Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Stambecco
Trad climber
italy
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2010 - 05:00am PT
|
Hi everyone. Following the Orco valley news, here you are a short suggestion where to practice trad climbing in Italy. Me, my friend Tarallo and other guys from Milan and surroundings found out this two crags in Ossola Valley, 1.5 hours driving north of milan. We cleaned the lines, bolted the rappels. That's it. Two crags, more than 40 lines (up to 45 mt - 140 ft) , from 5.7 to 5.13. More to be done, but in next spring. In case you are interested in, don't hesitate to contact us. Some of the topos on http://ossolaclimbing.org/node/293. Have fun
|
|
Luca Signorelli
Mountain climber
Courmayeur (Vda) Italy
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 05:07am PT
|
Ma guarda i posti dove si incontrano compatrioti... ;)
|
|
Fishy
climber
Zurich, Switzerland
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 08:26am PT
|
Good work guys! I will definitely take a look sometime!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 10:15am PT
|
I'm coming over but remember that I've reached an age where I use only one climbing command- "up rope, I'm not moving."
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 11:16am PT
|
Interesting photos. Thank you.
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 11:48am PT
|
really nice looking...loving the wide shots
|
|
go-B
climber
Matthew 25:40
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 11:56am PT
|
Molto bella!
|
|
Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 12:09pm PT
|
signori--
any pictures of rock climbing in the apuani? is it done? do they allow bolting in the quarries at carrara? (scherzo ...)
tonuccio, che anda' a viareggio talvolte.
|
|
Stambecco
Trad climber
italy
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2010 - 12:58pm PT
|
The spots are close but different
Cadarese is granit, thin texture, pretty short lines, but intense! A good introduction to jamming style.
FMJ (that stands for Full metal jacket) is gneiss, perfect and long cracks (35-45 mt), pretty rare holds. Perfect jamming technique is required.
Cadarese is almost always good, depending on the crags, only summer can be too hot.
The opposite for FMJ, from may till october, than it's hella cold! 1600 mt altitude, north east.
but you'd better ask Tarallo, our local crack master!
|
|
Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 01:41pm PT
|
1.5 hours north of milan is not close to the apuani, unless you're used to driving in wyoming.
|
|
Stambecco
Trad climber
italy
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2010 - 01:52pm PT
|
no, it's 5-6 hours far from the APUANE, that are in the direction of "caput mundi"
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 02:16pm PT
|
The third picture (l'amour toujours) looks like the Italian version of Midterm!
Bruce
|
|
Luca Signorelli
Mountain climber
Courmayeur (Vda) Italy
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 02:22pm PT
|
Just for the record, as I've mentioned www.gulliver.it in the Orco thread, besides being busy setting up new trad sector in the Ossola, Stambecco and his friend Tarallo are also busy fighting a pitched - actually several pitched - word battles with the above mentioned Defenders of the Bolt, sometimes on the issue of preserving the classic routes from retro bolting, but more than often in the even more crucial issue of the de-bolting of some great route of the past that was retro bolted years ago. More than anything this is the point that's keeping the discussion (and in some case the action) quite heated.
This is NOT an issue exclusive of Orco, and actually it was Ossola who saw some of the most bitter controversy this summer. Would be great if Stambecco would keep us up to date on this in the future.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
|
"Defenders of the Bolt," sounds like something from the Crusades or the Spanish Inquisition.
|
|
Luca Signorelli
Mountain climber
Courmayeur (Vda) Italy
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
|
@Donini: well, the tone used by some of them is close to that image... which makes the entire things even sadder, IMHO. I wouldn't never have believed to grow old to see a bunch of Italian climbers (some of them respected alpine climbers, btw) defending the use of bolts and the retro bolting of cracks on a what is - if you take that for face value - an ideological issue (namely, an anti-elitarian stance).
This said my humble opinion is that there are personal interests and antipathies fuelling the whole debate, but that's my own view.
|
|
Jobee
Social climber
El Portal Ca.
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 02:38pm PT
|
WOW, Looks steep and wonderful!
Awesome shots.
donini,
lol ..."up rope, I'm not moving" I'm not buying it!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
|
I'm going to Iran from 6/5 to 6/17 and then to Tajikistan for 2 or 3 weeks. Is July an okay time for the area? I could go there on my way home. Perhaps if the Defenders of the Bolt witnessed a silver haired alpinist of a certain vintage climbing sans bolts they would relent. Nah....people don't change opinions easily, but I could have fun and perhaps my wife could join me, she loves Italian wine and food.
|
|
adnix
Big Wall climber
Finland
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 03:09pm PT
|
Nice cracks! What is the altitude for the crag? Is there much snow in the winter?
|
|
tarallo
Trad climber
italy
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
|
the time is perfect and donini if you came you are my guest it will be an honour for me i need to learn some skills from a crack master...
and stambecco post some other pictures fmj is like the cookie..the best crack crag in italy
500 feet the altitude and there you can find delicious mushrooms for risotto.....crack wine and food the best mmmm may be i forgot something....
regarding bolts they are too stupid an example of thought is the following:
take a route like southern belle bolt it every 10 feet and then if you climb it clipping only the original bolts it is the same thing..or why this route is only for few people?we must bolt it so everybody can enjoy it
so at the end i think compared to these assh...the spanish inquisition was a play at a kindergarden
|
|
The Pres
Trad climber
Italy, Milan
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2010 - 04:23pm PT
|
Here are some more photos of the news cracks in the Ossola valley
I hope you enjoy!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!