both at this time put the "USA" on their products. Dolts stardolt 5 super steel pitons are listed as indestructible. Dolt shows his ego through his quirky Dolt advertisements in the Summit magazines. Dolt is the "Master craftsman to mountaineers." Maybe Chouinard and Frost didn't care about Dolts (possible vendetta), and Dolt became frustrated not having the subconscious challenge being presented. Dolt would then find himself buried in orders to fill of his gear, the gear that he lost the reason to create.
This is just a Marty theory so don't take this story as history. Also Tom and Yvon, I love you guys and I am not saying that you killed the Dolt. Good grief! :) I am just saying that Dolt was a very passionate man and something on the inside of Dolts head was bugging him, and bugging him for a long time. I am copying this post to the Dolt Stories thread.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jul 13, 2014 - 02:17pm PT
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Dolt Toolbox
Don Lauria donated this Toolbox to the Karabin Museum many years ago. This was the toolbox that Dolt carried back and forth to his engineering job at Mcdonnell Douglas in the late 1960s early 1970s. Maybe Don has more history on this toolbox. I like the toolbox since it became the storage place for my Dolt gear. Now every time I open it, it feels like the greatest birthday party is happening.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 13, 2014 - 05:12pm PT
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^^^Way cool!^^^
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 08:23am PT
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Assuming these are Dolt Nutcrackers....why the different lengths?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jul 15, 2014 - 07:00am PT
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The Nutcrackers were hand forged causing the different lengths. These Dolt nut tools were made after Dolt died so they are not a Dolt made product, but were made from Dolt piton blanks.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jul 27, 2014 - 03:27pm PT
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A Dolt book of matches sold recently on ebay. I wonder if these Dolt matches are the "DOLTMATCH" listing in the Summit Magazine ad November 1967.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Oct 24, 2014 - 05:27pm PT
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From Dolt's confirmation in 1947...
The descendants of Dolt's foster family continue to take care of him. <3
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Nov 22, 2014 - 10:31pm PT
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Presently up for auction on ebay. This one will probably sell for lots of big bucks.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Nov 27, 2014 - 11:23am PT
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This wordage is from the present ebay auction of the piton shown above.
................................................................................
This Original Dolt Angle Piton was generously donated to help support the ASCA, it's a bare bones nonprofit organization of dedicated climbers who replace unsafe anchors and reduce the visual and environmental impacts of climbing.
A Little bit about the Dolt Piton:
This is an original steel piton hand made by William Feuerer, also know as Bill Dolt (or Doldt) that was created in 1957 for the attempted ascents of the Nose of El Capitan, the first major route climbed on El Capitan. It measures at 7'' long and weighs close to 2 lbs!
'Today, climbers tend to associate The Nose with Warren Harding, who undoubtedly was the driving force behind the climb: the route is, indeed, his masterpiece. However, Harding had numerous companions on the venture, most notably Mark Powell and Bill (Dolt) Feuerer in the beginning and Wayne Merry and George Whitmore at the end.
Aced out of the first ascent of Half Dome in July of 1957, Harding, Powell, and Feuerer began a siege (of the Nose of El Capitan) that continued until November of 1958. Powell was injured on a simple climb, and unable to continue climbing at his previously high standard he slowly dropped out of the climb. Feuerer developed other interests too, leaving Harding to con whomever he could into belaying or portering. The route was the work of many people, but it had been planned from the start by the original three, Harding, Powell and Feuerer.'
NOTE: The picture above is an old parks service photo showing the piton in hand.
Thank you for looking and helping support the American Safe Climbing Association.
On Nov-21-14 at 18:22:04 PST, seller added the following information:
NOTE: In the Parks Service photo you can see Dave Rearick holding the Piton, it was taken shortly after their assent in 1960. This is the very piton used on the diamond to climb D1.
D1 is the quintessential Diamond climb. Sustained and pumpy, some funky rock, great exposure, classic history- simply a great place to be. The first route climbed on the Diamond, it was freed in the late '70s via a horrendous, wet 5.11 chimney above Table Ledge that may still be unrepeated.
There is a lot of history behind this old piton and it would make a great addition to any collection, thanks again for the support.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Nov 28, 2014 - 07:44pm PT
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ebay Dolt Piton sold for $1425.00
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jimthomsen
Social climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Nov 28, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
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I want to add some photos to this thread. I have put them on another, but I think it is important to put these stories in one place.
I first meet Bill Dolt when I was at UCLA. My first day of school (1968) I looked in the newspaper and saw, "UCLA Mountaineers Club, meets daily 10 am to 3 pm." That sort of set the tone of my university years.
In 1970 my brother and I managed a mountaineering shop in Tarzana, California "The Mountain Shop" and Bill would stop by often with new products. We tried to buy everything...and the things that didn't sell we ended up with. Unfortunately neither of us still have all the great items we once owned....probably the many homes, many jobs and too many wives..
He bought his first climbing guide to the high Sierra in Yosemite in 1955 and kept a lit of his early climbs:
Bill would put photos he took next to poems he wrote:
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 28, 2014 - 10:46pm PT
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Wow Jim, Dolt poems! I see Marty posted a 'gold-plated piton' ad. I'm pretty sure there wss an ad with a photo of the pins also, but I may have just created that in my mind back then too.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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ebay Dolt Piton sold for $1425.00
It did...and for a while it's going to slow me down financially, but happy to have acquired it.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Nice posting Jim, thanks for the memories.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Dec 16, 2014 - 12:33pm PT
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well as a new miner as compared to T H here are some Gems,,,....
B. U. M. P.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Dec 17, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Dec 20, 2014 - 10:43pm PT
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Happy Holidays everybody!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jan 25, 2015 - 09:41am PT
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I have copies of three different Dolt catalogs and am wondering if anybody has any others to share.
This catalog has no dates but I believe it is from 1958. Shows a full set of Dolt Angle pitons.
Mark Powell and Kat Pinnacle front cover. 4 pages.
First page at top states, “The Dolt Hut Catalogue Supplement #2.” Dated March 10, 1960. David Rearick at Stoney Point front cover. 10 pages.
Letter on front cover, dated, “June 22, 1967.” 12 pages.
