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Patrick Sawyer
climber
I do not know, humans are tiring
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 18, 2017 - 02:37am PT
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I am planning on attending a Sawyer Family Reunion July 28 (2018) in Everett, Washington (half of Washington is full of my relatives, hah hah). I hope I can save enough money to fly there (no direct flights from Dublin to Seattle, but Aer Lingus does fly to San Francisco direct - Jennie and I did that Christmas 2008) as well have some extra dosh for others things, like climbing Rainier.
I was wondering what is a good first-time climb on Rainier. And I would imagine July is quite busy on the mountain. I have not been on snow or ice since 1985 (Lee Vining ice and the three Mexican volcanoes, solo, but then they are quite straight forward climbs, though of course no mountain is to be underestimated).
When I was 14 my late brother Mac and I climbed Mt Olympus (via Blue Glacier and Snow Dome) in 1970, when I was 15 Mac and I climbed Shasta,
When I was 16, my high school climbing buddies, Steve Fish (17), Gordon Lane (16) and I climbed the Price Glacier on Mt Shuksan.
Add North Palisade by the V-Notch, Mt Dana (Dana Couloir), Mt Sill, Polemonium Peak (U-Notch traverse from North Pal), a failed attempt (storm) on Mendel Couloir, and loads of others in the Sierra, Valley and Meadows. I can still lead 5.11, with a struggle, probably pulling on gear.
So I am no noob, just very rusty.
I had to sell a lot of gear the summer of 2016 to pay UCD Veterinary Hospital to save Betty's leg. But I still have my Footfangs, rope and an ice axe. Ice tools are gone. I have winter clothes and bag. No tents, I had to sell those. And I do have good rock rack, not that it would be of use so much on Rainier.
And I would love to climb at Washington Pass (Liberty Bell calls), and even Town Wall and Leavenworth, but I will probably not have time (maybe though, Liberty Bell perhaps, Beckey Route?). Rainier will do me, it would be my priority.
And advice and suggestions? Thanks, as I appreciate it.
Cheers
Patrick
NB And I know, I am gonna die, just not yet though.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nov 18, 2017 - 03:56am PT
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NB And I know, I am gonna die, just not yet though.
Never done anything in the PNW, so have no info. Like your spirit; you can hang. Attempted the Dana coulior but my friends crampons would not stay on his boots. Pissed me off big time that he did not sort things out before the trip. Foot fangs? Classic. Good luck and have fun.
Always wanted to do Olympus but never found the time.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Nov 18, 2017 - 06:57am PT
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In my experience in that part of the world it all depends on the weather. I was warned not to try the mountain when it had a circular cloud around it but tried anyway. Spent the night in the hut and then had to descend with a shirt wrapped around my face as the wind was blowing nasty ice crystals everywhere. Lower down we got drenched with rain. I've always wanted to go back though. The view looking out over green velvet forest with snow covered volcanos sticking up here and there is spectacular.
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gunsmoke
Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
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Nov 18, 2017 - 07:40am PT
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There are two standard routes, both of which are maintained by guiding services, Disappointment Cleaver that starts from the Visitors Center at Paradise, and the Emmons-Winthrop Glacier. They are comparable in difficulty and exposure. The Emmons is more direct, but Disappointment Cleaver is perhaps more classic and interesting.
July is your target month. Early season is better snow conditions with fewer open crevasses. However, catching a weather window is hard. Rainier takes a lot of moisture from the jet stream until about the first of July, and often creates is own storms in early season which can be nasty. But by August the crevasses are greatly lengthening which causes the routes to traverse excessively. Also, things like the Cleaver of Disappointment Cleaver have much more loose, exposed rock.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 18, 2017 - 09:29am PT
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Forgit them n00bz upthread. Do the Kautz Glaciar. You won’t be in a conga line, the high camp is way cool, and you can spread it out over three days to increase yer acclimatisation. And while yer trudging along you can think of me skiing it. ;-)
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JLyons
Sport climber
Cali
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Nov 18, 2017 - 10:07am PT
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You don’t lead 5.11 if you’re pulling on gear
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Winter
climber
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Nov 18, 2017 - 10:33am PT
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If you and your partner are competent at glacier travel and crevasse rescue, Disappointment Cleaver and the Emmons are fairly straightforward. The guide services typically maintain the routes and the NPS publishes condition updates on its web site.
