Bachar-Yerian timelinep-who did which ascent and when

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Lloyd Campbell

Social climber
St. Cloud, MN
Sep 14, 2016 - 11:21am PT
Nice to see the B-Y still draws respect and admiration instead of the standard clamoring by the most recent climbing generations about how the route needs to be "upgraded to 'modern' standards of sport climbing".
duncan

climber
London, UK
Sep 14, 2016 - 12:01pm PT
Female ascentionists: Hazel Findlay, swung leads with Will Stanhope in October 2010.
klaus

climber
Slauson & Crenshaw
Sep 14, 2016 - 02:39pm PT
Erik Sloan can not free climb. Even if he were to add 1000 bolts to it he will never be able to free climb it.

Maybe he can power drill bolts to make an aid practice climb, like he did at Church Bowl, so even dwarfs can reach the bolts? That sounds like his style.
.
Rollover

climber
Gross Vegas
Sep 14, 2016 - 10:12pm PT

It seems Lynn Hill has climbed the route,
leading at least two pitches..
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Sep 14, 2016 - 10:28pm PT
Ron, Thanks for posting that up!

did he already do Peace?

Peace
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 14, 2016 - 10:48pm PT
It seems Lynn Hill has climbed the route,
leading at least two pitches..
She climbed the first 2 pitches and then bailed - see G_Gnome's post in the previous page of this thread.
Still, those are very serious pitches.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Sep 15, 2016 - 12:12am PT
I was surprised to read upthread that it wasn't until the 5th (?) ascent that it was first done no falls. Seems like a classical "the leader must not fall" route. I guess even the hardpeople get psyched out by big runouts and suspect knobs.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 15, 2016 - 01:13am PT
I was surprised to read upthread that it wasn't until the 5th (?) ascent that it was first done no falls.
I think you misunderstood a little.
The FA was without falls. [Edit: I was wrong: Bachar took a 50 foot fall when a knob broke above the 2nd bolt on p2. See posts below.]
And it had hangs on hooks to place the bolts on the first day. (Redpointed on day 2).
The next 2 on the list were attempts.
The 4th on the list was the second ascent.

1981,8,,1,John Bachar,Dave Yerian,"first ascent, over 3 days, no falls or hangs other than to place 4 of the bolts from hooks"
1982,,,attempt,Wolfgang Gullich,Thierry Renault,"Gullich fell 30' on p1, Renault fell 30' and 60' on p2"
1982,,,attempt,Alan Nelson,Rob Oravetz,"Oravetz fell on p2, ""Path of the Master"" article"
1983,,,2,Steve Schneider,Scott Frye,"Schneider led all pitches, no falls"
-----
duncan

climber
London, UK
Sep 15, 2016 - 04:38am PT
More milestones:

Alan Carne (55 years young) this year, Tom Briggs (17 years old) in the 90s. Any older or younger?
Jon Clark

climber
philadelphia
Sep 20, 2016 - 06:29pm PT


More milestones:

Alan Carne (55 years young) this year, Tom Briggs (17 years old) in the 90s. Any older or younger?

Nice to hear. I met Alan last October at Medlicott. My partner and I were headed up to climb You Asked For It and Alan was working the BY on TR solo. We were the only parties there that day.

Bachar did indeed fall on the FA when he broke a knob on the second pitch. According to his account in his Alpinist article it was a 50 foot fall.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 20, 2016 - 08:45pm PT
Jon,
Thanks for the correction. Cool article.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP26/first-ascent-bachar-yerian
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Sep 20, 2016 - 09:51pm PT
Jan did it at age 59, don't think either of the two fell, but he can add to that if he wants.
Jon Clark

climber
philadelphia
Sep 21, 2016 - 10:17am PT
Jan did it at age 59, don't think either of the two fell, but he can add to that if he wants.

I was under the impression from the Cole Gibson video that Andrew Rock led every pitch on their ascent. I was also under the impression that it was a no falls ascent for both climbers.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jul 28, 2018 - 06:39pm PT
well, just got a text from my son. Led all pitches of the B-Y this afternoon. That kid is the real deal.

From his text:


He (son John pictured here) actually looks a bit like John Bachar

Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Jul 28, 2018 - 08:04pm PT
Congrats to him! What a thing to do! I wonder what he thought of it..
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jul 28, 2018 - 10:25pm PT
"hard and scary". "12a". "tricky route finding"

He didn't get the onsight. Took a 20 footer when he got off the optimum path on the second pitch.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 28, 2018 - 10:39pm PT
Pretty strong and bold.

Fact - today’s ethics would credit Steve Schneider with the FA, with Bachar only having aiding it and placed the bolts.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jul 29, 2018 - 09:22am PT
Congratulations Mike Bolte, that is an amazing accomplishment for a young guy!
Stephen McCabe

Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
Jul 29, 2018 - 12:58pm PT
John Bolte's ascent was only one week after being blinded by a close encounter with a lightening bolt. This is what Mike Bolte wrote about John last week, "Call from John. Topped out on Conness up in the Yosemite high country to big thunder clouds this afternoon. Got down to where he thought he was OK when a lighting bolt(e) slammed in five feet from him. Blind and deaf for 30 minutes then hiked on out..."
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Jul 29, 2018 - 01:11pm PT
Mike, is this the same young man that you used to stop by for breakfast with at TPR?
Messages 101 - 120 of total 165 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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