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Piner
Mountain climber
Truckee
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Mar 13, 2015 - 07:43am PT
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Just saw a Dolt Holster listed on eBay. Bump for a great thread!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Mar 29, 2015 - 04:25pm PT
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Yes that ebay leather Dolt hammer holster was hard to resist. Very clean Dolt logo stamp and I have no Dolt proof that these were created. This leather Dolt Holster is nicely crafted. All of the edges are rounded, even the slots on the belt plate are sanded smooth. Comparing the Dolt leather holster to other leather holsters: On other holsters the slots on the belt plates were too thin and the hammer holder tube was too soft causing it to collapse.
…………………………………………………………………………………………………
Dolt Hammer Holsters
Not all of these Dolt Holsters have surfaced yet, but I believe this is the history lineup:
— 1958 - January 1962: Dolt Holster, leather, small logo stamp, longer belt plate, short hammer holder tube,
copper rivets.
- Jet black
- Medium brown
— 1966 early - 1966 October: Dolt Super Holster, large logo stamp, only “USA” stamp, small 5/16” rivets,
brass washers, small belt plate, long hammer holder tube.
- Model B, ebony, firm
- Model W, translucent brown, flexible
— 1966 Oct - 1967 August: Doltster, large logo stamp, “USA” stamp, “Pat Pend.” stamp, small 5/16” steel rivets,
brass washers, all have long hammer holder tubes,
- Model B, ebony, firm, short belt plate
- Model W, brown, flexible, short belt plate
- Model F, blue, firm, long belt plate
- Model K, red, flexible, long belt plate
— 1967 August(?): Doltster, leather, large logo stamp, small 5/16” steel rivets, aluminum washers,
short hammer holder tube,
- Brown leather
— 1967 August - 1968(?): Doltster, large logo stamp “USA” stamp, Pat 208/289 stamp, small steel 5/16” rivets,
brass washers, all have long hammer holder tubes.
- Model B, ebony, firm, short belt plate
- Model W, brown, flexible, short belt plate
- Model F, blue, firm, long belt plate
- Model K, red, flexible, long belt plate
— 1968(?) - 1971(?): Doltster, small logo stamp “USA” stamp, Pat 208/289 stamp, large steel 3/8” rivets,
aluminum washers, all have long hammer holder tubes, many different color combinations,
- Model B, ebony, firm, short belt plate
- Model W, brown, flexible, short belt plate
- Model F, blue, firm, long belt plate
- Model K, red, flexible, long belt plate
— 1968(?) - 1971(?): Doltster, some of the models now have short hammer holder tubes, large 3/8 steel rivets,
aluminum washers, many different color combinations.
- Model B, ebony, firm, short belt plate, short hammer tube
- Model W, brown, flexible, short belt plate, short hammer tube
- Model F, blue, firm, long belt plate, short hammer tube
- Model K, red, flexible, long belt plate, short hammer tube
— 1972(?) - 1974(?): Dolt hammer holster(?), large Dolt logo stamp, patent 208/289 stamp, large 3/8
steel rivets, zinc plated steel washers, medium nylon thickness, no model letter, no “USA” stamp.
- White, short belt plate, short hammer holder tube
- White, long belt plate, short hammer holder tube
………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Bill first created hammer holsters in 1958 and named them the Dolt Holster. The construction was of heavy leather held together with copper rivets. A small Dolt logo was stamped on the belt plate, and it was available in two colors: jet black and medium brown. The 1958 Dolt catalog picture of the holster is important because it shows that Dolt created a small “Dolt piton” logo die stamp tool in 1958.
On the Straka late 1950s holster you can see that Dolt was already modifying the holster design. The hammer holder tube is positioned much higher up, and the slots on the belt plate are cut longer and at a different angle.
Dolt goes out of business in 1962
Dolt advertises he is back in business July 1966.
I believe that Bill came back to climbing early 1966, and took a greater interest in his hammer holsters. Behind the scenes he created a larger “Dolt” piton logo die stamp tool, a “Made in U.S.A.” die stamp tool, and die plates to cut out his two new styles of nylon hammer holsters.
I am not sure how the process of patenting works or when exactly Dolt got the patent numbers to create the “patent 208/289” die stamp tool. Dolt applied for the Patent Oct 1, 1966 which was not completed till August 15, 1967. Did Dolt wait until Aug 1967 to start stamping the patent numbers on his Doltsters? I do have a 1966 B ebony holster that is stamped “Pat. Pend.” on the back. So if he started selling his holsters in July 1966, these holsters would not be marked with “Pat Pend” or “208/289” stamps?
Dolt in September 1966 was down-playing all leather style holsters stating “Replace your sloppy leather holster with a Snappy DOLT nylon holster.”
So this is where the ebay Dolt holster somewhat fits in, and creates a mystery as well. On the front of the ebay Dolt holster it has the larger Dolt “piton” logo stamp. On the back it has “Made in U.S.A.” stamp, and patent 208/289 stamp. So Dolt didn’t get the patent numbers till Oct 1966 when he filed. So if the patent stamp was not used till August 1967, and he was telling everybody to get rid of their leather holsters earlier back in September 1966, then why did Dolt even create this sold on ebay Dolt leather holster? Dolt’s holster advertising campaign was centered around leather being bad. There is no advertised proof that Dolt made this leather holster for public sale. Maybe he made a few for friends or for climbers that just had to have leather. If this leather holster dates back to 1966, then is shows that Dolt was stamping the patent numbers on his product previous to the patent being finalized. The construction of the leather holster matches the 1966 Model B ebony Pat Pend holster, because both have large Dolt logo stamp, small rivets, brass washers. So it places the ebay leather holster sometime late 1966 to mid 1967. The leather holster is not one of a kind since I found this photo back in 2011.
The July/August 1966 Dolt advertisement mentions “two models of holsters available.
The September 1966 Dolt advertisement describes the two holster models:
Model B - ebony (color) - firm nylon
Model W - translucent brown (color) - semi-flexible nylon
Also as a note, looking at the bottom of the Sept 1966 advertisement, already by September 1966 Dolt has his holsters in 25 climbing stores across the United States.
The 1966 model B ebony holster has small rivets and brass washers. The model W holster shown in the photo is a 1968-1971 version with larger rivets and wider slots on the belt clip. The hammer holder tube color on the model W holster is the translucent brown color that Dolt mentions in the advertisement. Both 1966 Model B and Model W holsters had short belt plates and long hammer holder tubes.