The Nisqually is not the standard route and is probably not viable in July. The Kautz is a good option for more experienced parties.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Nov 18, 2017 - 10:44am PT
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Tahoma Glacier is relatively straightforward and totally isolated in a gorgeous location. We didnt see any people for over a week. Lots of glissading goats however.
There's no dirty trench to follow however nor are there any ladders spanning slots. The brief bit of steep ice was easily done with a single tool. Easy climbing but you'll be on your own.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Nov 18, 2017 - 10:58am PT
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Just remember that if it's fogged in , it will not snow....If the fog is absent it will snow...
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2017 - 11:15am PT
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So far, thanks for the input and feedback.
You don’t lead 5.11 if you’re pulling on gear
That is true. Perhaps when I get back in shape I won't need to pull on gear. But thank you for your input on Rainier, Mr Lyons, it was invaluable.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 18, 2017 - 11:38am PT
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Have fun on Ranier, although I think something like the North Ridge of Mt.Stuart would be much more enjoyable and less susceptible to the vagaries of mountain weather.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 18, 2017 - 11:50am PT
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Here are some resources which collectively make for a pretty good picture of what weather is headed towards the NW at any given point in time. Taken together they can give you a good feel for exactly what's out in the Pacific all the way to Asia. It's particularly worth noting the jetstream forecast to see how strong it's going to be, if it's going to be sitting right on top of us, and if it's likely to be dragging along any bad weather with it if it is.
In general it's good to know how big your weather window is likely to be before heading out as, for all the people that get up and down Rainer and Hood safe, both have long histories of being pretty unforgiving to folks who've run into trouble while trying to sneak in a go with a 18-36 hour weather window and one storm after another lined up all the way to Japan.
Take note the 'Stormsurfing' site is for surfers, so you have to read through the surfing/wave aspects of what they put out - BUT - these folks carefully watch weather events across the NW Pacific as far out as Siberia and it is well worth paying close attention to what they are saying about incoming storms.
Intellicast Pacific Infrared Sat Loop
Stormsurfing - Pacific Storm Forecast
Stormsurfing - North Pacific Surface Pressure and Wind
Stormsurfing - North Pacific Jet Stream Wind and 250 mb Pressure
Intellicast - US Jetstream
National Center for Atmospheric Research - Forecasts
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Nov 18, 2017 - 11:53am PT
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Check the fogcast also...rj
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 18, 2017 - 11:53am PT
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he Kautz is a good option for more experienced parties.
I’ve guided total n00bs up (and down) the Kautz.
In July the Tahoma can have crevasse issues depending, of course,on the previous winter’s accumulation.
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Lituya
Mountain climber
WA
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Nov 18, 2017 - 12:43pm PT
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Patrick, I've climbed seven or eight routes on Rainier since the late 1970s. I can tell you there is some good route advice here, and some bad.
For example:
Tahoma Glacier. Great description by someone above. Big and lonely. Don't underestimate the lonely factor--especially when among the crevasses--there are lots on this route. Easy to get spooked. Three days minimum--but four or five is better. You will probably be by yourself--but not for sure.
Kautz Glacier is usually tight with few crevasse detours, but the chute (up to 40 degrees plus) usually gets very icy by July--or even late June nowadays. Also, you must pass beneath an ice cliff to access the chute. Roulette for about 15 minutes.
"Nisqually Glacier." Not sure where this advice came from as it's never been a "standard" route and is, in fact, rather technical and risky. The Icefall route is occasionally a cruise--maybe once every 20 years. Otherwise it's a maze of seracs and holes requiring screws and tools. The Icecliff side is rarely climbed.
Disappointment Cleaver. This is the primary guide route, and if you want company it;s probably the way to go. The slog to Camp Muir is boring. Be careful that other parties don;t knock rocks down on you below the cleaver itself. Many fatalities here.
Emmons Glacier. My favorite for scenery and beauty. You'll have a guide path--but large crevasses too. Take an extra half day and camp at Glacier Basin the first night if spots are available. Then camp at Emmons Flats 500" above Camp Sherman to save time on summit day.
Furher Finger. IMO, the easiest and quickest early season route e.g. before June 30. You'll probably have company--but not hordes. Skiers like this route too. Some crevasses on the upper Nisqually; usually manageable.
Liberty Ridge. A sandbag that seems to kill a lot of climbers. I'd avoid it given the outline you provided.
Other routes like Gibraltar Ledges (great winter route) or Success Cleaver are hit and miss. I would avoid.