I have seen dozens of Dolt hammer holsters over the years, and I am not sure why Dolt advertised certain holsters to be certain colors. For a while I came to the conclusion that the belt plate color determined what the model of the holster was, but over time just the letter stamp is what determined the model, not the color itself. In the later 1960s it seemed like there was no rhyme or reason to the colors. Below is a photo of a 1968 model B two color holster which is stamped with the small Dolt logo. Not sure why Dolt eventually went back to the small Dolt logo stamp instead of keeping the large logo stamp.
October 1966 Summit Magazine Dolt advertisement states that now there are four hammer holster models to choose from. Dolt files for his holster patent Oct 21, 1966.
Below is a Dolt letter (product information sheets) dated January 1967. In this letter Bill gives the history of his holsters and makes his nylon line of hammer holsters solid.
Within the information sheets the logo stamps shown in the pictures, have the large Dolt logo. This proves that in 1966 Dolt created a large “Dolt piton” logo die stamp tool. Also notice that both the short belt plate and long belt plate holster versions all have long hammer holder tubes.
Four models available:
Model B - ebony - firm, short belt plate
Model W - brown - flexible, short belt plate
Model F - blue - firm, long belt plate
Model K - red - flexible, long belt plate
The reason for making a longer belt plate is “for those climbers having long arms which hinder easy hammer access.”
Notice on the two Model W holsters in the Steve Grossman photo, one of the hammer holder tubes is shorter than the other. I have not found any solid Dolt proof on why Dolt eventually offered two hammer holder tube lengths.
Below is Summit Magazine Jan/Feb 1967 inner back cover, stating that the holsters are made with Brass washers and steel rivets. In this letter/advertisement Bill is renaming the holsters to “Dolsters.” Throughout the letter Bill spells it Dolster over and over. But in the same magazine in a different Dolt advertisement the holsters are named Doltster.
Bill discovers his mistake and puts out another Summit Magazine Dolt advertisement, and puts the word DOLTSTER in capital letters. Only one more advertisement for the Dolt hammer holsters was shown in Summit Magazine May issue and then the holsters were not advertised again.
Sometime late 1967/ early 1968(?) Dolt modifies the Doltsters widening the slots on the belt plates and using bigger rivets and aluminum washers.
So while Dolt was around, all the Dolt hammer holsters have been historically colorful, but then these white Dolt holsters surfaced. These white holsters are stamped with a large Dolt piton logo, but have no model letter stamp, and have no “USA” stamp. They are constructed with steel rivets and zinc-plated steel washers, and the nylon is medium thick between Dolts original holster thicknesses. The hammer holder tube is short. I know that after Bill had passed December 1971, the Dolt Co. still created items for a few more years. I see in the Summit magazines that the Nutcracker was sold through 1975. Bashies and Bolt Hangers through 1973. Besides the sewn goods under the new Dolt logo.
Question for Don (?): Did the Dolt Co also produce these white hammer holsters 1972 - 1974?
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Mar 29, 2015 - 08:01pm PT
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Thank you, Marty!!!!!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 31, 2015 - 01:37pm PT
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Yes, Marty, all us old "hammers" appreciate your efforts and your sharing.
You qualify for a "Dolt Cheer," a la Country Joe McDonald & his "Fish Cheer."
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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This Doltster just popped up on ebay. This is what I refer to as the late 1967/early 1968 model. It has the patent number stamp but yet still has brass rivet washers. Notice also that the Dolt logo stamp is smaller and the belt clip slots are wider. This Doltster is stamped letter "W" which should be color brown but it is red. Not sure why Dolt didn't follow his Doltster color chart, but this Doltster is another example which shows the colors went random early in the life of the nylon Doltsters.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jun 21, 2015 - 04:38pm PT
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Art Christiansen visited a few days ago bringing more fun donations to the museum. We got into the conversation about his black Dolt holster which is from 1966, and then he mentioned that he may still have the piton that was hanging off if it when he purchased it. I was like....."WHAT!" "What was that?" I suddenly heard the gentle sound of harp music and then the room got brighter. Art repeated the statement, when he purchased his Dolt Holster, tied to it was a small piton shape piece of plastic with the word "DOLT" on it. This dates the plastic piton logo hang tag to 1966, the year Dolt announced that he was back in business. Maybe it was a promo item, or a way Dolt got his customers to further appreciate the quality of a Dolt product. Products today have hang tags on them but they are nothing compared to what Dolt was doing. Dolt applied his mastery detail in not just the product, but in how the hang tags looked being hand tied to the product and his actual hand signed signature being on each item.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 23, 2015 - 12:52pm PT
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A DoltJack is more like a RURP with a longer tail:
(Marty Karabin photo)
Yours could be a DoltBit, though. See Marty's reply on mountainproject.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 25, 2015 - 06:55am PT
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Wow that's a neat stash!
How did you come by it?
I have to look at my iron more closely.
the climbing air pump of the fish bowl, that is the Gunks
Rock&Snow The. Climbing Store,
Pre-fire
had A huge pile of stuff-but. . .
I think it all burned up.
Roots, that is an amazing $$ amount,2,225.00 us $!! For fifteen Dolt nuts, a hook and some POS bolts?! Man . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... . . . . . . . V V V V V V V
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Would Bill “Dolt” Feuerer be the first manufacturer on the planet to use magnesium alloy (33% lighter than aluminum and rather expensive) for a chock?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Commercially, I would say that the answer is a resounding "Yes".
I have not heard of anyone else using that material in prototypes either.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Thank you Steve! On my side, I have never heard of anyone in Great Britain using magnesium alloy in the very early artificial chockstones.
Ray Jardine made a prototype Friend #4 with came lobes made of magnesium alloy, but it was around seven years later than Bill Feuerer.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jul 12, 2015 - 10:47pm PT
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Dolt chocks and nuts
The center Dolt advertisement is from Summit Magazine October 1968. A few Dolt items are still unknown like the “Gumchock” and “Thinchocks.” Also in another Dolt Summit magazine advertisement Dolt mentions his Cablechock Series being the wired Nuggetchock, wired Saddlechock and wired Bellchock. In this Dolt nuts list the Cablechock listing is in addition to the Nuggetchock, Saddlechock and Bellchock listings. So maybe the cablechock itself is a unknown Dolt chock, or maybe it is a trademark reference to his cabled products?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jul 13, 2015 - 05:28am PT
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Bravo Marty, bravissimo! What a fascinating work!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jul 13, 2015 - 09:34am PT
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Is it true Stephane, that you and Marty are going to trade houses and collections for a month? Marty to the beautiful island of Corsica and Stephane desert bound.
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Ryan Evans
climber
Mammoth Lakes
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Jul 13, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
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I am almost positive that there is a dolt bashy nut in the corner before the Salathe Wall pitch leading up to the Salathe Roof. I feel like I'v seen one of the aluminum "T's" bashed in to a route as well. Anyone got a picture of fixed Dolt gear?? Maybe label the route the picture is taken??
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Oct 25, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
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Hey Marty,
Thought you might get a kick out of this if you haven't already seen it before:
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Nov 19, 2016 - 10:14am PT
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LilaBiene.......very awesome!
On October 15 the Arizona Hiking Shack organized a community fun day at the store which included a big sale, outdoor gear swap, Tips and Tricks seminar by Randy Propster from Backpacker Magazine, food, etc. So Jaime Gangi insisted that the Phoenix Rock Gym be present at the gear swap so I was roped in to getting a bunch of stuff together to swap. No problem, and our booth space was styling and in the shade! A few other people set up tables and the Arizona Mountaineering Club also set up a booth and had a few things for sale from Phoenix local Wally Vegors.
I noticed a small red bag on the booth table which was selling for only $15. When I poured it out the first thing I saw was a Dolt Step-On hanger. It is Wally’s small bolt kit from 1959. Also there are a few Gerry “Pop-Top” hangers and a aluminum hand drill. Wally had a larger bolt kit for sale as well and when I poured that out there was a second Dolt Step-On hanger sitting there. One has a 1/4 bolt hole and the other 3/8. Other hangers are thin Leeper and Doug Black ring rap hanger c1964. I love the square head steel bolts. Both of these bolt kits belong in a museum!
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Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
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Nov 21, 2016 - 06:43pm PT
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Remembering Ken McNutt
I didn't know that he passed until recently.
Used to boulder with him.
At the end of the evening session at Stoney Point he would bring back a box of beer and cocktails and we would point our car head lamps on Rock 1 and continue doing problems until whenever.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Nov 22, 2016 - 09:49pm PT
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WOW! Cool stuff, Marty! Thanks so much for sharing. :)
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Hey Marty, just a note to say how much I appreciate you sharing -- it's wonderful to be able to read and learn more every time I return to this thread.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2017 - 12:08pm PT
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A little late, but for what it's worth, yes, Dolt did produce those white holsters - I still have one. Also, the Dolt Company did not produce any hardware in any form after Bill's death. We did, however, resurrect some of his old unforged piton blanks into the "Nutcracker" chock removal tools.
To remind you: After Bill's intestate death his commercial estate was purchased at auction by West Ridge - my retail store in West LA. A few years later, West Ridge sold its rights to the Dolt name and logo to my ex-West Ridge partner, Tom Limp. He then began producing Dolt softgoods - rucksacks and duffels with a Dolt label of his own design. I later convinced him to use the label originated by Bill in all his late Summit advertising.
As to the mention of Ken McNutt, he died of cancer in 1995. A great friend, super mountaineer. He wrote a story of our 1970 ascent (the 5th of my 6 ascents) of the Leaning Tower that appears in some obscure thread. Look it up.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jan 10, 2017 - 05:41pm PT
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Don, I remember Ken talking about doing the Tower with you. Your organizational abilities had a big influence on him. I don't remember if it was his term or yours, probably yours, but he called it 'housekeeping'. It was all about the importance of keeping the gear organized as you go. I have not forgotten! That may have also been when he told me of how you kept your hero loops stacked on top in each other in your knicker pocket for fast retrieval. Those were the days.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jan 11, 2017 - 04:30am PT
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Don - Thanks for getting back on the white Dolt holsters. So all of the advertisements for Dolt gear after his death was left over surplus. I came across another advertisement in 1977 time that showed Dolt hardware was still being sold. For a while there I was under the impression that you were creating the items and maybe using the Dolt stamps I have to stamp them (since the stamps were originally yours). Cool so Bill Dolt made all of the Dolt hardware, and only a few fabric items. A chalk bag, gear slings, and patch with the piton style dolt fabric patch.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Just another causal day strolling through the eBay auction listings and suddenly BAM....there it was! I could not believe what I was seeing and I had to take a closer look at it. The auction did not finalize for another three days and I must have chewed off all of my fingernails awaiting my final attack of obtaining the auction lot. Even though I won the lot I continued to chew those fingernails until yesterday when the box was delivered to my house. As I opened the shipping box the room suddenly became brighter and harp music filled the air.....and there it was!
Never used near mint condition medium brown Dolt 1958 hammer holster. Yes the first hammer holster Dolt created which sports a very small piton leather stamp. It has two water marks on it and besides that, it is in perfect condition. The four rivets and washers on the back appear to be copper. I contacted the seller and he said the auction items came from a old house estate sale in Arcadia California. The seller knew the items were related to rock climbing but did not know anything about their history. Other climbing gear gems in the auction included many other mint condition pieces from the 1950s.
Other items in the auction all mint condition: 1958 Chouinard Alcoa carabiner first generation (no "Chouinard" word), Holubar 1950s hammer, Stubai 1950s ice axe, Fritsch & Cie 3/4" ring angle piton that is welded at the ring and at the tip, Stubai 1" ring angle piton, Three 1950s CCB pitons ( 1 spoon), webbing and the Dolt 1958 hammer holster.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Feb 27, 2018 - 05:07pm PT
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A pair of Dolt Blue Boots with white shoe laces just came up on ebay.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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As I think I mentioned before, when Don Lauria and I did the 8th Ascent of the Nose, Dolt gave us prototypes of his new pitons to test out on that climb. After we finished the climb, we gave him our feedback on his design and the 4 four pitons that we had used on the climb. He gold-plated those four and gave one each to me and Don and kept two for himself. A few years ago, some of us went through Don's gear, and we could not find his gold-plated piton. Recently, mine reappeared during my recent move, so I've take a picture of it. The gold plating is flaking off (exfoliation?), but it's unique in all the world!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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I didn't realize I had a "Doltster" until I revisited this thread a few minutes ago and thought to check it! I just used it a couple of weeks ago on a FA out in the high desert of So. Cal. It is hard to see the logo and U.S. patent stamps but they are there.