A climb of Mount Baker is a good technical primer--and a climb of Mount Adams is a good physical prep.
Given the outline you provided, hope this helps.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2017 - 02:15pm PT
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I have been corrected and rightfully so, how I missed the misspelling… Rainier.
Some good advice here. I am still in the early planning stages. More thoughts, ideas and suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers, Paddy
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Nov 18, 2017 - 03:49pm PT
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Mt Adams is a perfectly good consolation prize. But I am sure you will score on Rainier.
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Nov 18, 2017 - 06:50pm PT
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Wow, for a forum that's Cali rock centric, you guys gave some good responses!
I've been on Rainier a half a dozen times and it's always special. On my latest trip a couple of months ago I went in from the southwest up the old Tahoma Creek drainage by the Nisqually entrance. That trailhead is at ~2,600'. Started low, meandered along that massive glacial creek, through primeval OG forest, then a few miles on the Wonderland trail before heading into alpine scrub and boulders, then snow slopes, moraine ridges and glaciers. Summit day was a fun 5k' grind up the Eastern Success Couloir. Fortunately, we didn't die in rockfall, evidence of which was all around us. Not a soul in sight the whole trip despite perfect summer weather, aside from day hikers near the trailhead.
A few other recollections dating back to the early '90's...
Emmons solo...spent a cold ass night on the glacier near Camp Sherman (Emmons Flats?) with all my clothes on in the same sleeping bag I later took on Denali...and was shivering! That was in July. Stumbled down the Inter Glacier in a whiteout...had no idea it was crevassed.
My first ascent was in a day up the Kautz route, highly recommended. We descended the DC in a partial white-out, and without the boot track we would have had to bivy until the white-out passed. Made a note to self never to go high on Rainier without minimal bivy gear for that reason (bivy sack, extra clothes, shovel, stove, food). I still follow this rule. If you go light and get in a white-out, better find those summit fumarole caves or burrr...
A few other ascents that were never simple gimmies...some in perfect shirt-sleeve weather and others in intense storms. That mountain never gets old.
Skied into the Carbon in winter and camped overlooking the massive Willis Wall...breathtaking! Can wait for Liberty Ridge, hopefully soon!
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jfs
Trad climber
Upper Leftish
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Nov 18, 2017 - 08:14pm PT
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For your first run up the only truly big peak in the lower 48 :-) stick to either the Emmons or the DC. Both are beautiful and challenging in their own right and you’ll get to see some amazing terrain that it sounds like you haven’t gotten to play in for a good long while. You should have a great time.
Yes, the DC will have a ton of traffic and is a bit too “manicured” by the guide services for some tastes. Those are both good reasons to “bail” over to the Emmons. Contrary to some posts above, the Emmons route is not maintained by anyone. A boot track does get stomped in during some parts of the summer but i’ve also seen that track get wiped out by one good storm. There are no ladders or fixed lines and probably no route wands.
The Kautz and Finger are both fun and likely wouldn’t present much difficulty in terms of their technicality. Your bigger issue is how committed you want to be on a big mountain where sometimes your best exit strategy is up and over into terrain you will not be familiar with. Buyer beware is all i’ll say.
Either way, the standard cautionary comments apply here. Your mountaineering skills should be dialed in before any trip up Rainier. That goes way beyond everybody’s favorite skill to think they’re way more competent at than they are, crevasse rescue. That IS an important skill but at LEAST as important are glacier and white out navigation. Navigation issues and poor conditions strand and kill climbers on Rainier with relative regularity. Routes on the upper mountain can also change week to week or day to day so even having an old GPS track is no guarantee. Have your tools and know how to use ‘em.
Rainier can get really rowdy really quickly. One anonymous internet brobrah’s spray-down of how piss-easy Rainier is doesn’t mean much when conditions get rough. That schizophrenic personality is part of what keeps things ... fun?
Check in with the rangers for route conditions the night before your climb. They’ll have good beta.
And if the weather is typical late July awesomeness ... then you’ll think all of that advice was silly. :-)
As with just about any moderate altitude general mountaineering objective, as long as conditions are good and nothing goes wrong, almost any fit and reasonably coordinated human can get up and down without too much trouble. Rainier is no different. In the end it’s just walking. Don’t fall off the mountain and don’t fall into the mountain. Don’t get lost. And don’t get (too) cold.
And have a blast.
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