I may have posted this photo before but....
Here (on the "wall of cool climbing gear") are various Dolt nuts and a highly polished keyhole hanger, a Royal Robbins RURP (found at the base of the W. Face of El Cap),2 Layton Kor pitons (found on one or more desert towers in the S.W.),a #2 Crack-n-up ( useful during the second or third clean ascent of the W. Face of the Sentinal), a Camp engraved Outdoor Retailer booty knifeblade (year 2000) and a Pat Nay belay device.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nice Dave! Definitely groovin' on the Gruvy Chock (above Pat's belay device) as it is my favorite Dolt nut.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Steve - Further research shows that the nut with a post in the middle is called a Hipchock. The bottom of the Gruvychock looks like the letter "H" (or "I"). Gary Neptune shows a Gruvychock and a Hipchock.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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That's interesting since I recall it being called a Gruvy Nut when I bought mine at the Summit Hut in the early 70s. Hip is kinda like Gruvy I guess.
My first one had a brushed finish and I have since acquired a second one with the polished finish that seems more typical. I bet Bill messed around with this particular style of nut much more than the others. The odd thing is that he didn't taper the largest face of the nut to get a third attitude as I recall. I wonder if he ever got around to it.
I carried mine for quite a while but fortunately it didn't get dinged up.
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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How did Dolt get his nickname? Jus curious.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Don- read the third post on this thread.
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Thanks Steve. I missed that the first time around.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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There is a lot to ponder in this thread.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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May 28, 2018 - 11:59am PT
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I was looking through my Bridwell file yesterday, and a photo of Dolt pitons that the Yosemite Museum has, fell out of it. Looking closer at the photo I realized that the Paula Crenshaw Dolt piton is exact to what the Yosemite Museum has. The cuts are exactly the same even the teardrop droop cut under the piton eye is the same. I love this tiny piton!
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Steve, it's my favorite nut, too. I use it every time I climb @ Seneca. :)
I have a recording of Mark Powell telling me how Dolt got his nickname from back in 2012. Will try to figure out how to edit the recording so it can be shared.
Thanks to everyone for sharing -- it's a huge gift to me.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Dolt Blue Boots from Pamela Phillips. Near absolute mint condition except for one top stitch easy glue repair being needed. Blue laces are original to the shoes.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Heres two more items from Bills late 1950s rack. The ice peg is probably a Werk Fulpmes Ralling piton but is also stamped 'DOLT"
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Aug 10, 2018 - 08:25am PT
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.....you're killing me Marty!
Seriously though, congrats on your BIG score and a big thanks to Chessler for donating DOLT's rack!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 10, 2018 - 06:41pm PT
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Roots - Michael Chessler was incredibly generous in donating items to the museum, but as far as the Dolt items go he still has many pieces. I approached Michael with my Jesus hands open and he filled those hands without me paying one penny. Absolutely Incredible THANK YOU Michael!!! But he still has the other half of Dolts original rack and a set of polished Dolt items that Lauria has been searching for since Dolts death. So Michael still has 15 Dolt items that really should be in a museum and even though he gifted me very very graciously.....I left his house in tears. I know that Dolts spirit had to have led me to this opportunity, and even with all of the spiritual energy I could gather, I was not able to get the entirety of the items for the museum. I seriously drove away from the house in tears.
My friend Robert calmed me down stating that the Karabin Museums main driving force was proving the existence of the missing Dolt polished items of which I was presently holding in my hands and was basically in shock. So the question is placed forward of: if I did land the polished Dolt items, would the Karabin museum continue? In the movies, if Tomb Raider girl held onto Pandoras box instead of putting it back, there would be no more adventures for her because that item was her main drive. All other adventures would become lesser.
So my first thought in this situation is Roots - because it may take a few extra pennies to eventually land this gear if it even surfaces, and this gear should totally be in a museum! I really enjoyed my visit with Michael and I plan on visiting him again next summer. But the only way I will be able to obtain the remainder of the Dolt items is through my open hands partnered with Michaels generously. Michael sees the Dolt items as adding to his book company's strength which I can understand. In this case my Jesus hands really came through in a HUGE way as I still came home with over a dozen Dolt items new to what I already have. INCREDIBLE!!! On top of that another 75+ other historic fantastic non Dolt pieces Michael donated to the Karabin Museum! INCREDIBLE!!!
Once again...Big THANKS to Michael Chessler!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 10, 2018 - 07:03pm PT
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I found this Dolt sign hanging in Michael Chesslers shop. Magnetic, 18" almost mint condition. Beautiful piece which Michael still has. I am honored to be the one documenting the item.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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Aug 10, 2018 - 11:33pm PT
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In this case my Jesus hands really came through in a HUGE way as I still came home with over a dozen Dolt items
Marty, don't forget, Michael gave you those items, not Jesus. It was his energy and gift; and came from him alone.
Glad you made the acquisition.
Arne
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 11, 2018 - 05:44pm PT
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ionlyski - thanks for the Props!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 16, 2018 - 08:45pm PT
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Dolt Bashchock #13 and #14 converted both to #7. The difference in size is 1/32"
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 25, 2018 - 03:58pm PT
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These two photos are for Don Lauria specifically. I am copying this to the Marty Message Supertopo thread as well.
When I first started collecting gear I fell in love with the Dolt story of his life and his whimsical ways. My collection foundation was all about Bill Feurer - the Dolt. Don Lauria supplied me with some of Dolts personal items and to this day they are my greatest treasures. But what was out there to find was a mint condition Dolt piton collection that went missing that Don continually talked about with me. As time went on I found many many awesome non-Dolt gear treasures, but yet Dolt products was the main items on my mind continuously, even to this day.
In 2009 when I broke my leg I created the Supertopo “Marty Karabin’s Message To All Climbers” thread, where my life was falling apart and at the same time I met God. God insisted for me to give the museum away and that is how I will become balanced once again. I asked many people to take the museum and everybody thought I was crazy. I had nobody to give the museum to as God insisted….so I gave it to God. God said I did well, and from then on I was just the librarian while God did the work managing the museum. Please hear me out.
Next thing I know gear was being donated to the museum from everywhere, and the gear was one amazing treasure after another, and it is still escalating greater and greater every day. At the same time it is not over toppling me, and cataloging the museum items as they come it is actually easy for me to accomplish. I am not spending time to search and search and be greedy that I must have everything, in fact, I am not looking for anything, just keeping up with what God is delivering. But yet the foundation is still Dolt products.
A few post previous to this one on the Dolt Stories Supertopo thread I mention my recent visit with Michael Chessler, where I went to check out his historic book business world, and he mentioned he has climbing gear that he could use help identifying. As it turns out he has lots of climbing gear, and the lots he doesn’t even remember where it all came from. It was a great visit and Michael and I totally connected. Within Michaels pile of gear was a box of Dolt products, and the products included Dolts personal 1950s rack and a set of mint condition polished Dolt pitons…..yes the historic missing set, 11 of the 12 pitons, missing is the Fan Blade. I couldn’t believe what I was holding.
On the last day of my visit with Michael I put of pile of gear on Michaels table that I was interested in and Michael was so generous donating over 100 items to the museum…..for free. Incredible generosity!!! Some of the items were pitons from Dolts original 1950s rack. I was in awe. But when it came to the mint condition Dolt piton set Michael asked me which piton was the least valuable, and that one I will give to you. The energy right then suddenly shifted, and I was well aware of it. It was like everything Michael just gave me didn’t matter. The only thing that mattered was the Dolt piton set. Michael and I talked for a while about it so he let me trade the least desired item for the third best item, in my opinion. But still that was not enough for my thoughts. It felt as though I was completely cheated, and my emotions while Michael was not around, was trying to contain my tears.
I called my friend Robert asking for his help. I was not sure what was going on with me. Next paragraph is from a previous post above in the Dolt thread…..
“My friend Robert calmed me down stating that the Karabin Museums main driving force was proving the existence of the missing Dolt polished items of which I was presently holding in my hands and was basically in shock. So the question is placed forward of: if I did land the polished Dolt items, would the Karabin museum continue? In the movies, if Tomb Raider girl held onto Pandoras box instead of putting it back, there would be no more adventures for her because that item was her main drive. All other adventures would become lesser.”
The following few days was the Outdoor Retailers show where I was with my friend Neo. I totally love the OR show, but at this show I commented to Neo that there is nothing in this entire building that is greater than the gifts Michael had already gave me. The show became just the show, and my “A” game was not present….I still had lots of fun, however, it was apparent to me that the recent Dolt find took away my intense interest in all other products.
Two days ago I was catching up with my spiritual studies which I keep up with Guru Matt Kahn, who has many YouTube video teachings. Every YouTube segment of Matt Kahn is exquisite high level teachings. I love them all! On Matts most recent teaching he explains the power that drives and gives energy to a persons foundation. I felt like this was a total coincidence since I just, and still am, experiencing this situation. Matt explains that if the item the foundation is driving from is obtained or realized, this could lead to the diminishing of the driving energy, which creates a break in “purpose” and can lead to catastrophe to that person. Matt continues to explain that in many cases God steps in and purposely denies the item to be obtained, so that life will remain with “purpose.”
In a good way to me it shows that God wants my museum to continue, otherwise, if the museum no longer made sense because the driving energy was stopped, hopefully I have some other thing that holds my interest or I will no longer want to exist because of loss of “purpose.” It is interesting because William “Dolt” Feurer had this same driving energy, but his was surrounded with pride, and once realization came to full view, he may of had nothing else to latch onto as he lost “purpose” and he took his life in 1971.
Matt Kahn continues on to say that once the understanding is fully in place, the item that one most seeks will be allowed, but that is only through God allowing it. So I still have a chance of obtaining the Dolt piton set, but that will only happen when I for sure have a change in foundation, which continues “purpose.” I know that Harding mentioned that Dolt would quote the Bible a lot during the Nose Route FA, but when Dolt fell into his realization, he didn’t seem to have a strong connection to the divine. I know I have a very strong connection to the divine, but yet I still fell into the same trap.
Lots of Love and big PROPS to God for denying the deal, which keeps the Karabin Museum going strong!!!
Big PROPS to Michael Chessler…..for everything!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 25, 2018 - 05:20pm PT
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Marty, that was a lovely post. Thank you for being you n working for the benefit of the world of climbers.
Your spirit has much in common with the late Tom Frost, if I may say so without embarrassing you.
And your lack of inhibition recalls the Dolt, as well, at least for me.
Thinking of Gollum, not surprisingly.
"My Precioussss!"
Peace, MFM
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 25, 2018 - 06:25pm PT
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Your spirit has much in common with the late Tom Frost, if I may say so without embarrassing you.
mouse from merced - No embarrassment at all. Thanks for the honor!
Next summer I plan on visiting with Michael Chessler again. At that time I can hold those Dolt pitons without worry and laugh and comment "My Precious"
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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More Dolt treasures just arrived in the Karabin Museum.
I feel like Bill is personally sending these items to me from the other side.
Its crazy how many Dolt items have surfaced this year alone.
Thank you Ken Macke!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2018 - 08:40am PT
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Marty,
My question is: Where did Chessler get the set? R.J. Secor(RIP) never responded to my inquiries back in the 70s when he was seen displaying the set at Stoney Point.
Thanks for the photos.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Don, I am glad you brought up the "origin" of Chessler's Dolt set! If I remember correctly..................................
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Don - The reason I posted this to you was to show that your story was correct about the missing polished Dolt piton set. With so many of our great golden era heroes passing away these days I felt the need to inform you to bring closer to the piton set story, since you are getting up there in the years as well. I did not post this so you will now attack Michael in any way since Michael just so happened to end up with the Dolt set.
I personally spent 3 days with Michael and found him to be a great man. I REALLY enjoyed my visit and I give him my hugest respect. I now have a really great friend which I will be hanging out with again next summer. Michael’s deep passion is in the mountaineering and climbing books and over time he has traded a lot of stuff with many great climbers ending up with a rather large pile of gear that he kept throwing to the side since gear was not his interest, other than signed pieces or Hillary ice axes. He honestly really could not remember where any of this gear came from, possibly through trades from people for books, and or legitimately buying out estates from climbers that have died to obtain the books where in the lot, gear was also present. I see this on ebay all of the time as so may precious treasures are being sold through estate liquidation companies.
My thoughts on the set was that somehow he ended up with RJ Secor’s rack and thank God that he did which preserved these items for all to enjoy in museum form. If it wasn’t for Michael, all of these items would have been lost to the world. The original Dolt rack probably came through the RJ situation as well. To me this proves RJ was the thief of the Dolt shop all along, which is sad since RJ was a respected climber.
Even Dolt from the other side is telling me that he has Michaels back as well. RJ is your target of frustration in this story. Michael is a total hero in my history book! Don, or can somebody mention to Audrey that I need to get in contact with her. I have a few messages from Dolt that Dolt recently sent to me wanting to give to her.
for Audrey - karabin714(at)gmail.com
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Marty,
Blessings of light to you on your path.
Call mouse, Brian, he is touch with Audrey
mfm's # (209)947-5559
I so value my one Dolt pin And your passion for the presevation is a fantastic gift to climbers.
I will try to make contact with a potential source, though, the "Gunks Jessi hoard may have been it.? you & Roots hit that I hope?
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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I have emailed Audrey to revisit this thread...
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase and BooDawg - Thank you so much for forwarding the message to Audrey. She will very much love the message I have for her, and how I received the message will be worth her many tears.
Mouse actually gets the greatest credit and Blessings for the many tears I have been within for the last two weeks.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 26, 2018 - 08:20pm PT
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I will be stepping into the shoes of the Dolt..............
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 28, 2018 - 08:26pm PT
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Big PROPS to Ashby!!!
This is a older photo of the Dolt hangers I have in the museum and there are a few not showing on this photo yet. But Ashby just came through adding two of the missing Dolt hangers. I am so psyched to finally have these two hangers for the museum!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 28, 2018 - 08:32pm PT
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Big PROPS to Ashby!!!
Wow this item is a total gem!
Dolt was first to make nuts out of magnesium and Ashby just donated this piece to the museum!
Lopchock 88. Amazing how light it is!
A fantastic addition to the museum for sure! Ashby wow.......just amazing!
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Nov 14, 2018 - 08:06am PT
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Amazing!
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 14, 2018 - 02:19pm PT
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Does anyone have a photo of a Dolt Crud Bit, which is supposedly a smaller version of the Rurp?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 14, 2018 - 04:46pm PT
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The DOLT BIT: dead centerThe beautiful thing about Marty's obsessive nature is that everything he has he has made a note of.
"Once in a while you get shown the light
In the strangest of places if you look at it right"
As always Thanks again Marty.
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Nov 14, 2018 - 07:20pm PT
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That collection of Dolt equipment is simply breathtaking.
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Jamesthomsen
Social climber
Mammoth Lakes, California
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Nov 15, 2018 - 09:59am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jan 24, 2019 - 11:10am PT
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DOLT SHOW REVIEW
First of all a huge thanks to my show helpers Stephie Ruiz and Cat Ruiz, for assisting me in showing William “Dolt” Feuerer’s life in its entirety. This was a Arizona Mountaineering Club meeting night presentation which was shown on the big stage at the Granite Reef Senior Center in Scottsdale AZ. Overall in the 1 1/2 hour live presentation, 190 photos were shown and talked about, which gave the audience of 80+ people a historical view of the amazing life of Bill Feuerer, and what was possibly going on in his mind throughout his life. 30 years of my personal Dolt research, all of the Supertopo Forum threads on the Dolt, Summit magazine Dolt advertisements, and research from LilaBiene was all used to create the timeline events that occurred in Bills life.
Stephie was in charge of the slide projector and occasionally was on stage as Yvon Chouinard and for other stage stuff. Cat was at the podium in charge of speaking Dolt history notes, speaking Dolt poetry, and was on stage as Tom Frost and Don Lauria. I was Bill Dolt telling and reliving my life story. It was a honor for me to be able to share with a audience this story of the Dolt that I believe is the “greatest love story in climbing history.”
The show starts off with me introducing myself, then I summons Bill to tell his story through me. I eventually put on Bills black climbing hat where I became Bill, and then the presentation and fun began. I am showing a few photos on this post to give you an idea of how the Dolt show was put together. Within the photo captions the story continues…..
Throughout the showing of the Totem Pole, Dolts time on Cathedral Rock, and Dolts Nose Route experience, in the show it was mentioned many times how Dolt was quoting the Bible more and more as he became uneasy with the climbing he was doing. Basically terrified at times and eventually he gave up on completing the Nose Route first ascent. Dolt continued to create more pitons and bolts for the Nose Route to be completed. Dolt also began his climbing company named DOLT. Yvon Chouinard is new on the scene and Tom Frost as well who become friends with the Dolt. They enjoy time together climbing in Tahquitz. Dolt likes Yvon’s friendship as they both share in creating climbing gear, and Dolt advertises and sells Chouinard gear through the Dolt Hut.
Dolt in frustration works to understand what is now occurring with his friendship with Yvon and Tom. For the show the pictures were interrupted as the house lights went on and Cat and Steph came up on stage to show the friendship dynamics to the audience.
I think the final straw with Dolts friendship with Yvon, is shown in the Chouinard “firsts list.” Throughout the late 1950s and early 1960s Dolt was selling all of the items that Chouinard had produced. Yvon now lists that the Chouinard ringless angle pitons were made 1957/1958 before Dolts ringless angle pitons (which were used on the Nose FA). Both of them didn’t know that Norton Smith had created the first ringless angle pitons in 1950/1951, and were positioning for the first ringless angle piton credit. Chouinard ringless angles were introduced in early 1961.
During 1962/1963 time Yvon went into the army and Chouinard business slowed to almost a halt. Dolt decided to put his time into his job at McDonald Douglas so Dolt announced he was out of the climbing gear business. In 1964 time Yvon and Tom make the headlines completing the FA of the North American Wall, and Yvon FA of the Muir Wall. So Yvon and Tom are climbing more and more huge walls and risking their lives etc to do it. I feel that these amazing ascents played a little on Dolts consciousness since Dolt didn’t complete the Nose FA. And now the Chouinard climbing company is Yvon and Tom together. I feel that at this time dolt goes into vendetta mode to outdo the Chouinard company. Now Dolt becomes the “Master Craftsman to Mountaineers.” All Dolt gear becomes works of art as true passion is put into everything Dolt creates.
At this point in the Dolt Show the house lights were turned back on and the audience has just seen a few hundred Dolt products within photos. It is Christmas time 1971. The stage turns into a Christmas party scene and a telephone conversation between Don Lauria and the Dolt takes place. Possibly the last words the Dolt has spoken before he committed suicide Christmas time 1971. Cat returns to the podium and shows the two Summit magazine ads stating the Dolt is dead, in Memoriam to the Dolt, by Don Lauria.
Marty’s Philosophy on Dolts death:
 Dolt wanted to be recognized as a mountaineer, but at the same time the climbing scared him.
The main drive for getting back into business making climbing gear was to show up Yvon and Tom, but in the end the realization hit Dolt that Yvon and Tom were never in competition with the Dolt. Dolt possibly looked around his shop and didn’t even know what his Dolt gear was for, once the vendetta mode was removed.
Dolt created everything by himself. “I did everything for others to show others how creative I was…..maybe I should have let the others more into my life. That way I could share the creation process, over just showing the final polished product. Everything I created was a gift for somebody to enjoy.”
Tired of doing both but couldn’t decide on what was better. Going with creating Dolt products full time, or just concentrating on McDonald Douglas job and no more Dolt.
Dolts girlfriend Ann recently moved to Alaska.
“Maybe if I didn’t name myself as the Dolt, I would not have worried about being….perfect. I hid from my silly mistakes to show others how perfect I can be….just look at my creations and you will see the perfection!!!”
And what perfection do I have now?
I did everything for everybody and now….
…..I find myself still alone.
……Was I even loved?”
Besides life’s everyday pressures, imagine all of these big things apexing in the Dolts mind all at the exact same time. Once again I turned out the stage house lights, and then sat on a chair fiddling with my Dolt hat while staring at the audience. Then when I had total silence in the room I dropped my hat to the floor turning the Dolt - back to Marty again. Cat began telling the audience of how Ann in Alaska had a child which Dolt never knew about. The show ends with 5 photos accompanied with poetry captions written by LilaBiene from Supertopo forum “ In memory of Bill “Dolt” Feuerer”. The poetry speaks of how much the Dolt is still Loved, to this day!
Again I give a huge THANKS to Stephie Ruiz and Cat Ruiz for assisting me in putting together this awesome Dolt Show. For the three of us the message of the show was tough. The script was broken into three sections; early climbing, later 1960s Dolt products, and end section. The end section was hard to go through without tearing up every time we rehearsed it. I thank everybody who shared in the Supertopo forum posts for preserving great history for future climbers to ponder and enjoy. This Dolt Show gave me the opportunity to fully place myself into Dolts world, and being the one to share the story of his life…… was a great honor!
A huge THANKS also goes out to Jonah Phung for capturing the Dolt Show on film and creating a movie.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 24, 2019 - 11:51am PT
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Guess I was pretty oblivious to all this going on in the late 50s and early 60s, not being a Californian. Yvon would mention Bill occasionally, but in more of a playful, not derogatory manner. Thanks for your excellent post!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jan 24, 2019 - 11:58am PT
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Gneiss work & great story Marty. Thanks for sharing it.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Jan 24, 2019 - 12:08pm PT
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Great Marty!!!!
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Jan 24, 2019 - 12:32pm PT
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Wow Marty!
....wondered why you haven't been around here much.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 24, 2019 - 07:26pm PT
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Beautiful memoriam, Marty.
I appreciate your thoughts on this complex man, the work it took to set up the presentation, and your posting all this for our benefit.
mfm
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nutstory
Trad climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jan 25, 2019 - 01:47am PT
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Thank you Marty for sharing the result of your awesome research on Dolt with us.
Bravo, bravissimo, and... hats off ;-)
Stéphane
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CMI gearguy
Trad climber
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Jan 26, 2019 - 08:25am PT
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Great stuff Marty! Your incredible effort and time spent is really appreciated!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 30, 2019 - 11:03pm PT
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HEAR HEAR HEAR
three cheers
for the telling and the history and the Lore
Only one as special as Marty K could give so much life\
to the remembrance of Bill Dolt; William "Dolt" Feuerer !
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Jan 30, 2019 - 11:35pm PT
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That was amazing Marty. I hope that was captured for posterity. thanks for the great recap.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jan 31, 2019 - 10:22am PT
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Thanks everybody for the positive responses to the Dolt Show review! I created the Dolt Show by lining up by date every piece of information I could find on Bills life, and taking a serious look at what he was possibly thinking as life changes, fair or unfair, were presented to Bill throughout his life. I know in the show at times there was harshness toward Yvon Chouinard and how Yvon fit within Bills history. I want to state that Yvon overall didn’t do anything wrong toward Bill. It was just how Bills morals internalized things within himself that Bill carried throughout till Christmas 1971. This whole world is created by the human population refining and bettering older products over and over. So basically nobody is recreating the wheel….necessarily….but bettering the overall wheel design. So if Yvon really did steal Bills bong piton design, then Bill stole the earlier bong idea from LONGware. Bills company logo was created from LONGwares small piton, so Bill was very aware of LONGware products from the early 1957 start.
I know in the history that Tom Frost occasionally visited Bill in Bills shop and they were still friends even though Tom was working with Chouinard. I know in the history that Chouinard after 1964 didn’t talk to Bill at all. I know in 1975 when Tom left the Chouinard company, Yvon and Tom did not speak to each other for over 40+ years. It is unfortunate that big egos appear to build indestructible walls between each other, and great friendships become diminished.
I was only a baby during the Yosemite golden era days but somehow God has placed me in this climbing gear museum world and I am presenting the history as it comes forward to me. I still feel that Bill from the other side of the veil is helping me gather his gear to preserve his name. I have no doubt of this! I totally love the history of Yvon Chouinard and have a big place in my heart for Yvon. And that Tom Frost guy, what can I say…..what a beautiful man!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 31, 2019 - 10:44am PT
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Wow.
Wow wow wow.
Great history, Marty. Thanks!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 31, 2019 - 01:44pm PT
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hey there say, a bump... from help of zbrown...
though, i am still looking for audrey's first...
it needs to be seen, fresh, :)
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